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Ok, for those who remember, and for those who don't, the 76 Gl 1000 I now have sitting in my garage just about completely stripped. I just have to take the engine and the front fork off. Then I will start cleaning, checking, and rebuilding parts, before I put it all back together.
My first question is: I'm what some would call vertically challenged, I'm only about 5'7" and I know the seat height on the Gl are pretty high, now the rear shocks the bike had on when I got it were not the stock once, but they did have the tail end ridding a lot lower, which brought the seat hight down, Which I liked.
So my question has two parts and its related to smart ways of lowering the seat. First, is it ok to just get shorter rear shocks to bring the seat down, would that in any way mess with the whole operation of the shaft and rear wheel mechanism. I did notice the the rubber boot type thing that connects the drive shaft to the transmission was cracked on the top, probably partly due to the added stress on that area because the swing arm has be at a smaller angle to the floor. So any input on this area would be very helpful and appreciated. Second, what do you all recommend as for a nice and comfortable seat replacement, but one that will lower the seat hight. I just really aspire to be able to have both heals on the road, at a stop. Is that an unrealistic goal for someone of my height on a gl or can it be done without causing functional problems with the bike? Thanks
 

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Xuno, I don't have an answer for ya, but I'm almost in the same boat as you. I'm only 5'-7" with a 31" inseam, and I was pretty muchon tiptoes at stoplights on my stock '78...my problem was made worse due to driver floorboards.

Then I got a pair of decent riding boots and now my feet sit flat at stops, and I have no problem rocking the bike back n forth while waiting for the light to change. :action:I even feel comfortable with a passenger on the back (even if its my buddy who weighs twice what I do!).
 

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If you have the rear lowered already you could gain a little more by lowering the front . Just loosen the fork clam bolts and slide the forks out the top clamp 1" . Retorque the clamp bolts . The problem I see with lowering these bikes is that things start to scrape . Header pipes, side stand . You'll just have to try and see what works for you . I feel your concern as I am the same height .
 

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All you dang tall guys:dude::dude::dude::dude:



I am 5'5" with about a 29" inseam.The 31 inch seat height sucks but you figure it out eventually. There are shorter than stock rear shocks if you look for them. I run stock length.I did play with lowering the front but I did not like the handling differences. If youdecide to change that please spend some significant time in a parking lot. It is a dramatic difference in handling. I have a gunfighter on my"In-Town" bike and that helps some. On my Dressed bike I only get tip toes on the ground. Most of the time I can analyze the ground in parking situations and make allowances to keep myself out of trouble. Once in a while I will get in trouble at an unfamiliar stoplight that is very uneven and it can get touchy. Probably the biggest single thing I can recommend is lots and lots of parking lot time. I spendhours each month doing slow work in a empty parking lot.





Changing the alignment of the driveshaft will have impact on it's life I am sure, but I doubt that it would be significant for that small of an angle.
 

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Another way to lower the rear is to get a Lester aftermarket wheel. They came in 16 Inch and 18 Inch. The 16 will lower the rear a little. I have both sizes for my wing.
 

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the only time I had problems was with the aftermarket floor-boards (which I tossed)

SHORT PEOPLE UNITE!
 

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well thanks everyone, I think once I get to the rear shocks portion of the project I'll look into options.

Today I did see a fairly cheep pair of adjustable HD rear shocks, are there rules for what generally will or will not fit for the GL 1000.

I kind of want to avoid finding something fro a great deal and then figuring out it won't fit. so are there rules like only shocks that were meant for non american bikes work because they would be in in the metric system? Any thing general will help so it can help me narrow down my search, Thanks,

Oh boy, I have so much to ask but ill try to make different post to them. I'm great on working on stuff but when it comes to replacing one thing for the other I am completely lost as to what will work or what won't especially on bikes since this is my first major bike project, but thank for all the past and future help.
 

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Most bikes use a Eye to Eye mount system Not the GL1000.
 
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