Update: so i left the battery charging overnight on the tender and the i tried to start the bike again it would not even make a sound. lights on but nothing. I had swapped out the starter solenoid last night as i had an extra one. could my battery be not giving enough juice but still keep the lights on? or am i looking at the starter now?
76 GL1000 shutting off after removing choke
Hello everyone, so i just got this GL1000 about 2 weeks ago and rode about 30 miles on the highway to a mechanic for a general check because there was some oil leaking from the Valve cover and the idle was a little high so i just wanted to check things out for peace of mind. a few days later he comes back to me saying that the bike needs new Valve Stem seals and that that is what is causing the high idle and burning my oil. I decided to ahead and get this done myself and was ready to go pickup the bike. long story short i ended up towing the bike from the mechanic because i started the bike at full choke to warm up and it fired up right away, started to ride and no choke, came to a stop sign and the bike stumbled and shut off. turned it on again and it did the same. oil light comes on and shuts off. rode it back to the mechanic and states that it is the Valve Stem seals causing this and the bike would need to be repaired. With lost confidence in this guy i decided to tow it.
this is my very first vintage bike and one with a carburetor. my question is what could be causing this issue? the bike will stay just fine with full choke for warm up, the carb was rebuilt in 2015 and jets cleaned in 2021 by previous owner. Would broken valve seals really cause the bike to just shut off at idle? this is what seems really odd to me. i am changing the seals already this weekend but i have my doubts on whether this would even fix my issue.
any input would be greatly appreciated.
this is my very first vintage bike and one with a carburetor. my question is what could be causing this issue? the bike will stay just fine with full choke for warm up, the carb was rebuilt in 2015 and jets cleaned in 2021 by previous owner. Would broken valve seals really cause the bike to just shut off at idle? this is what seems really odd to me. i am changing the seals already this weekend but i have my doubts on whether this would even fix my issue.
any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Is it an aftermarket solenoid?
to be honest i do not know. I will check the box when i get home. i had an extra from the box of items that the previous owner gave me.Is it an aftermarket solenoid?
Aftermarket solenoids are often wired differently. Look up the details on this site.
The 1000 is a 2 wire solenoid so it doesn't matter.Aftermarket solenoids are often wired differently. Look up the details on this site.
Is the neutral light working? Did you try pulling in the clutch? Do you have a meter or test light and know how to use it?
yes the neutral light is working nd i have pulled clutch. i did use the meter on it, the battery measured 12.5-13 and the solenoid measured -12.5. I did kick start the engine to make sure i did not have something locked inside and it did fire up with choke but after a few minutes it just died down. i am going to be swapping the battery either today or tomorrow to officially rule out the battery. it just doesnt make sense to me as to why now it will not turnover without the kickstartThe 1000 is a 2 wire solenoid so it doesn't matter.
Is the neutral light working? Did you try pulling in the clutch? Do you have a meter or test light and know how to use it?
I had a Clymer Manual for my '77 Goldwing and I'm pretty sure there was a troubleshooting section; that may be a good place to start. It sounds like you may have multiple issues, but if you can kick-start it, it must be tuned up pretty well. The wiring is pretty basic on the GL1000, you should be able to follow the path of the current from the battery to the starter motor and test for power at every connection. Could be a loose or corroded connection causing your intermittent starting problem. If it starts, runs for a few minutes and then dies it could be that your gas cap is not venting or that the carb bowls are not filling up. Try running it with the cap loosened. If it dies after a few minutes immediately open a float bowl screw (just turn it several turns until it drips, don't remove it) and see if fuel comes out (you can lay a rag under the carb).
Test the yellow/red wire for power when you push the button and test the green/red for ground.yes the neutral light is working nd i have pulled clutch. i did use the meter on it, the battery measured 12.5-13 and the solenoid measured -12.5. I did kick start the engine to make sure i did not have something locked inside and it did fire up with choke but after a few minutes it just died down. i am going to be swapping the battery either today or tomorrow to officially rule out the battery. it just doesnt make sense to me as to why now it will not turnover without the kickstart
Paint could be , cardinal red or anteress candy red , , on my 76 , I find if you get a heat gun and warm up one intake rubber at a time , remove one intake elbow , remove the mixture screw and squirt cleaner and high pressure air it will clean the idle circuit , there is also air jets in the brass elbow they can be pulled out and cleaned , as a test if you screw in a mixture screw to the bottom and it makes no change that's no good . I also fitted a ignition relay and found the main earth lead connectors to have bad connection , I just had a big soldering iron and cooked out the crud with a bit of flux core, for my bike . Cheers.
That dude is obviously playing you. Anyway, it may not be the way it is anymore, but I would personally never take my bike to a greedy, lying, bike shop. I learned over the years most of them are basically liars and thieves. I had to educate myself on the matter, there was a heck of a learning curve, and I still continue to update my skills as required to take care of my own bikes. These days you've got a lot of help, like this Steve Saunders forum, YouTube videos, manuals, lots of Goldwing freaks happy to share what we've learned with each other, tools are relatively cheap these days, and anyway, who are ya gonna trust? Yourself. or that shyster down the road trying to get you to pay his bills? Like everybody else says I'd get to checking out fuel and air systems and if the bike sat up with regular gas in it, you may have some work to do. How's your fuel filter looking?Hello everyone, so i just got this GL1000 about 2 weeks ago and rode about 30 miles on the highway to a mechanic for a general check because there was some oil leaking from the Valve cover and the idle was a little high so i just wanted to check things out for peace of mind. a few days later he comes back to me saying that the bike needs new Valve Stem seals and that that is what is causing the high idle and burning my oil. I decided to ahead and get this done myself and was ready to go pickup the bike. long story short i ended up towing the bike from the mechanic because i started the bike at full choke to warm up and it fired up right away, started to ride and no choke, came to a stop sign and the bike stumbled and shut off. turned it on again and it did the same. oil light comes on and shuts off. rode it back to the mechanic and states that it is the Valve Stem seals causing this and the bike would need to be repaired. With lost confidence in this guy i decided to tow it.
this is my very first vintage bike and one with a carburetor. my question is what could be causing this issue? the bike will stay just fine with full choke for warm up, the carb was rebuilt in 2015 and jets cleaned in 2021 by previous owner. Would broken valve seals really cause the bike to just shut off at idle? this is what seems really odd to me. i am changing the seals already this weekend but i have my doubts on whether this would even fix my issue.
any input would be greatly appreciated.
PS - Pretty bike. You've got a great start there!That dude is obviously playing you. Anyway, it may not be the way it is anymore, but I would personally never take my bike to a greedy, lying, bike shop. I learned over the years most of them are basically liars and thieves. I had to educate myself on the matter, there was a heck of a learning curve, and I still continue to update my skills as required to take care of my own bikes. These days you've got a lot of help, like this Steve Saunders forum, YouTube videos, manuals, lots of Goldwing freaks happy to share what we've learned with each other, tools are relatively cheap these days, and anyway, who are ya gonna trust? Yourself. or that shyster down the road trying to get you to pay his bills? Like everybody else says I'd get to checking out fuel and air systems and if the bike sat up with regular gas in it, you may have some work to do. How's your fuel filter looking?
Often when it runs with the choke on and dies when you turn it off, that usually points to low speed jets being plugged. You might be in line for a carb rebuild, with the gas available these days it doesn't take long for an inactive bike to get those small orifices plugged up...fully or partially. I agree with the others...bad valve seals isn't the reason for the engine cutting off. The prior owner may have jacked up the idle to get the bike running, an effort to overshadow the low speed jet issue.
So I got the bike to start again, Issue was the battery. battery was reading the right numbers but i guess it just didnt have enough juice to turn it over. One problem solvedTest the yellow/red wire for power when you push the button and test the green/red for ground.
the PO did maintain the bike well and i honestly believe him, he kept every record with receipts of what hes done and an older retiree. before he brought me the bike he rode it 300 miles round trip and he showed me pictures. Soory for being a total noob as i have only had new bikes before, but what would i be looking for in the fuel filter?That dude is obviously playing you. Anyway, it may not be the way it is anymore, but I would personally never take my bike to a greedy, lying, bike shop. I learned over the years most of them are basically liars and thieves. I had to educate myself on the matter, there was a heck of a learning curve, and I still continue to update my skills as required to take care of my own bikes. These days you've got a lot of help, like this Steve Saunders forum, YouTube videos, manuals, lots of Goldwing freaks happy to share what we've learned with each other, tools are relatively cheap these days, and anyway, who are ya gonna trust? Yourself. or that shyster down the road trying to get you to pay his bills? Like everybody else says I'd get to checking out fuel and air systems and if the bike sat up with regular gas in it, you may have some work to do. How's your fuel filter looking?
First bike with carbs and according to the previous owner, the carbs were worked on in 2021 and was ridden about 7k miles since. Would this require a full on rebuild? If so, im going to need the full calvary here, any good videos on it? lolOften when it runs with the choke on and dies when you turn it off, that usually points to low speed jets being plugged. You might be in line for a carb rebuild, with the gas available these days it doesn't take long for an inactive bike to get those small orifices plugged up...fully or partially. I agree with the others...bad valve seals isn't the reason for the engine cutting off. The prior owner may have jacked up the idle to get the bike running, an effort to overshadow the low speed jet issue.
totally forgot to mention this (ive been so fantic trying to fix this) the "Mechanic" also left the petcock on the whole time he had it as i noticed it when i picked it up adn when i asked him he said that it didnt matter. i know i know this guy sucks. Maybe this is something that is contributing to my issue?
Soory for the late reply. I looked into the records of the bike but I dont see any paint codes.Hope you get it running, pretty bike. Do you know the color ? It's red I know but which red? I have one I'm about to paint and loved that color. Sounds like it may be running out of gas for several reasons. Rusty tank, bad gas, petcock problem, fuel pump or carbs. Good luck.
Leaving the petcock on shouldn't be an issue, but, you don't seem to be getting enough fuel, so it might be.
I really think you should;
take the hose off the petcock and then turn it on and to make sure there's plenty of fuel coming out;
then put the hose back on the petcock then disconnect it from the filter and check the flow;
put a new filter in the line then check the flow at the pump entry;
then at the pump exit; then at the T and again at the carbs.
All the while looking for pinched or kinked fuel hose.
I really think you should;
take the hose off the petcock and then turn it on and to make sure there's plenty of fuel coming out;
then put the hose back on the petcock then disconnect it from the filter and check the flow;
put a new filter in the line then check the flow at the pump entry;
then at the pump exit; then at the T and again at the carbs.
All the while looking for pinched or kinked fuel hose.
Sounds like the mechanic is way out there. Valve seals would usually show a small amount of blue smoke on startup. Other than that it has nothing to do with stalling. You may have some crud in one or more of the carbs. I would do a cleaning as a start. If you’re going to clean the carbs, be sure to use real carb cleaner and soak them for at least 24hrs. Then make sure all of the ports are clear especially the idle circuit and main jets.
yeah i guess thats what i get for trying to help a small business. since this is my first carbed bike i know 0 about carbs. if i am going to be removing and cleaning the carbs, am i going to be doing a rebuild of them or just opening them and seeing if there is anything stuck and just leaving the original parts in there?Sounds like the mechanic is way out there. Valve seals would usually show a small amount of blue smoke on startup. Other than that it has nothing to do with stalling. You may have some crud in one or more of the carbs. I would do a cleaning as a start. If you’re going to clean the carbs, be sure to use real carb cleaner and soak them for at least 24hrs. Then make sure all of the ports are clear especially the idle circuit and main jets.
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