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76 GL1000 shutting off after removing choke

4505 Views 119 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  DaveO430
Hello everyone, so i just got this GL1000 about 2 weeks ago and rode about 30 miles on the highway to a mechanic for a general check because there was some oil leaking from the Valve cover and the idle was a little high so i just wanted to check things out for peace of mind. a few days later he comes back to me saying that the bike needs new Valve Stem seals and that that is what is causing the high idle and burning my oil. I decided to ahead and get this done myself and was ready to go pickup the bike. long story short i ended up towing the bike from the mechanic because i started the bike at full choke to warm up and it fired up right away, started to ride and no choke, came to a stop sign and the bike stumbled and shut off. turned it on again and it did the same. oil light comes on and shuts off. rode it back to the mechanic and states that it is the Valve Stem seals causing this and the bike would need to be repaired. With lost confidence in this guy i decided to tow it.

this is my very first vintage bike and one with a carburetor. my question is what could be causing this issue? the bike will stay just fine with full choke for warm up, the carb was rebuilt in 2015 and jets cleaned in 2021 by previous owner. Would broken valve seals really cause the bike to just shut off at idle? this is what seems really odd to me. i am changing the seals already this weekend but i have my doubts on whether this would even fix my issue.

any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Since it was running when you took it to him it's not likely to need the carbs cleaned. Just get them adjusted right. Set all 4 mixture screws 2 turns out then try to get the idle speed set. They may need synchronized also.
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Since it was running when you took it to him it's not likely to need the carbs cleaned. Just get them adjusted right. Set all 4 mixture screws 2 turns out then try to get the idle speed set. They may need synchronized also.
yeah and according to the PO they were cleaned about a year ago. as far as doing the adjustments, should i go ahead and get the valve stems done first before digging in to the carbs? the compression was a little low
Since it was running when you took it to him it's not likely to need the carbs cleaned. Just get them adjusted right. Set all 4 mixture screws 2 turns out then try to get the idle speed set. They may need synchronized also.
should i also be taking a look at the fuel filter? or fuel pump?
Hope you get it running, pretty bike. Do you know the color ? It's red I know but which red? I have one I'm about to paint and loved that color. Sounds like it may be running out of gas for several reasons. Rusty tank, bad gas, petcock problem, fuel pump or carbs. Good luck.(y)
found notes from the PO and it says Brandy Wine
yeah and according to the PO they were cleaned about a year ago. as far as doing the adjustments, should i go ahead and get the valve stems done first before digging in to the carbs? the compression was a little low
Doesn't matter and the valve seals have nothing to do with compression.
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should i also be taking a look at the fuel filter? or fuel pump?
Of course.
Possible issues:
Mechanic reversed one or more plug wires when doing comp test.
Mechanic may have turned air jet screws on one or more carbs, increases or decreases air/gas mix. Should all be same turns out from stop.
Mechanic turned idle screw out either mistakenly or to make you think problem is getting worse. Should idle 900-1000 max. I keep mine at 950. Over 1000 activates idle air circuts and causes idle to shoot up.
P.o. may have screwed up and put jets back in when cleaning. Clymer manual has them reversed in older manuals.
I have manual on dropbox. if you want to p.m. me i can give you access.
Fuel pump may be dying. Pull hose going to carb and put in bucket, then try to cycle ignition and see if you get flow. I have a new one on my shelf if you need, p.m. me if you need, i will be putting it on ebay with a bunch of other wing stuff in a couple weeks, but we can work something out.
Dead or dying battery can cause it to die, but thats usually associated with dead stator. I would install a digital volt meter to make sure you are charging.

All in all, you took it in for small leak in valve cover. That would be an easy fix by slightly tightening the bolts on the valve cover or new seal. It really spunds to me like mechanic is trying to fleece you. There are not too many mechanics that know and can work on these old wings. Its usually us owners that have to do our own work.
Good luck, keep us posted and welcome.
Im sure others will disagree with one or more of my points, im discussing from what ive learned over the years and my recent restore of my 76.
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One more thing, try running sea foam through gas or carb cleaner through airbox. I prefer sea foam, like carb cleaner, it works to clear out venturies that may have gotten a little gummy over winter, but in my own opinion i feel its safer than carb cleaner.
One more thing, try running sea foam through gas or carb cleaner through airbox. I prefer sea foam, like carb cleaner, it works to clear out venturies that may have gotten a little gummy over winter, but in my own opinion i feel its safer than carb cleaner.
I'm sorry but carb cleaner or whatever through the air box does absolutely nothing. And please don't try to tighten valve cover screws, they only go in so far and have a shoulder to stop them. Tightening will only result in breaking them or stripping the threads.
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UPDATE: Got a new battery in and it will turn on now but still shutting off after removing choke. i removed the radiator yesterday to start the work on replacing the Valve Stems and i also checked the Spark Plugs. i have attached photos of how they look.
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yeah i guess thats what i get for trying to help a small business. since this is my first carbed bike i know 0 about carbs. if i am going to be removing and cleaning the carbs, am i going to be doing a rebuild of them or just opening them and seeing if there is anything stuck and just leaving the original parts in there?
First do everything Dennis and Bike suggested. He is right on. Everything that's happening to you, especially the shop, is part of the learning curve and experience. Biker's Creed, right? After a while you won't want anyone touching your bike. And that's a really nice bike you've got there.
First do everything Dennis and Bike suggested. He is right on. Everything that's happening to you, especially the shop, is part of the learning curve and experience. Biker's Creed, right? After a while you won't want anyone touching your bike. And that's a really nice bike you've got there.
I’m going to be checking fuel pump, filter and petcock once I finish swapping out the Valve Stems. Should be done with that this weekend. I’m really hoping it’s just the filter or something like that and not anything on the carbs. I just don’t think that the carbs are at issue since it was running before dropping it off. I’m taking care of the stems first as the right side had sputtering exhaust so new stems, oil and spark plugs
UPDATE: started removing the cams for the replacement of the Stem Seals and the pulley would just not come off of the rocker so I just decided to remove the pulley along with the rocker. Did I royal screw up here? I kept it in the relative same place and when reinstalling I recall reading that I can just bring it back to align the arrows on the pulley to make sure it’s timed well. Please let me know
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Thats the way ive always done them but i would fit new belts and check tensioners
Thats the way ive always done them but i would fit new belts and check tensioners
Nice thanks for the relief. The belts are basically new as the PO swapped them 8 months ago and tension was perfect
Not sure why you would remove the cams but make sure to put them back close to alignment so you don't have to turn them far and risk bending a valve.
Not sure why you would remove the cams but make sure to put them back close to alignment so you don't have to turn them far and risk bending a valve.
Every video I have seen has had them removing the cams but then I read one where he did not so when I couldn’t remove them cam I just went ahead and removed it all together. Looking back, yeah it makes no sense in removing them.
Maybe he did put belts on but for the cost i would still buy new
UPDATE: Progress! so this weekend I tackled replacing the Valve Stem Seals, Fuel Filter, Coolant, Oil & Filter, Valve Clearance and Spark Plugs. I finally got the bike to run and stay on while idling so i would say that i am back to where i was when i got the bike before i took it to that crook. that being said, the bike on the right side still sputters and backfires as when i rode it around the block on first gear it would keep back firing. i also noticed that it would sound choked and make a rattling sound when i would blip the throttle, mainly coming from the left side. ill try and post a video here
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