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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know where i can get the "dogbone" fuse harness? I am having no luck finding it.
Alternately, can someone give me a picture that clearly shows how it is wired? For the life of me I can't seem to get anything but a click from the solenoid. And the original wiring looks crispy so I want to replace it. I have a new solenoid on order.
Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You might try Honda GL1000 Restoration Specialist - Randakk's Cycle Shakk if they don't have it you may have to settle for a blade fuse. If you are getting a click from the solenoid though & lights working the fuse is probably not your problem.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, Randakks was my first stop. They dont have it. I do have the wishbone replaced with a 30A blade fuse. The problem is Im not sure its wired correctly. I do have all lights working, and when I turn ignition on the solenoid clicks. Then when I hit start button it (solenoid) clicks, but I get nothing. I did notice the wire into the white connector is cooked so was looking to replace that. the connector is on its way. Also had a starter delivered (new, not rebuilt) and a new solenoid on the way. My main concern is that the solenoids dont have markings which terminal goes to starter and which to battery.
 

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It should not click when you turn the ignition on. Probably is wired wrong. Never seen one that didn't have markings for the battery and motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It should not click when you turn the ignition on. Probably is wired wrong. Never seen one that didn't have markings for the battery and motor.
Ive got 3 solenoids, none marked, including the new one, lol. Ill swap posts and hope thats it. thanls for the ongoing information.
 

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Ive got 3 solenoids, none marked, including the new one, lol. Ill swap posts and hope thats it. thanls for the ongoing information.
I'll bet the wiring on the top connector is wrong. The aftermarket ones are always different.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
update: I tested the new starter and solenoid, both work correctly on "bench test". Also tested for power to wire to starter. what i find is that when i hit start button i get power 12+V to the wire, however, power does not stop to wire when I release start button. Cleaned button contact with electrical cleaner with no change.

So, I turn on key, no power to start wire to starter. Then I hit start button and get 12+V to starter wire. release button and still getting 12+V to starter wire. Any ideas?
 

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OK, does yours have a 2 wire solenoid with the main fuse seperate or a 4 wire with the fuse attached?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
it is 2 wire. I did some more checking and found the kill switch ( disassembled it, big mistake, lol) was corroded. Ordered a new oem one. by the time im done this whole bike will be new, lol. I also will swap the diode by the main fuseblock with a spare, that was suggested elsewhere. Since this bike will go to my son when it is completed, I feel better replacing anything that doesnt seem to be perfect, so he doesnt have to mess with it. Will update when the switch comes in and is installed.
Thanks for all the assistance.

Ive restored 3 of these Wings, the 78 in my avatar, the 76 Im currently re-restoring and an 81.
I also have a 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade. The Cade is much easier to work with even though I have to pull off almost all the plastic body to do anything to it, lol.
 

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I would have strapped the kill switch and done away with it
 

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it is 2 wire. I did some more checking and found the kill switch ( disassembled it, big mistake, lol) was corroded. Ordered a new oem one. by the time im done this whole bike will be new, lol. I also will swap the diode by the main fuseblock with a spare, that was suggested elsewhere. Since this bike will go to my son when it is completed, I feel better replacing anything that doesnt seem to be perfect, so he doesnt have to mess with it. Will update when the switch comes in and is installed.
Thanks for all the assistance.

Ive restored 3 of these Wings, the 78 in my avatar, the 76 Im currently re-restoring and an 81.
I also have a 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade. The Cade is much easier to work with even though I have to pull off almost all the plastic body to do anything to it, lol.
The kill switch or the diode won't have anything to do with the starting problem. Check if it still getting power on the yellow/red wire after you let off the kill switch.
 

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Understand that entirely,
my 2002 is going to my son in June after NASR 13
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have some great news! The new OEM kill switch arrived last night. I did a quick swap without wiring it all the way in. I now have full power, switch activated starter and stopped powering it when the switch button was released! So now comes the fun of making sure the new dyna is set correctly, adding some gas, seafoam and antifreeze and firing this puppy up!!! This is as close to running as it has been in almost 10 years! Very excited right now!! Thanks again for all the help with this, will post more as she is going back together.
 

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I have some great news! The new OEM kill switch arrived last night. I did a quick swap without wiring it all the way in. I now have full power, switch activated starter and stopped powering it when the switch button was released!
Good news, I just have no clue how the kill switch could be responsible for your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i also had swapped out the diode, so that may have actually been it, unless I reswap ill never know, lolol. Im gonna move forward.:giggle::giggle:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i also had swapped out the diode, so that may have actually been it, unless I reswap ill never know, lolol. Im gonna move forward.:giggle::giggle:

ok, wierd new update. So today I decided to try to swap the diode that I had swapped, just to see if that was the issue. Last night I had turned her on to check the turn signals, and was working fine. today I reswapped the good (i thought) diode with the one I had replaced. hit start button and got the same problem i had before, constant power to starter, even after turning switch off. Tried putting the one i think is good back in and nowthis one os doing the same thing...Then I checked the battery and could not get a reading with the meter. nothing. I disconnected negative terminal and then was able to get reading of 10.5. Note this is a battery tender battery, brand new. With negative terminal on the battery tender charger wont charge. with it disconnected the battery is charging. WTF!????
 

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OK, I get it now, the diode in the ignition system is either shorted or backward causing power to be sent to the starter relay any time the key is on. I just don't see how it could continue when the switch is off. You must have a large drain going on killing the battery, probably related. Disconnect the yellow/red wire to the starter relay and see if the battery drain goes away.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK, I get it now, the diode in the ignition system is either shorted or backward causing power to be sent to the starter relay any time the key is on. I just don't see how it could continue when the switch is off. You must have a large drain going on killing the battery, probably related. Disconnect the yellow/red wire to the starter relay and see if the battery drain goes away.
Yeah, even with ignition switch off, it tried to start. funny thing is, had full power last night when checking the turn signals. ignition switch was working correctly last night . battery has been fine this whole time. ill try what you reccomend tonight when i get off work. could the new solenoid be doing something here? right now it is charging with the negative terminal disconnected. I should have stated this before, I jdid yesterday put a new 2 plug connector block on (the one the dogbone fuse assembly wires into above the battery. Could I have accidently reversed the wires? If so, why didnt I have this problem last night?
 
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