[DaveO430]

Those red wires don't matter which one is connected to which. Check if there is power on that yellow/red wire with the key off, disconnected, both ends, it shouldn't.

 

[Wingleader76]

Hi Dave,
I checked and the yellow red wire has power with key off and negative battery terminal disconnected, on the upper end. I pulled the associated diode and checked there as well. it has power to the left blade, again, battery negative disconnected. Dont know if it mattered, but also checked where kill switch connects to main harness. no power there. What next? Do I just rout a new wire from the connector at rear to the diode?

 

[DaveO430]

Hi Dave,
I checked and the yellow red wire has power with key off and negative battery terminal disconnected, on the upper end. I pulled the associated diode and checked there as well. it has power to the left blade, again, battery negative disconnected. Dont know if it mattered, but also checked where kill switch connects to main harness. no power there. What next? Do I just rout a new wire from the connector at rear to the diode?

Are you sure there is not another battery somewhere? No possible way there is power with the battery disconnected. Or do you have your tester connected to the battery - while doing this?

 

[DaveO430]

You have to do these tests with the battery connected.

 

[Wingleader76]

You have to do these tests with the battery connected.

Uh, no, no other battery. when i tested i held positive lead from ohmmeter to the wire and negative lead to battery negative.

 

[Wingleader76]

So went out and hooked up negative terminal to redo tests, thinking "soon as I hook negative cable itll try to start. It didnt. Then I pushed start button and it turned over like normal. I was like "GREAT!!". then I realized the diode was still out. soon as i plugged diode in it started turning over, had to disconnect negative battery terminal to get it to stop....
Also, the starter was engaging with the solenoid DISCONNECTED at the connectors! AND with the diode REMOVED!!!
So im at a loss.
What the heck could be feeding power to the starter??? Why did it seem to work tonight when I hooked up the negative battery terminal, but try to engage starter as soon as I put the diode in? with ignition key off, solenoid disconnected from the 2 leads which lead to the diode?

 

[Wingleader76]

So went out and hooked up negative terminal to redo tests, thinking "soon as I hook negative cable itll try to start. It didnt. Then I pushed start button and it turned over like normal. I was like "GREAT!!". then I realized the diode was still out. soon as i plugged diode in it started turning over, had to disconnect negative battery terminal to get it to stop....
Also, the starter was engaging with the solenoid DISCONNECTED at the connectors! AND with the diode REMOVED!!!
So im at a loss.
What the heck could be feeding power to the starter??? Why did it seem to work tonight when I hooked up the negative battery terminal, but try to engage starter as soon as I put the diode in? with ignition key off, solenoid disconnected from the 2 leads which lead to the diode?

Ok, so i looked at one of the spare solenoids..and what is the green wire on the one i have installed does not match what should be the green on the spare. You had mentioned earlier that the plugs on aftermarket solenoids are almost always wrong. Would THAT cause my problems? Nope, wired the spare in with no change, switched connectors, no change.

 

[DaveO430]

Ok, so i looked at one of the spare solenoids..and what is the green wire on the one i have installed does not match what should be the green on the spare. You had mentioned earlier that the plugs on aftermarket solenoids are almost always wrong. Would THAT cause my problems? Nope, wired the spare in with no change, switched connectors, no change.

I was thinking of the 4 wire solenoids used on later models. The 2 wire can't be wired wrong. The starter must be drawing too much current causing the solenoid contacts to stick.

 

[Wingleader76]

I was thinking of the 4 wire solenoids used on later models. The 2 wire can't be wired wrong. The starter must be drawing too much current causing the solenoid contacts to stick.

Ok, so how do I find where the power is coming from? Ive tried both solenoids with same issue. Checked harness as best I could last night, no signs of melt or breaks anywhere i could see. I dont understand how im getting power with key off, solenoid disconnected etc. Tried tapping solenoid, no change. What the heck is causing the power?? Im frustrated with this girl. Really want to get her running correctly so I can send it to my son. It has to be right. He wouldnt be able to diagnose much if he gets into trouble with it...\
Almost ready to try to find a new OEM wire harness if you know of anywhere that sells them. Just not sure it would solve anything at this point.
So far have changed starter (new), solenoid (new) regulator/rectifier (new) kill switch (new) battery (new). driving me to drink she is...

 

[DaveO430]

If the solenoid stays engaged with the wires disconnected it can't be anything else.

 

[Wingleader76]

If the solenoid stays engaged with the wires disconnected it can't be anything else.

Ok, thanks. I was just thinking that. Both silenoids are aftermarket. Going to order OEM tonight when I get home. Should have done this in the first place. Thanks again, will update when done.

 

[AZgl1800]

do you have manual so you can trace the wiring?

 

[Wingleader76]

do you have manual so you can trace the wiring?

do you have manual so you can trace the wiring?

I do, not sure where it is but also have digital on my dropbox. Been using to trace headlamp bucket wiring.

 

[Wingleader76]

Could not find an OEM solenoid that wasnt from Indonesia. I have one coming from Ricks Electric. That the best i could find....