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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi again!

I am working on my Gl1000, and it runs fine. However, it does have an uneven idle when warm, and the temperature varies a bit, but it's always within the white field on the gauge when riding (though it does go to the far end of it sometimes). When I start it, it often (but not always) smokes a lot, but this is just when I start it and it stops right after that. It happens at both hot and cold start.

When I parked the bike yesterday, I head a sizzling sound and I saw it was the #2 carb leaking fuel, dripping onto the engine and boiling. It stopped a short while after I stopped the engine, but as you can see on the photo, It looks like it has been leaking for a while. On the engine, the paint has disappeared where the fuel drops.

The PO did a complete overhaul on the carbs using Randakk's parts, and he does seem like a trustworthy guy so I think he did it properly. Still, the leak is there. How should I go about this? I've pulled the carbs off the bike now, but I don't want to do anything wrong. I looked in the air intake and there was no fuel there, not even while running (I did not run it warm though, just a couple of minutes idle). The air filter does however have some fuel in it, and the PO said he changed it when doing the carbs.

Just to check, I took out the spark plugs. There is quite a difference between #1 and the rest, what might be the cause here? (on the photo, the plugs go left to right from #4, #3, #2, #1) I'm using NGK D8EA. I checked the plugs while turning the engine, and they all spark. I think I would have noticed if one cylinder didn't fire? Could this be related to the carbs? I just replaced the ignition with a Dyna S, if that matters.

As I said, it runs good but I'm worried about the carb leaking. And if it is related to the uneven idle and smoking, it would be great to sort it out.

Hope some of you guys can help me out here.
 

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I'm thinking that the leaking carb bowl is a minor issue as that plug looks oil fouled...
 

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1993 gl1500, 1976 gl1000
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Seems to be leaking above the bowl gasket. Check to see if the intake boot clamp is tight. I agree that the plug is oil fouled. Two different problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your reply. I checked the intake boot clamp, it's tight. I also checked the o-ring on the drainage screw and the bowl gasket. They both look good. I replaced some of the screws holding the bowl in place and tightened them some more. It's still leaking, but not so much.

So the carb leaking and fouled plug is not related, I thought so (though it would have been great to fix everything in one swoop!). I just did a head job and changed all the gaskets, so I don't think the valves are an issue. Maybe it's the piston rings?

I'm monitoring the oil level and it looks steady, although it will take a while to notice anything if it's leaking I guess. I can't see any water or coolant in it either. The coolant is not leaking either.

I'll do a compression test once I get the tools for it, maybe that'll get me on the right track.
 

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The bowl could be warped from over tightening and the float level may be too high.
 

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When the bowls are put back on, it's easy to get the bowl slightly out of alignment and not seal the way it should. There is a black "u" shaped piece that holds the main and primary jets which rests on the bottom of the bowl. It should have just a little flex to hold the jets. Too much bend, and the screws for the bowl cannot press it into place.

If you use a Philips bit, or better a JIS bit in a small vise grip, you may be able to check their tightness without removing the whole set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the tips guys! I'll check it out. @ekvh, I have to take the carb unit off again to check it right? If this U-shaped thing is inside the bowl I mean.

I did a compression test yesterday, the results for te cylinder were:

#1: 150 psi (170 after I poured some oil in)
#2: 160 psi (170 psi)
#3: 165 psi (175 psi)
#4: 160 psi (170 psi)

As you can see all the cylinders get a higher reading after I put some oil in, and the cylinder with the oily plug has the biggest change (#1). I did the test when the engine was cold and the throttle fully open. This might be off-topic (not a carb problem), but should I change all the piston rings? Anyone got a good site for getting those in that case?

Regards
 

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You should always check the compression when fully warmed up. Your compression readings are very good. Testing it with the engine fully warmed up will reduce the amount the readings change when putting the oil in the cylinders, or should anyway. If it was me, I'd check the float settings, get rid of the leak and ride it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@LarryC Thanks for the advice, I just re-did the compression test and as you said, the readings were a bit different.

#1: 155 (160)
#2: 150 (155)
#3: 155 (155)
#4: 150 (155)

So they are all quite close. Maybe the piston rings are not at fault for the oily plug?

I'll look into the float settings.
 
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