[Gearhead76]

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I got my bike running last weekend synced the carbs, I just can't get her to idle right, If I have the Idle down She Idles at about 500 rpm just barley keeping going, Hit the gas theres a little hesetation the first time, but after that you can rev it up no problems, flyes down the road great, and the Idle returns to 500 rmp at stop signs, But It barely keeps running,

If I turn the Idle up a little bit so it idles at about 900 rpm, It idles good, great take off no problems until I come up to a stop then she Idles at 2000 - 2500 rpm for quite awhile before returning to normal idle.

I've cleaned the carbs, synced them, I've sprayed carb clean around thecarbs looking for leaks but haven't found any, None of the linkage is binding,



So If you guys have any Ideas please let me know, The bikes sat for about 5 years before I got her, I've only put about 50 miles on it, Is it something I should worry about or should I just put more miles on her and see what happens

 

[johnmac]

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When I bought my 85 1200 it had been sitting for 2 years. I had to turn
the idle up so it would not die. Then I noticed it would stay revved up
when I shifted gears, making it sound like I didn't know how to ride
the bike. I added some fuel system cleaner to the gas, a bit stronger
than the bottle said. (A bit, not a lot!) It was slow, but I noticed
the idle getting faster. When I turned the idle back down, the revving
between gears stopped, and it ran more like it should. It sounds to me
like you still have some crud in the carbs. You might try something
like Sea Foam in the gas. It may save from pulling the carbs again!

 

[Gearhead76]

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I cleaned the carbs out good pulled them all apart and used carb dip, Really cleans them up good, I cleaned out all the passages with compressed air, carb clean, and a small guitar string, I did put some sea foam it the tank yester day, so I'll ride it and see what happens,

 

[Frenchy]

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Did you replace the O-rings on the air cut off valve? A vacuum leak can cause such a problem.:?

 

[Gearhead76]

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No I didn't replace the orings on the air cut off valve, but I sprayed around with carb cleaner and it didn't change the idle

 

[77GL1]

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I'd make sure it is fully warmed up before setting the idle...only a possibility that you might've done already.

 

[Gearhead76]

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I did warm it up before I synced it and set idle,

I took her for a 50 mile ride today, Rides great down the road, but at about every stop sign it would idle around 2000 rpm, or It would die down to almost nothing,

If I push down on the carb linkages ( any of them) the idle dies way down, let go and it rather stays there or comes back up to 2000rpm.

All the linkages move free, and I have the free play in the throttle that I'm suppose to,

I'm confused:?, Any Ideas or should I take the old girl out back and shoot her:gunhead:. Just kidding, I just got her going and want to fix her up.

 

[77GL1]

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Mine's done this once or twice and I found the timing off a tad. I'm having hell with the points, but that's another story...I'll be glad to put the DynaS back in.

 

[Gearhead76]

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I can't stand points either, Mine had the dynas ingnition on it when I got the bike, Saved me some bucks.

 

[markgaeth]

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Gearhead,



The way you are describibg the concern may call for you to check the mechanical advancer. I my days of wrenching on the Wings sometimes the advancer would be gummed up and not return to properly. Remove the ignition plate and then remove the advancer. Remove the lobe cam and clean &polish the inner lobe surface as well as the advance shaft. Relube the fitting surface with a film of light oil such as sewing machine oil. Also check the advancer springs are not weak or worn as they may not cause the weights to be pulled back in properly.

Another thing to look at is the carb slides themselves. These slides had a habit of hanging up in the slide cap and not returning to full closed state. Polish the slide and caps with a very fine crocus cloth and then clean completely any debris from polish. Sometimes the spring in the slide was weak and needed a little stretching to give it more "push" to close the slide and needle. Sometimes I found that the spring was not even in there as someone forgot to reinstall after they had the cards apart. Whoops!

One last thing you can do is remove the throtthe cable off the carb and rev the engine without the cables to verify the cable linkage is not the problem. If with the cable remove and it is still hanging then you must look for binding in the linkage. Many times the concern with the linkage is with a nut that is too tight causeing the linkage to bind.

Good luck with you quest and keep us updated as you proceed. Your concern may be one or all of the above but only do one thing at a time and test to verify if corrected or if concern still exists.

Mark Gaeth

Decatur, IN

 

[granguzzloveswings]

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hi

have you cheked the gas level on the carbs?

 

[Gearhead76]

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no I haven't, I'm in the process of rebuilding the carbs again, this time I bought the carb kits, just waiting for the air cut off kit to arrive.

 

[Frenchy]

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Do you have both the A & B throttle cables????? I've run into this being a bit of a problem as well. The carbs partially relay on you pulling them back.

 

[Gearhead76]

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I have a push and pull cable, cranking it closed doesn't help, I have to touch the throttle linkage and push it down to slow the idle, but it returns to about 2000 rpm when I let off.