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Ok I've rebuilt the carbs, cleaned out all the passages for the third time:gunhead:, replaced all jets and orings, set my floats at 21mm,rebuilt the air cut off valve, synced the carbs, Said a little prayer and she still Idles goofy.:stumped:

When you start it with the choke on she runs at about 1500-2000 rpm, turn the choke off she Idles about 1000 rpm, Drive it down the road she runs great all kinds of power and no hesitations, come up to a stop sign, and It will idle at about 2000 rpm forever, let outon the clutch a little, and it will drop Idle down to about 500 rpm pull the clutch in and it says there or drops down rpm and dies,

I don't want to rip the carbs off again ( even though I'm getting really good at it)

So any Ideas or I'm just going to ride it as is, Just have to play with the trottle and clutch a little at stop signs, I can do that, :stumped::baffled::gunhead::X:(:?:crying:
 

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Everything you list relates to fuel. One more thing -- is your tank rusted inside?

What about electrical? How's your coil output? Are you getting strong spark? Are you on points or electronic ignition? Electrical is a weak link on these bikes. Have you check for resistance at the plug wires/caps. Sounds like weak spark, causing erratic idle.
 

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I've got very similar problems with my '76 CB836F, which I've tuned out to a great degree, but it turned out to be a tiny little crack in the part of the carb casingwhere the atomizer screws into the bottom of the carb. I would've never seen it accept that I was holding the carb at an odd angle whill spraying WD40 thru it to make sure the bleeder wasn't clogged. This MAY NOT have anything to do with your problem, but I thought I'd relay the experience anyway.

I'd also consider testing the intakes for leaks (if you haven't already) and take a good look at the plenum....


What EXACTLY, do each of your Sync gauges read?
 

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Gearhead76 wrote:
Ok I've rebuilt the carbs, cleaned out all the passages for the third time:gunhead:, replaced all jets and orings, set my floats at 21mm,rebuilt the air cut off valve, synced the carbs, Said a little prayer and she still Idles goofy.:stumped:

When you start it with the choke on she runs at about 1500-2000 rpm, turn the choke off she Idles about 1000 rpm, Drive it down the road she runs great all kinds of power and no hesitations, come up to a stop sign, and It will idle at about 2000 rpm forever, let outon the clutch a little, and it will drop Idle down to about 500 rpm pull the clutch in and it says there or drops down rpm and dies,

I don't want to rip the carbs off again ( even though I'm getting really good at it)

So any Ideas or I'm just going to ride it as is, Just have to play with the trottle and clutch a little at stop signs, I can do that, :stumped::baffled::gunhead::X:(:?:crying:
Gearhead76, the first thing that comes to mind is sticking or mis-adjusted throttle cables. The only thing there is that shouldn't be so clutch/load related (but it's possible).

The other thing that comes to mind is a vacuum related function like "air cut-off valve or "vacuum advance".. In either case you could be coming up to an idle at high vacuum (higher RPM's),, then once you let the clutch out a little & load the engine the vacuum could drop below the operation threshold of either the vacuum advance (therefore losing ign advance & dropping the base idle) or air cut-of valve (therefore changing the pilot mixtures).

I suppose it's also possible to have low power to the ignition coils & as long as the idle is high it adds enough charging system voltage to the coils to operate correctly & once the RPM's drop (due to clutch load) so does the coil's supply voltage. That would be easy to monitor by placing a voltmeter on the coil's supply terminal.

Do you get good (& even) control adjustment on all the pilot jet needles? Are they all set close to the same?

Twisty
 

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How many miles on the bike ?

CV carbs right ?

I'd suspect a hanging vacuum piston, what did they look like when you had the carbs apart (scuffed, clean)?

The older Wings all had this problem and some ofthe 1100's had the pistons replaced with coated ones.

If that isn't the issue, I'd also suspect a vacuum leak, check around the throttle shaft. You can spray carb cleaner at suspect areas while the bike is running and warm, if there's a leak the idle will change.
 

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Yes, definitely check for vacuum leaks.
 

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I would definitely check for vacuum leaks as everyone has said. Being that you've had the carbs on and off so much, did you remember to tighten the intake boot clamps? I forgot those once!:shock:
 

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One more thing, if you back out the idle screw does the idle go down and is there a little play in the throttle?
 

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The bikes got 44,000 miles on it.

I put about 100 miles on between yesterday and today, No change in Idle, But if I let the clutch out a little to get the idle to drop then hit the trottle a little to keep it running then she'll run at around 800 rpm all by her self and stay their, If I turn the Idle up I doesn't want to return at all just keeps climbing up to the 2000 rpm area, Turn it down and It dies at idle.

I have dyna electronic ignition, I static checked the timing with a test light, I don't have the timing plug to do it while its running. good blue spark on all four cylinders, New coils wires and plug boots, New throttle cables that move good With a little play like your suppose to have, all linkage on carb is free and returns to closed like it should, I can push on the linkages and it doesn't change the idle, so they are closing like they should,

I've sprayed carb cleaner all around the carbs while they were running, didn't make a difference, so no leaks there, Choke cable is off all the way. The vacuume pistons I polished and they slide nice, you blow in the bottom and they move great.

The idle screws are all between 1 1/2 and 2 turns out, If I turn them outor in theIdle goes down, I adjusted those when syncing the carbs. The gauges were all at 14 with the bike and 1200 rpm, thats with the mercury syncronizer.

Alternatorputs out about 13.8 at Idle and 14.4 at 2000 rpm, so that should be good.
:goofygrin:I think I've tried just about everything,
 

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Mine did the same thing to a point. It idles pretty steady now... only thing I did was replace the battery. May have had something to do with it - don't know.Guess I also replaced the plug caps at the same time.

I also noticed that when I filled at certain gas stations it would do it, and if I ran regular instead of mid-grade it would do it. I knowthat some people say these bikes run great on regular, but experience with my biketells meto put the mid-grade in. Mine doesn't like Chevron gas, but likes Shell for some reason.

When I'm on multi-day trip it doesn't care what gas I put in. Theyseem to do better when ridden a lot.
 

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I'll try some different gas and see I've been running reg, in it but I'll try some premium and see what that does.



Thanks guys for all the advice
 

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Have done nothing :baffled:different but today she seemed to Idle alright, a little slow returning to idle but would sit and idle at around 900 rpm real good, hopefully it stays that way.:cooler:
 

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Hi Gearhead,

I just discovered this forum and got registered. I am not that goodwith English, but may be it is good enough that I can get you a hint with your idle set up.

I have rebuild myGL1000/78 a while ago and ended up just like you. I cleaned the carbs replaced needels, seals and the pilot valves as well. Finally I adjusted the carbs as described in the different manuals, but nothing. I read what you have done so far and it looks like your carbs and your intakes are seal.

Ichecked in the Clymer manual the table FUEL SYSTEMSPECIFICATIONS and adjusted the pilot valves in accordance with the table for the 78s and turned the pilot srew 1 1/2 out. Just to make the long story short, it did not work. I solved my problem using the settings for the 77s turning the pilot screw 2 1/2 out .It worked! May be thats what you have to try as well.

Settings by Clymer

75 1 3/8

76 2

77 2 1/2

78 1 1/2

79 2



Good luck.:weightlifter:
 

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If I set the idle around 850 rpm she returns to idle nice, runs a bit rough at that speed but if I turn the idle up a 1/4 turn then she'll rev up to 2000 rpm at stop signs, So I thinks I'll just live with the low Idle, besides that she runs great.

Thanks for all the Ideas guys, Happy ridding
 

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The setting that I mentioned is not the idle adjustment to be done on the idle adjustment srew. You need to adjust the pilot screw for the idle mixture on each carburator separately. Turn eache completely down. Carefully, do not tighten it. Then turn each one out as mentioned in the table.

You might have to readjust the idle screw later then, probably to lower the idle rpm.

Good luck.
 

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Gearhead76 wrote:
I have dyna electronic ignition, I static checked the timing with a test light, I don't have the timing plug to do it while its running. good blue spark on all four cylinders, New coils wires and plug boots, New throttle cables that move good With a little play like your suppose to have, all linkage on carb is free and returns to closed like it should, I can push on the linkages and it doesn't change the idle, so they are closing like they should,

I've sprayed carb cleaner all around the carbs while they were running, didn't make a difference, so no leaks there, Choke cable is off all the way. The vacuume pistons I polished and they slide nice, you blow in the bottom and they move great.

The idle screws are all between 1 1/2 and 2 turns out, If I turn them outor in theIdle goes down, I adjusted those when syncing the carbs. The gauges were all at 14 with the bike and 1200 rpm, thats with the mercury syncronizer.
Gearhead76, a couple of places to look at.

Make sure the ignition timing moves (& returns smoothly) as the RPM raises & lowers. Sticking ign advance can really change your idle speeds.

On those pilot needles. I don't have the adjustment specs on your 77 but on all the later Wings I have worked on the initial pilot needle adjustment is just a preliminary starting point & they usually end up a turn or so more out after a proper idle drop adjustment. (maybe try the needles a turn more out on all 4 to see what effect that has).

Twisty
 

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Classico wrote:
The setting that I mentioned is not the idle adjustment to be done on the idle adjustment srew. You need to adjust the pilot screw for the idle mixture on each carburator separately. Turn eache completely down. Carefully, do not tighten it. Then turn each one out as mentioned in the table.

You might have to readjust the idle screw later then, probably to lower the idle rpm.

Good luck.
Welcome to the forum Classico. I had to do the same for my '77 and it worked like yours. I think the specs given in the manuals are a little too lean.

Thanks for your input.
 

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Sounds like either the advance isn't falling back all the way or the throttles aren't closing. If the throttle cables or linkage isn't free it's possible the incoming air isn't allowing the throttle plates to close all the way until you slow the engine with the clutch.
 

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exavid wrote:
Sounds like either the advance isn't falling back all the way or the throttles aren't closing. If the throttle cables or linkage isn't free it's possible the incoming air isn't allowing the throttle plates to close all the way until you slow the engine with the clutch.
I agree with Paul on this one, by reading your complaint above when the idle speed changed 3 times at one stop (you mentioned low/ then to 800/then to 2000).

Sounds very much like a combination of sticking linkage and worn advance springs (weak) causing your grief.....



My 2 cents/pence
 

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Gearhead76 wrote:
I have dyna electronic ignition, I static checked the timing with a test light, I don't have the timing plug to do it while its running. good blue spark on all four cylinders, New coils wires and plug boots, New throttle cables that move good With a little play like your suppose to have, all linkage on carb is free and returns to closed like it should, I can push on the linkages and it doesn't change the idle, so they are closing like they should,
Gearhead76, try to check that ign timing dynamically with a timing light. You can even check it against a cam belt pulley, you really don't need to know what it is you just want to track it's movement.

I can push on the linkages and it doesn't change the idle, so they are closing like they should,
That pretty well tells us you don't have a sticking linkage or hanging throttle cables.

Try richening the pilot needles a little (about a turn) to see if they are set lean & causing an idle problem.

Twisty
 
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