Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
imported post

Just finishing installing my "new" tach cable. The OEM part # was correct.



Had to remove:

- seat

- lower fairings

- false tank

- loosen airbox



Routed new cable along-side old one to ensure correct path and then unbolted fuel pump and removed old cable from the drive flange in the fuel pump...



Low-and-behold the new cable's drive-end was NOT the same as the old one (even though it had the correct part number.) The first "shoulder" was much fatter than the existing cable preventing full insertion into the fuel pump.



If any of you find yourself needing to replace the tach cable, here's a TIP:



Unbolt the fuel pump, pull the drive-end of the cable and compare it to the new cable you have... It may just save you some time and headaches....



BTW the remedy I chose was to pull the inner drive cable and use the old cable housing, bolted everything back up and now I have a working tachometer!!!



I hope this little tidbit might help someone in the future.



Sincerely,

Ken
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,902 Posts
imported post

I duct taped a new cable to the end of the old cable, and then pulled it through. Didn't remove anything.

Kens, good advice on pre-inspecting parts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
710 Posts
imported post

I couldn't use my old cable jacket, I screwed it up by not undoing it when I pulled the engine. So now I have a new tach cable and new speedo cable; that one snapped on the road. I'm just waiting for the "pull" cable for the carbs to break now.
James
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top