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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I rode the bike home from work, and it was running fine. The next day when I started it to warm it up. It ran fine for a few minutes then it started to run rough. I noticed the lights flickering at an idle. When I twisted the throttle it would sputter pretty bad. As I was doing this I was looking at the gas gauge. When I twisted the throttle and the sputtering was going on the gas gauge would drop like the ignition was being cut off. As long as it was left at an idle the gas gauge would stay up where it was supposed to be. I was told by another forum that I might have a connection problem in the stator wires. And was recommended that I cut the plug out and solder the yellow wires and heat shrink them. So that's what I did. It seemed to solve the problem. I took it for a ride and it did fine. That weekend I backed it out on the driveway and gave it a bath. And it started to run bad like the water got into something, Or my plug wires or coils were bad. The next day I went to work and let the bike set all week to dry out. Today I fired it up to go for a ride and It was back to the beginning when I thought I had a problem with the stator. I did test the out put of the stator and it was putting out right at 13.6 V at 5000 rpm. Which is where I was told the parameters were supposed to be. Now I'm at a loss of what is going on. Could the lights flickering, and the sputtering be caused by bad plug wires and coils? I would very much appreciate any help I can get on this very large paper weight sitting in my garage.:wtf:
 

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Other side of the pond
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3,409 Posts
Check the dogbone fuse. They can crack and cause all kinds of issues like the ones you describe.
 

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+1 dogdone..change out for a blade fuse..buy a holder with eyelets and "bolt" on to the spot where the dog bone fuse was attached..
 

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Cyclebusters.com
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could be faulty ignition switch. also if your battery is weak, the pulses from the alternator will be more noticeable
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ignition switch is good and solid. And the battery is brand new. looks like I'm gonna have to take it to the shop for diagnosis.
 

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Answer Seeker & Kibitzer
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Worth a look...

These old 1100's have a history of fuse problems..
They corrode and overheat..
It MAY not be your problem -- but it is easy enough to look and see... My 1100 had to have a new fuse block put in due to melting and loose fuses..Here is what I did...






 

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Nice job on the new fuse box Wingsconsin. Did you build yourself or was it made for something else? Any info you could share would be much appreciated. Nice and neat. Awesome!
 

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Answer Seeker & Kibitzer
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Thanks again for your information. I have added them to my Honda folder. Looks like a good winter project to undertake this year. If you ever get up towards the U.P. let me know. Lunch is on me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
O.K. You guys are probably thinking that I'm totally ignorant, and should just give up and take it to the shop. So if you are why stop now? The area on the right of the fuse box. Is that where the dog bone fuse would go? If so, When I tried to put an inline fuse in there it was blowing the acc fuse. So I removed it. With the comment above about corroded fuse connections in the fuse box. Mine actually looks really good. So I'm going to leave it alone. Trying to diagnose the original problem, The starter solenoid went bad and now I have to replace it. So until I have a new one on. I will not be able to continue the diagnostics. I was attempting to start the bike after having it on a tender for the last two days, to see if having a full charge was the cure for the flickering and sputtering. I guess we'll see when I get the solenoid replaced.
 

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Junior Grue
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8,153 Posts
The so called dog-bone fuse is housed in the starter relay that you're replacing.
 
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