Sounds like a weak battery. Do you have a load tester? Do you have a lot of electrical accessories added, ie driving lights or light bars? The stators on these old bikes do not produce that much watts able to run lot's of accessories. Install a volt gauge to be able to keep up with how the battery/stator is performing. The stator should be producing 14.5 volts at 2000 rpms. I have kuryakan led volt meter on my 1100. If I'm not showing a green light, I'll switch off some accessories to get a good charge. All my accessories are switched to be able to turn them off or on as needed.
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And it may be easily/cheaply repairable. Don't go nuts YET!
raying:First, who is "he"? The PO (previous owner)? As Ansimp says, a battery will go dead quickly without proper charging, regardless of the use of electricity on the bike. Load check the battery to be sure it's good. Any good auto parts store will do this, preferably the one you bought it from, since they have the biggest incentive to keep you happy.
Clean and sound battery connections and cables, including GOOD GROUND.
Soldered and shrinktubed stator wires, the three yellow wires to the left of the battery on most of our bikes. If the plastic plug is still there, cut it out and solder the wires and shrinktube. Be sure to check the soundness of the soldered joints if it's already been done. If you have a multi-tester, check the AC ouput of the stator on each wire before you button it up. Also make sure your main fuse ("dogbone" or otherwise to the right of the battery) is clean, sound, and tight.
On my 1200 I had this same problem when I got it and did as above and it was still not cutting it. I peeled back the electrical tape about 5" higher and found ANOTHER set of soldered joints, one of which fell apart when I touched it. It runs like a top now, with current well within the service limits for the stator.
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