81 gl1100 can't get carbs out

1304 Views 19 Replies 12 Participants Last post by georgeair, Nov 14, 2012

Bschofield

Discussion Starter · Jul 20, 2009

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ok.. after 2 hours i'm done for today... how on earth do i get this assembly out.. i've removed, moved... everything that i can get to.. even the coolant pipes at the cylinder ( by accident) but not the center piece for the coolant pipes.. i have removed highway bars, i have taken fairing pieces.. i have verified all of the hoses are undone, throttle cables are undone ( which was a huge PITA) sooo as you can tell i'm definitely venting.. but frustrated.:X.. would like to be back on it tomorrow.. plan on starting early to avoid the heat...

Help!!!:?

Barry

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Silicon Sam

· #2 · Jul 20, 2009

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Glad I don't have to deal with it again, but if I recall, take the carbs loose, remove the cables, etc... Then remove the 2 elbows from the right side carbs, and remove the 2 caps from the tops of the carbs on the right side, as well as the plunger and spring. Label which one came from which one.. Then slide the whole booger out the left side.

Bschofield

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 20, 2009

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ok.. that makes sense.. it seems to be hanging up on the covers... and the pipes.. but now i have to try to get it back in enough to do that.. i seem to have the assembly wedged, and i figured before i broke something i would take a break..

thank you!

Barry

Silicon Sam

· #4 · Jul 20, 2009

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Just a note, you don't NEED to remove the right side elbows, but you do need to at least loosen the rubber boot, and swing the elbows towards each other. Just so they are not pointing downwards anymore.

I am sure there are a few more ways to get them out, but this way worked fine for me.

brianinmaine

· #5 · Jul 20, 2009

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I just had mine out 2 days ago. I took off all 4 intakes with the rubber boots, and the carb slides on the 1&3 cylinders, then out the left. The throttle cables are awful! It does just fit, and putting it back is even more exciting!
Just make sure EVERYTHING is perfect, not just "good enough" and you might not have to do it again! Quadruple check everything!

muaymendez1

· #6 · Jul 20, 2009

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I Shrunk my carbs a tad , Until they slid out of the left side. Its a pain but after 3 more times youll be a pro at it. I still dread that job but I am at 35 mins so far. Thats a new record I think. Last time I pulled them. i was havving trouble because I made sure everything was dissconected except for the fuel lines. OOOOPS.

My left coolant pipe is also all scratched up.

Bschofield

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 20, 2009

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Silicon Sam wrote:

Glad I don't have to deal with it again, but if I recall, take the carbs loose, remove the cables, etc... Then remove the 2 elbows from the right side carbs, and remove the 2 caps from the tops of the carbs on the right side, as well as the plunger and spring. Label which one came from which one.. Then slide the whole booger out the left side.

After sleeping on it. and then looking at again this a.m. i managed after about 10 minutes to slide the assembly far enough to get the elbows off, once i did that it was out in 2 minutes! it's just knowing what's needed! so far i have the main intake cleaned and one carb.. taking a small break.. then back to the rest!

Thanks for all of your help!

Barry

Bagmaster

· #8 · Jul 20, 2009

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Take your time and do 1 carb at a time. Be very careful on setting the float height as it's critical to keep the carbs from running too rich or lean.

Required reading on setting float height properly.

http://www.randakks.com/TechTip33.htm

Carb removal
http://www.randakks.com/TechTip49.htm

Bschofield

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 21, 2009

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UPDATE:

finally finished, got everything back assembled..
Relatively runs well, at idle seems to lope, or almost a miss.. but once i give it throttle, or it is over around 3500 seems to run like a champ.. stronger and more responsive... but this low end... i'm thinking it is syncing, but i did searches and didn't really find indications of bad sync, just lot's of posts on HOW to sync, which i will do.. when i can get my hands some gauges...

I have checked spark plugs, all are tan, (new last week)
i have trimmed a quarter inch off of each spark plug wire and reatached just to be sure that everything is good there.

so .. did i screw something up? or is it just a sync issue?

thanks for everthing..

Barry

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johnnynogood

· #10 · Jul 21, 2009

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Sounds like it is just in need of a sync job. Always more noticeable at idle. Might check to see if there's any vacuum problems too.

rb7632

· #11 · Jul 21, 2009

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I was having serious idling problems with my GL1100. I got the sych gauges and set about to sych the carbs to see if that would fix my problems or if I needed a full rebuild job.

I found that two cylinders were a bit out of synch but also that the set screws in the intakes were missing on three cylinders.

Replaced the screws, set the synch, runs like a new bike. Idles great.

I know the screws were a major problem allowing three cylinders to run differently from the fourth but I'm also sure the synch helped a lot.

Synch them up. Even a small difference can cause problems at idle speeds. The big job of rebuilding is already done, don't stop short and leave a major problem by not synching them up.

Bagmaster

· #12 · Jul 21, 2009

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Any time you do carb work you really need to re-check the sync on them.

Keno

· #13 · Jul 21, 2009

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Don't think of your motor as 1 unit but as 4 one cyl engines tied together.(Four independent fuel systems) Carb. sync. tunes eachmotor to the other at lower rpms. (where you have some control over fuel mixture and performance). Using thevacuumgauges gives better and more accurateresultsthan the old tune upsby ear and touch. :waving:Keno

Bschofield

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jul 21, 2009

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thank you all. I have been riding all day today, put about 150 miles on the bike ... ( almost feel i need a name for IT.. oh well) anyway.. love it above 4k rpms.. but lopes on the low side.. so i've found a local shop has the vacuum gauge set for $80 , just wondering if there's any of you fine riders in my neck of the woods who has some and would be willing to charge me a bit less than the $80 to either let me use them, or to help me out with the sync. otherwise.. i just buy them.. just would rather put the money elsewhere.

Thank you again.. going to send some mana for all of the help this site has been!

Barry

jpbadger9

· #15 · Jul 22, 2009

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Common problem with the 1100's is clogged idle jets. Check to make sure it's firing on all cylinders at idle before doing the sync. Easy way is to use a spray bottle with water and spray each header while it's idling. If you don't get instant steam, that cylinder is not firing...

Bschofield

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jul 22, 2009

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jpbadger9 wrote:

Common problem with the 1100's is clogged idle jets. Check to make sure it's firing on all cylinders at idle before doing the sync. Easy way is to use a spray bottle with water and spray each header while it's idling. If you don't get instant steam, that cylinder is not firing...

will do that, that is a good idea.. hopefully after just going through the carbs that's not the problem. but .. could have missed something.

Barry

Keno

· #17 · Jul 22, 2009

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Look in the FAQ forum page. How to sync carbs. gives you a detail instruction on how to put a fairly cheap set together. Several members have built thier own set using only 2 gauges. Alsothe artical walks you right thru the process step by step.:waving:Keno

mkdm0

· #18 · Nov 11, 2012

oriskany

Bagmaster said:
Take your time and do 1 carb at a time. Be very careful on setting the float height as it's critical to keep the carbs from running too rich or lean.

Required reading on setting float height properly.

http://www.randakks.com/TechTip33.htm

Carb removal
http://www.randakks.com/TechTip49.htm

\I too was on the Oriskany, 66-69 I was as A-4 plane captain in VA-163, then later VA-55 on the Hancock. NP 300 was my bird John Mccain got shot down in

morriscatt

· #19 · Nov 11, 2012

To anyone's first Carb job I like to add something passed on to me here.. If you re-route the throttle cables "outside" the frame on the left side, you will be able to slide the carbs way out on the left before having to remove throttle cables.. MUCH easier that factory positioning of the cables. This job has taken many several times to get the floats set correctly, and the idle jets really clean..

georgeair

· #20 · Nov 14, 2012

It sure does took me four times to get it right. Run good now and planty of power getting 32 mpg with two up. Now just got to make more time to go ride

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