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What would cause the bike to keep accelerating for a few seconds after throttle is closed? Confirmed that cables are running freely and not sticking on. Choke isoperating and cable not sticking.

All jets have been replaced with new and same size. Float heights are spot on. Air cut-off valves (diaghrams) are on the firm side (leathery texture)but not split or cracked. (got a set ordered). the carbs are all balance pretty equally.

the bike is in my local workshop at the moment. The mechanics are not wing experts and i'm kinda guiding them best I can but they do know their bikes.I'm asking thishere to draw on your experience for them.

Workshop have stripped carbs again and flushed, cleaned and refitted. Same symptoms I found and that is - running on 2 cylinders(right hand pair as you sit on bike). Chugs a bit on tickover and take off then the other 2 LHS cylindersseem to kick in and you feel the power surge. The scary thing is when you back off the throttle after accelerating hard, the engine is still pulling like a train as if the throttle is still on. The engine takes a few seconds for revs to back off.

I've got another set of carbswhich are pretty dirty and are gunged up inside. The diaghrams are soft and rubbery as they should be.

The workshop are going toclean, set up and fit these carbs and see how the bike runs.

Hasanyone experienced same symptoms and can offer some advice?

Cheers GW
 

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The Irish Crew
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A sticking diaphragm will do that, I had the same problem with one carb.
 

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FIRST thing i would do is pull a compression test, if the bike is still pulling after releasing the throttle it could be a bent valve, if you run it in this condition it will pop the head off the valve and take out the engine, a compression test is easy to do and will only take a few minutes of time, did the bike ever break a timming belt? have they been replaced? its about the right time for them either way, if they have been replaced then it could have been off a few teeth and bent a valve
 

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I've replaced belts. Workshop has checked compression soon after I dropped the bike into the workshop and all seems fairly equal round the cylinders. I have suggested they check belts as if one tooth off I believe the bike would run, I'm just not sure eactly what the symptoms would be precisley. I've ordered a set of diaghrams meantime.

I await todays workshop updateeagerly as i'm hoping to do a trip this weekend to my club rally. I'm feeling stressed outlike an expectant father just hoping for the call to say they've nailed it!!
 

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Hanging slides..you may need to pull the carbs and clean/polish the slides..lightly..use aluminum foil or crocus cloth.. inside the tube and the surface of the slide
 

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Synch the carbs too!
 

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the slides should do just that freely . I like to "hear" them slide open then closed, as I tip the assembly upside down and back again when I am done rebuilding.One more thing when rebuilding goldwing carbs, it is best to make sure the domes and pistons/ slides don't get mixed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
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Latest from workshop is that old carbs cleaned and fitted. Bike starts and runs but problem has moved from 2+4 notfiring properly to2 + 3. same symptoms, ie chugging roughly on tickoverand then all four kicking in as revs increased. The delayeddecreasein revs seems to have improved though.

Again, the diaphrams seem to be on the hard siderather thansoft rubber. I've ordered a new set of 4from Dave Silvers Honda which should arrive tomorow. I just hope they arive in good time in the morning so the workshop can at least get some time to fit and test again.

Any other ideas, thoughts or advice are welcome.



One day left in the workshop then i'm up sh*t creak for my rally. I'vebeen offereda Suzuki Burgman 400 as a standby but I think i'd rather ride my wing on 2 cylinders :sadguy:
 

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does the 81 have 4 air cut off valves( 75 has just one)?
 

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I would say the carbs are way out of synch or the air cut offs are bad. The slides really cannot cause that, it is the throttle butterflys that control the RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
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4 x Air cut-off valves arrived today from Dave Silvers spares. Great overnight delivery woohoo, headed straight down to workshop with the package. Carbs are already split waiting on these parts so he was able to start straight away. Should know fairly soon I guess. Only bad news was that the accelerator pump diaphram looks like its gone hard too, on both sets of carbs. Doh, if i'd known.....

Dave Silvers quotes £62 for it !!!

Local Honda dealer£73

CMNSL £58

But I came across another company - NRP Motorcycle carb repairers http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/index.htm

who quoted only £14 !!



That's some difference so NRP gotmy order





Fingers crossed that I can get back on the road today, stay positive :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
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Getting there, Firstly, the accelerator pump seal is knackered (the long concertina like seal). It's solid rubber and not flexible at all. Basicall the mechanic has rebuilt the carbs again but pinched the accelerator pump from one carb and fitted in other carbs for the moment. replaced all the air cut-off valves, removed and cleaned all the jets and filter beneath the float valve. Reset all the float heights and balanced carbs again.

We now have 3 barrels firing on tickover and all 4 on heigher revs andwhen on the road.

we're definately on the right track but once we get the new accelerator pump next week there's nothing else that can be replaced and he can give it another shot.

sandcastcb750 I think you're maybe right in that one jet still has some crud.

I've got my bike back now to get me to my rally this weekend so i'm quite relieved on one hand but still a bit nervous on the other as I've not had a chance to shake it down. This is the liveinaugral run.

The battery was a bit on the flat side when i took it from the workshop. running around i noticed the red ignition light flickering on now and again and it was really slow to turn over, eventually not turning at all. in the morning I'll need to check alternator output. Old connector fitted so still to do the mod and solder the wires. Didn't want to do that in case engine had to come out for any reason but think we're ok now so i'll maybe justcut and solder upin mornto be sure
 
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