imported post
i sure hope you turned motor over by hand before using starter. fully charge battery, make sure getting fuel.
i sure hope you turned motor over by hand before using starter. fully charge battery, make sure getting fuel.
81 TIMING BELT INSTALL
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Okay after two years we are putting my girls bike together. new head gaskets, new belts, slightly used carbs, everything lights up and works.
i have never installed new belts, but i do have a manual. belts on, gas in, oil, coolant.
we have spark, we have compression, we have fuel up to the pump.
the bike almost started with WD40, but no quite. this morning it almost started after sitting all night, slight backfire, but failed to start. the new battery seemed a little sluggish, but we have been cranking often. timing light shows that we are on one of the T marks on #1 cylinder., however it is hard to tell if it is one or two. I set belts on T1. I may try again and mark the fly wheel with red nail polish, easier to see.
I realize this is a lot of info, but the more YOU know, THE EASIER to advise someone who is semi-competent. This site has been a real boon to me, its like having dozens of really competent relatives. I only wish I could repay the favor.
DAVE
Okay after two years we are putting my girls bike together. new head gaskets, new belts, slightly used carbs, everything lights up and works.
i have never installed new belts, but i do have a manual. belts on, gas in, oil, coolant.
we have spark, we have compression, we have fuel up to the pump.
the bike almost started with WD40, but no quite. this morning it almost started after sitting all night, slight backfire, but failed to start. the new battery seemed a little sluggish, but we have been cranking often. timing light shows that we are on one of the T marks on #1 cylinder., however it is hard to tell if it is one or two. I set belts on T1. I may try again and mark the fly wheel with red nail polish, easier to see.
I realize this is a lot of info, but the more YOU know, THE EASIER to advise someone who is semi-competent. This site has been a real boon to me, its like having dozens of really competent relatives. I only wish I could repay the favor.
DAVE
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Try this, http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=17422&forum_id=9&jump_to=165398#p165398
complete with pics and also applies to 1100's.
Try this, http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=17422&forum_id=9&jump_to=165398#p165398
complete with pics and also applies to 1100's.
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Dave: I think I would pull the timing belt covers and check belt alignment before I would try starting again. Also check static timing (rotate by hand) it's easier to see marks that way.
Dave: I think I would pull the timing belt covers and check belt alignment before I would try starting again. Also check static timing (rotate by hand) it's easier to see marks that way.
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dingdong wrote:
The GW's need fully charged batteries to provide enough power to both crank the engine and provide enough energy to fire the ignition side. A low battery can crank the engine and not have enoughpower to provide adequatespark.
Terry
dingdong wrote:
Also, hook the battery to a low amp charger, 2 amps or less.You don't want to boil the electrolyte.Dave: I think I would pull the timing belt covers and check belt alignment before I would try starting again. Also check static timing (rotate by hand) it's easier to see marks that way.
The GW's need fully charged batteries to provide enough power to both crank the engine and provide enough energy to fire the ignition side. A low battery can crank the engine and not have enoughpower to provide adequatespark.
Terry
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All the things you mentioned i did, tunr by hand, chalk marks, rhecked and re checked. I am still leaning towards my slightly used carbs. they smelled really really bad when they arrived.so bad we had to put them outdoors for a couple days. there eas definitely nsty fuel left in parts of the passages. other than a visual exam they recieved no proper cleaning. that may have been the error
All the things you mentioned i did, tunr by hand, chalk marks, rhecked and re checked. I am still leaning towards my slightly used carbs. they smelled really really bad when they arrived.so bad we had to put them outdoors for a couple days. there eas definitely nsty fuel left in parts of the passages. other than a visual exam they recieved no proper cleaning. that may have been the error
imported post
Confirm that your plug wires are not mixed up. Try to open the carb bleader screws one at a time & ensure that all 4 bowls have clean fuel in them. Kill switch to run & if you need to, boost from a non running car or truck. Do not crank excessivly or you will cook your starter. Plug gaps should be around 30. Once it starts do not rev it up alot. It needs time to loosen up & lubricate.
Keep us posted!
Confirm that your plug wires are not mixed up. Try to open the carb bleader screws one at a time & ensure that all 4 bowls have clean fuel in them. Kill switch to run & if you need to, boost from a non running car or truck. Do not crank excessivly or you will cook your starter. Plug gaps should be around 30. Once it starts do not rev it up alot. It needs time to loosen up & lubricate.
Keep us posted!
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I just reread your posts. Have you tried pumping a good dose of Seafoam into carbs and let them set for a few hours. This will help to loosen any crud in the idle circuits. This may not be a major problem. However, smelling of bad gas indicates, IMO, a possibility of varnish build up in those minuscule circuits. Just a thought.
Terry
I just reread your posts. Have you tried pumping a good dose of Seafoam into carbs and let them set for a few hours. This will help to loosen any crud in the idle circuits. This may not be a major problem. However, smelling of bad gas indicates, IMO, a possibility of varnish build up in those minuscule circuits. Just a thought.
Terry
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i will try the seafoam. will it damage or destroy rubber gaskets and o rings? also appreciate the tip on draining the bowls. on the static timing: are we discussing using a multimeter to look for needle swing, watching a spark plug for spark, or using a timing light to see a flash? i have done static timing with points in place but not with an electronic ignition.
i hope i do not come across as a complete d***a**, its just been awhile since we had to work on anything, even with owning a Ford and a Wing.
i will try the seafoam. will it damage or destroy rubber gaskets and o rings? also appreciate the tip on draining the bowls. on the static timing: are we discussing using a multimeter to look for needle swing, watching a spark plug for spark, or using a timing light to see a flash? i have done static timing with points in place but not with an electronic ignition.
i hope i do not come across as a complete d***a**, its just been awhile since we had to work on anything, even with owning a Ford and a Wing.
imported post
There is no adjustment for spark timing on a GL1100... I think the mention of timing was in reference to the timing belts..
There is no adjustment for spark timing on a GL1100... I think the mention of timing was in reference to the timing belts..
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