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hey fellas I posted this on the naked goldwing forum also, though I would send it here too, I have a 82 1100 Interstate, been fighting with carbs since I been riding it which is about a year and a half. the bike has a good idle after fiddling with the mixture screws and the carb sync dead on, and this thing will launch you down the road at about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle you can really tell when those secondary jets kick in and I have a good working vacuum advance. but cruising down the road at about 40 to 55 or so cruising speed you can here the exauhst note breaking up and sluggish power with engine underload or pulling a hill in high gear, but if I start pumping the throttle this will start to clear up and make the bike start pulling stronger. I also tried running the pilot screws all the way out so that they are just a couple turns away from falling out this seems increase the cruising speed power and hill pulling power at that 40 to 55 mph speed in high gear. this makes me wonder if I need a bigger primary jet. correct me if I am wrong but its my understanding that this bike runs on the idle or primary jet the one with #35 stamped on it up until about half throttle which then engages the cv slide raising the big needle causing gas to be pulled from the large secondary jet is that right? another question when I crank out those pilot screws am I increasing gas flow, air flow or both on the primary jet? and yes this bike has 170 pounds of compression around 2.0 pounds of fuel pressure belts and valves in time and K/L carb kit like new cut off valves the list goes on and on etc.........

 

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Your float levels may be too low causing it to run lean. Yes the idle screws control fuel and the main jets start to kick in at probably 1/8 throttle. There are transition ports in the throat of the carbs that you can see when you open the throttle slightly, little holes just under the throttle plate. Just after it gets past those the mains kick in.
 

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I set my floats to 15.5mm with a mic precision caliber with the cabs standing on end so that the tang is just touching the needle valve spring, those main jets seem to be kicking in at about half throttle because at that point it will launch you down the road, but it seems to be lacking power at normal cruising speed with engine under a load such as pulling a hill, and on a calm day with very little wind I can here the exhaust lightly breaking up at cruising speed high gear on a flat road, but you really got tobe listen for it then, but the true tell tell sigh is when you are pulling a hill.
 

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That's a lot like my 83 acted before I set the floats. They were all over the place, some high and some low. Not saying that's your problem but it was with mine. You might have to raise the level some to get it right. I checked the volume of gas in the bowls after getting mine set on both 1100s I had and there was exactly 1 1/2 ounces of gas in each bowl.
 

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Just to help rule some stuff out, Can you give it some choke when it begins to stumble & tell us what happens?

Have you also checked the condition of your plug wires where they thread onto the plug boot? there is also a resistor in each plug boot which could be failing causing a weak spark that fails under load only.

Keep us posted!
 

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giving the bike some choke when this happens doesnt seem to effect it any until I pull the choke all the way out which the results in flooding the system and bogging it down even more. The wires and coils are original dont know the KV level under a load, the bike seems to have plenty of spark at full throttle because it will launch you down the road around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle but maybe thats because the vacuum advance ismaking those coils pick up the pace, I dont know, this might be a good place to check.....thanks for the info, keep those ideas coming maybe we can figure this thing out together.........:stumped:
 

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hatchetman wrote:
Just to help rule some stuff out, Can you give it some choke when it begins to stumble & tell us what happens?

Have you also checked the condition of your plug wires where they thread onto the plug boot? there is also a resistor in each plug boot which could be failing causing a weak spark that fails under load only.

Keep us posted!
I'm in the process of changing my wires right now. My 1100's doin exactley the same thing!!! Also getting a new battery.If this doesn't work I guess I'll pull carbs and check float's!!
 

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If the battery is bad, you will get the effect that no choking will help and it takes forever to start, if it does. Doesn't seem to catch. So, make sure the battery is fully charged!

If the battery is good, and the choke won't help, the carbs are most like dirty/unadjusted. My slow jets, before I cleaned them cause very hard starting even with a new battery.

My problem was the slow jets. The sympton was also no power between 1000-2500 rpms. And the rattles. Valve adjustment no help either.

If you have a 1982 set of carbs, you can unscrew the slow jets. Did you see light through the center orafice?

Maybe you have done all this? Do you have another set of carbs try see a difference?
 

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I dont have any other carbs to experiment with, I do have a good battery and good charging system and I use a maintainer on the battery at night, The bike starts great. I do plan to work on the bike tommorow and try some of the ideas I have picked up from you guys.......thanks for the help everyone:waving:
 

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I might finally have it fixed I noticed this morning the two carbs the bike was leaning toward this morning were flooded over never had that happen before till I set my carb floats standing on end, so I pulled em and reset the floats with the carbs laying flat it gives you a totally different reading, it may be these K/L needle valves I am using, also noticed some rubber particles being held back by the needle seat screens, thats probably what stopped up my idle circuits just recently, what happened was the screens came loose from the seats letting debris shut down the #1 carb causing a spit out the exhaust, I used gorilla glue to put the screens back on hope it works. the debris looks to be coming from a deteriorating fuel pump diaphragm from the looks of the stretched and cracking diaphragm when I took it apart, I now have a new pump on order be here in a couple weeks I hope. I also just added a clear lawnmower filter between the pump and the carbs for added protection and noticed the fuel pump is struggling to keep it half full and is spitting out more rubber debris, so I will have to wait on the new pump before I can do a proper test ride and determine if I chased out all the gremlins....thanks again everybody for your time and help...:action:
 

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Awesome! At least your getting your wing dialed in before summer hits! It sucks when your wrenching while everyone else is riding!
 

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Davogd430 wrote:
I checked the volume of gas in the bowls after getting mine set on both 1100s I had and there was exactly 1 1/2 ounces of gas in each bowl.


Checked mine yesterday.

Had 45ml, 46ml, 48ml. 48ml in my float bowls. I think 1fl oz = about 30ml.
 

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Man, If I had a dollar for every time I read about Goldwing carb problems (especially on older wings), I swear I would have enough for a couple sets of tires! =) I, too, fiddled here, there, and everywhere when my carbs started to go on the fritz... Then again, I put some 250,000 miles on them without ever having to clean or rebuild the things, so I can't gripe too much... =)
I finally said "the heck with it" and built my own single carb manifold.... Been running a Holley 2110 2 barrel on my wing since about 2004 and haven't regretted it a bit. Making a manifold isn't as hard as you might think and you can get decent 2 barrel carbs off eBay all day long for less than $100.00. I think I paid about $60 bux for the Holley.
I know the Goldwing purists out there are CRINGING at the thought, but I live by the adage "poor folks have poor ways".... I'll do anything possible to keep my raggedy wing dependeable and on the road... Just a thought. =) You can view pix of my conversion here: http://www.htc.net/~squirts/plastic.htm

PS Oh yeah...check out my "custom" fabrication to make the carb fit... An idea, a little patience and a big hammer and ANYTHING is possible. =)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
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yeah the debris was being caught by the small tightly meshed screens that are glued on to the float valve seats that screw into the carbs, had to reglue my screenscause they came loose letting crap bypass them.

and also I like your single carb idea squirts but I spent around 200 dollars rebuilding my carbs so im going to have to live with them for a while, and I think I am finally over the hump,but if these multi carbs coninue to be a headache :gunhead:I may consider building a single carb intake in the future, the webers look like a nice setup.......:waving:
 
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