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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm pretty sure I have a blown left head gasket on my '82 1100 Interstate. I get white smoke that disipates quickly at startup, smoke that whafts from the left pipe at shutdown (HD take-off mufflers with no cross-over) and a sweet smell to the exhaust.

First, are there any other checks I should do to confirm a blown gasket?
low coolant?
Oil in coolant?
Coolant in oil?
steam cleaned spark plugs?
Other?

Assuming I do have a blown head gasket, I'm planning to replace both sides. The timing belts, thermostat & radiator hoses are all about 2 years old with less than 10k miles on them, so I'm not planning to replace those. I'll probably replace the throttle & choke cables and valve seals while I'm in there. Any other jobs to be done while I have the heads/carbs/water pipes/etc off?
Valve guides?
Valve Lap?
Valve springs?
bearings?
Warpage tests?

As for parts, is it correct that I need the parts listed in what used to be called Gasket Set "A"? WesternHonda's fiche doesn't sell the "kit" as it's been discontinued, but they do still list the individual parts with quantity needed.

Thanks!
 

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In August I replaced headgaskets, lapped valves, cleaned fuel pump, replaced timing belt, cleaned oil screen, flushed cooling system, replaced timing belt, fuel filter, .....I used VESRAH COMPLETE GASKET SET HONDA GL1100 GOLDWING 1980-1983.......it had everything I needed for gaskets except valve seals..I've put 1200 miles on it and everything is fine....but a lot of the guru's say to use only Honda Headgaskets......
 

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I'm pretty sure I have a blown left head gasket on my '82 1100 Interstate. I get white smoke that disipates quickly at startup, smoke that whafts from the left pipe at shutdown (HD take-off mufflers with no cross-over) and a sweet smell to the exhaust.

First, are there any other checks I should do to confirm a blown gasket?
low coolant?
Oil in coolant?
Coolant in oil?
steam cleaned spark plugs?
Other?

Assuming I do have a blown head gasket, I'm planning to replace both sides. The timing belts, thermostat & radiator hoses are all about 2 years old with less than 10k miles on them, so I'm not planning to replace those. I'll probably replace the throttle & choke cables and valve seals while I'm in there. Any other jobs to be done while I have the heads/carbs/water pipes/etc off?
Valve guides?
Valve Lap?
Valve springs?
bearings?
Warpage tests?

As for parts, is it correct that I need the parts listed in what used to be called Gasket Set "A"? WesternHonda's fiche doesn't sell the "kit" as it's been discontinued, but they do still list the individual parts with quantity needed.

Thanks!
Don't know your miles (on engine)...

Mine, with 68K miles, had tight valve guides (you can wiggle test the stem after you remove the keepers with your OHV engine valve spring compressor.

Lapping...I wouldn't do it unless you can't pass the alcohol in the upside down combustion chamber test. THis is the first test I do after removing and cleaning the heads (without a wire brush, which will score aluminum chambers and flat faces).

Cam bearings...you can the fit check there after you back off the valve lash.
If you can't detect a radial runout (slop) with a dial indicator, then don't tear those down. Harbor Freight has the indicators. Shop manual has runout.

Don't tear it down for tear down's sake. The chemical reaction that was working on your head gaskets (I used Honda parts) is on a different degredation timeline than the machined parts.

Valve stem seals could stand to be changed, but if you weren't using oil, the guides are tight (to specs anyway), and the valve faces are sealing fine (pass the alchohol leak into the ports test), you can leave it all alone, change the head gaskets, water tube o-rings, the intake manifold rubber o-rings, oil restrictor o-rings, and possibly cam bearing oil seals (leave alone if not leaking though). Lube the cylinder head bolt threads and shoulders with moly 60 Honda lube. Three step torque down. Run it 100 miles in the winter lightly, come back and retorque.

Have you overheated the bike ? If not, you most lilkely have not warped the heads or the block. The block would be very hard to warp, too deep. When you do your valve leak test, get a straight edge and feeler gage and check the heads for sure. Don't scrape too hard on the head mating surface. You can have them clean and still show a discoloring (darker grey).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I don't have to guess anymore about whether or not my head gasket is blown. I picked up a cheap endoscope (details at this thread)

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...ssion-forum/395859-heres-very-handy-tool.html

and used it to take a few pics:

Hmmm sure looks like oil and coolant...


And the radiator throat sure looks messy


A little confused because I suspect the bad gasket is on the right (cylinders 1&3) but plugs 2&4 look to be cleaner than than 1&3.

1
2
3
4


But can't argue with what I found in the cylinders (bike has sidecar attached, so motor has been sitting level since shutdown a week ago)...

1


2


3


4


Looks like I got this year's first winter project!!
 

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Those pics certainly don't lie.
 

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+1 on Erickson38's post. I'd probably add the exhaust 'donuts' that go in the head and an oring for the water pump cover (I like to remove the rad by unbolting it rather than remove the bottem hose). Also, the water pipe tubes are always a problem area for leaks and I find it easier to 'fit' them separate from the head installation...in which case the gasket for the fitting on top of the head would be necessary.

Carb cleaner is an excellent solvent for decarboning the combustion chamber. I suppose you could make a reasonable case for replacing the valve seals since it's easy and you're in there anyway but valve guides?....replacing them is a 'can of worms'. Don't go there unless absolutely necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes to the valve stem seals
Yes to the exhaust gaskets
Yes to the water pump O-ring
Yes to the water pipe O-rings
No to the Head Cover Gaskets as mine are less than 2 years/3000 miles old

Here's my parts order if anyone comes across this thread in the future and is wondering what to order. It's pretty much everything from Gasket Set A which is now discontinued. Look for updates later in this thread in case I have to add more parts or find some that aren't needed.

Prices are from November, 2012 at CyclePartsNation.com and totals right around $200. CyclePartsNation.com is my local dealer's web site. I do pay state sales tax but $0.00 for shipping as I can do "Customer Pickup"


SEAL, VALVE STEM (NOK)
item: 12209-MB9-003
Price: $6.23
Qty: 8
$49.84

GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD
item: 12251-MG9-306
Old Sku: 12251-MG9-000
Price: $42.13
Qty: 2
$84.26

O-RING (40X2.6) (Intakes)
item: 91301-371-005
Old Sku: 91301-371-003
Price: $2.70
Qty: 4
$10.80

O-RING (6.5X1.5) (Oil Meter)
item: 91305-371-003
Price: $1.67
Qty: 2
$3.34

O-RING (4.1X1.5) (Oil Meter)
item: 91308-371-003
Price: $2.81
Qty: 2
$5.62

GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD COVER (between head and belt pully)
item: 12391-371-306
Price: $4.04
Qty: 1
$4.04

GASKET, BREAKER (between head and belt pully)
item: 30376-371-306
Price: $3.29
Qty: 2
$6.58

GASKET, EX. PIPE
item: 18291-286-306
Price: $4.18
Qty: 4
$16.72

O-RING (46X2) (Water Pump)
item: 91305-426-003
Old Sku: 91305-216-000
Price: $4.18
Qty: 1
$4.18

GASKET, WATER JOINT
item: 19429-371-306
Old Sku: 19429-371-000
Price: $3.71
Qty: 2
$7.42

O-RING (21.9X2.3) (Water Pipe)
item: 91301-MB6-003
Price: $1.67
Qty: 4
$6.68
 

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Sounds good.

I changed my valve cover gaskets and cam front seals in addition to your list, but these items were leaking on my 83, but not my exhaust copper o-rings. I also left my radiator in, since a standard is easy to work around in this area. I have a ratcheting 10 mm box end wrench to get the belt cover off.

Good wrenching...!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A quick shout out to CyclePartsNation.com. I ordered the parts on Monday around noon. They called me Tuesday afternoon to tell me the parts were ready for pickup! I thought for sure that they would need to order the parts from a warehouse adding several days to the process. Guess I'm a bit surprised that a dealer in a modest sized town would stock parts for a 30 year old bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finally got around to pulling the head off the right side. First, I drained the oil and coolant. I don't see much cross contamination. The amount of coolant is quite low tho, so it was definitely leaving the system somehow.

I gave the water pump impeller a wiggle side to side, up and down. Didn't move at all. I can get a couple degrees of turn out of it back and forth, but I think that is normal. I've never noticed any drips from the weep hole, so I'm guna call the water pump good.




 
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