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Just started up the 82-1100 after its long winter's nap and went for a 40 mile ride. At idle, when warm, there is an occasional loud knock that sounds like a cylinder is missing. Could be an almost-plugged slow speed jet, I suppose, so I'll put Seafoam in the tank when I gas it up tomorrow.

Question: When I got back, just for grins, I checked the plugs. When I removed the #1 or #2 plug, the engine stumbled but continued running (rough). However, when I remove either the #3 or #4 plug, the engine quits. Could this be an indication that I have weak coil or cable?

Also: The left side plugs were Autolite 4163 plugs and the right side were NGK DPR8EA-9. I'll replace them all with new DPR8's tomorrow, but could that have caused the knocking?

Thanks.
 

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Question: When I got back, just for grins, I checked the plugs. When I removed the #1 or #2 plug, the engine stumbled but continued running (rough). However, when I remove either the #3 or #4 plug, the engine quits. Could this be an indication that I have weak coil or cable?

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You already have a dead cylinder on 1 or 2 so when you pull a wire off 3 or 4 you have 2 dead cylinders, it just can't idle on 2 cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You already have a dead cylinder on 1 or 2 so when you pull a wire off 3 or 4 you have 2 dead cylinders, it just can't idle on 2 cylinders.
Thanks, Dave. But since it happens to both, do you think it might be the coil?
 

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Secondary winding on these coils is isolated, so the coil secondary winding depends on BOTH sparkplugs to complete the circuit. If either is compromised, neither will fire. So if you pull the wire off either #1 or #2, both will go dead.

But if you ground the wire you pulled off a sparkplug, this will allow the other plug to resume sparking.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
DenverWinger;5834747 So if you pull the wire off either #1 or #2 said:
Thanks, Denver. I'll try that. Now if I can just figure out how to get the double cap cover off those two plugs.....
 

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Might have to warm the rubbers up with a blow dryer to soften them. Then the Caps unscrew from The Wire. Turn the cap while holding the wire counterclockwise to unscrew it, it threads into the wire core

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

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I can't say I know what's going on with your knock, but I do know this! If on your shakedown run you had a plug not firing, you'd have known about it!

What is normally a powerful revvy machine, becomes as gutless as a Honda 50.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I can't say I know what's going on with your knock, but I do know this! If on your shakedown run you had a plug not firing, you'd have known about it! What is normally a powerful revvy machine, becomes as gutless as a Honda 50.
Thanks for your comment Chilidawg. I just noticed it when idling, but I get your point. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
When there is a missfire it will cause backlash noise in the gears.
No problems when running, just at idle, and it seems to have corrected itself. (Well. ok, with a little help from me -- and this forum.)

I installed new plugs, put 7 oz of Seafoam in the tank, filled it up and went for a a ride. When I got back, the knock was gone. I did notice that it's idling a little over 1000 RPM now -- that's up a couple hundred, so maybe it just needed to be run more.

Anyway, thanks to all who commented. Your help is much appreciated.
 

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I know what you mean John. When I first read the subject line, I had an urge to run out to the garage and check!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just remembered something (Imagine that!) that I wanted to mention: The fresh oil that I just put in prior to my exciting ride was Delo 400 15W40 xle synthetic with no mention of friction modifiers that I could find.

First time I've used their synthetic. It is ok, isn't it? And would not affect the sprague clutch? Thanks.
 

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That's a maybe, synthetic may be incompatible with the starter clutch. It may just be coincidence.
 
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