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Hi,



I have a constant (though very little) drip of oil coming from my valve pan gaskets (both sides). It has been a bit of an ongoing issue since I got the bike last year. It is just annoying as it makes the belly of the beast always oily and messy. There is not enough to affect the oil level between changes.



I have tried to tightening up the 8 valve pan bolts and at best it would hold it off a few days and then it would return. When I take a close look at the rubber and metal washer that goes on each bolt, they look old and cracked. I picked up new ones and am going to replace them. I have a few questions though.



1) Does the oil have to be drained from the engine before I remove the valve pan or does all the oil drain to the motor?

2) Is their any advantage to having the heads re-torqued while I’m in there?

3) Is there anything I should be looking at while I am in here as far as PM that a simple minded fella could do?

4) Though I don’t think they have to be replaced, should I add some sort of gasket sealer to the gasket and then reinstall after it gets tacky or hardens up? I have heard that even new ones can leak a bit.

5) Is there anyone local that had the expertise and tools to check the valves? I would be willing to pay a bit for someone to teach me/show me how.



My background is the electronics, wiring and computers (IT). I know this is (should be) a simple procedure but I am always timid on doing new things that I could badly mess up my beloved bike. I see so many people mess up their computers and servers because they just don’t ask.



Thanks,



Tim.
 

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Be careful tighting the bolts that hold on the covers, they have a shoulder and will only go in so much.
Turning them tighter will strip the threads, or the bold will snap.
 

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:waving:Below are the Honda part numbersfor your GL1100:

valve cover gasket, 12328-371-000; new seals for the bolts, 90541-371-000.
 

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valve covers were leaking on my aspe.i took them off cleaned real good with brake clean.and then put thin coat of indian head sealer on no more leaks.:waving::waving:
 

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If I read the OPs post correctly, are you considering doing this without replacing the gasket? I realize some, such as Krazy Al may have gotten by with it. But as for me, if I were planning to do the work, I'd have a new gasket.

Bike Bandit shows the parts in stock. I'd just not want to do the work over again should your current gasket be damaged.

Two gaskets - $34
Eight rubber mounts - $28

No oil drips - Priceless!!! :)


http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...ycle-gl1100a-gold-wing-aspencade-1982/o/m2334
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Well,



I already have the rubber mounts. I don't "think" it is a very hard or time consuming thing to do. I really just wanted to know if I had to drain the oil or not and see what other PMI could do in there that would be warranted.



It's not the cost of the gaskets... just that if they don't have to be replaced then why do it? I can put that money towards SS brake lines (which I need more that the drip to be stopped).



If they leak from that point on, I will replace them. I will have the experience behind me at that point. It would be different if I was going a professional to have it done. The cost to have it redone would be equal to or more that the cost of the labour.



My labor is cheap!! ;)



Tim.
 

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you do not have to drain the oil. since you will have them off check and adjust valves if needed.:cool::action:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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Hi Freonrick,



That's where my experience and sense of adventure starts to thin out. I don't know the first thing about checking the valves. I would love to, but I don't.



That's where I am looking for the local talent. ;)



Tim.
 

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It's really a pretty simple process to check the valve lash. You'll need two feeler gauges, a .004" for the intake valves and a .005" for the exhaust valves. With the covers off turn the engine over (with the starter while the kill switch is off so it won't fire) untilboth of the rockers on one of the cylinders has a little bit of play or looseness. Slip the .004 feeler gauge blade into the gap between the end of the rocker and the intake valve stem. The intake valve stem is the one directly below the intake runner from the carburetor for that cylinder. Loosen the locknut, turn the screw until there's just a slight drag on the feeler as you move it and snug up the lock nut. Repeat the process with the .005 for the exhaust valve and then turn the engine over to free up the rockers on the next cylinder. I'd recommend replacing the rocker cover seals. You can use some sealant on them but once the get old and hard changing them is the best. I use super glue to stick the seals to the rocker cover to make it easier to put them on the engine without falling off in the process.
 

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I just put new valve cover gaskets on my GL1100, and no more drip!. Igot tired of oily shoes.



I tried using sealant on the old ones, and the leak always came back. I was surprised how much the new ones compressed during install. The olde ones were stiff and has taken a set. Before, the bolts were easily tighted to the shoulder, and with the new ones it was not so easy. Do yourself a favor, get new seals!



My $.02 forwhat it's worth ($.02 I guess.....)
 

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as i stated before i used indian head sealer to try to stop leak.just a few drops. while my new gaskets were on order.still have new gaskets waiting for when old ones start leaking.done a couple months ago and about 2000 miles still good no leaks.also done valves.:D:D
 
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