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Mr Magic Fingers wrote:
I’ll write more!! Any request?
Tim.
1. Steering head bearings? I never took my triple tree off yet, but I should soon.

2. A really pretty step by step of valve adjustment would be great, I'm kind of scared to do this and get it wrong.

Thanks for all the help! I need it!
 

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Hey Brianinmaine,

To quickly answer your questions:



1) The thought of having to remove the fairing really turns me off. So far so good. I have had no issues in the area at all. I would document the crap out of it if I had to do it… just so I could get it back together again!

2) I am with you on this too. I replace my valve cover gaskets about a month ago. I asked around and there were no takers to help me with the adjustments.



Like I said before, I love working on the bike but when it comes to stuff where I don’t fully 100% grasp the procedure and there is no one there to show me, I probably will not do the job myself.

I have paid people in the past to do jobs for me and I actually did the work. They were really just paid to show me and supervise me. I don’t mind getting that type of experience if I have to. Some things a really simple like the Trunk Relocation project I just completed and posted on Sunday. That was a fun and easy one.

As far as the valve adjustment goes, I’ll do a write up on that for sure when I finally get it done. So if there is anyone out there that has experience doing these and would like to co-author a “How To” please let me know.

Tim.
 

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Thanks for the play by play Tim. I'm not having any problems with a sluggish starter just yet, but when I do; I'll definitely come back to this thread. Nicely done! :)
 

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Hi Everyone,



In a reply to another thread on why I decided to "refresh" my starter I wrote the following. I though you might like to know my reasoning for why I chose to even consider the starter.



I was having a difficult time in starting my bike from time to time. It sometimes took 2 pushes of the button to get her to ignite and the odd time 3. That’s when I decided to clean the started.

In my case though, before I cleaned the starter, I measured the voltage drops at various points around the electrical system… including the wires going to the coils from which they get the power boost up. When my starter was acting up, there was a considerable drop in the voltage going the ignition system. At some points it was below 7.5 volts. The starter was simply sucking the juice from the system. My battery is in its 3[suP]rd[/suP] year and I am sure not at 100%. This did have its effects in this scenario.

As I was cranking the system there was simply not enough spark getting to ALL the plugs. The engine would not start and sometimes after a bit got flooded making the problem worse and killing the idea of a quick getaway.

When it did start, it ran rough until the RPM’s got high enough for the charging system to kick in and then it smoothed out and idled much better. I could see the exact second where the threshold was broken through and the charging system would provide the “running power” on both my DMM and my O-scope.

As a side note, I also found that if I delayed the turning on of the headlamp for 5 to 10 seconds that it greatly helped this system during this troubling time.

When I cleaned my starter it was like night and day. The bike started like it hasn’t for quite some time… almost instant. My voltage and current readings are where I would expect them to be when starting now. The system is much more relaxed.

I would suspect that a lot of Wingers out there that have these old Wings would get another year or two from their battery if their starter were cleaned up. It is the largest draw on the system. Let’s face it… we replace the batteries when they start to fail when starting the bike. Keep that draw to a minimum.

From what I learned from this experience is that I will be doing two things this fall when the bike is put away for her long winter nap and that is:



1) I will build a headlight start up delay circuit. Very easy to build and will help in problems like this.

2) I will be wiring the coils directly to the battery with lower gauge wire and use a high quality relay for the switching. I really don’t think that corroded, small gauge 27 year old wire is doing the trick anymore.





Tim.
 

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My starter is dragging. I have heard to be careful with the gear in the engine falling back into the engine. Looking at your pictures I cannot see where it might fall. Is that why some want you to do it on the side stand? Is there any way to insure it does not happen? Thanks for the lesson.
 

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Hi Cloudmaker,

I was a bit nervous too about that too. Now that I have done it I can't see how either. You would have to pop it out of the "bicycle chain".

Unless your the proverbial bull-in-the-china-shop your not going to have any problems.


Tim.
 

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I did mine on the side stand (I have a gravel driveway, & getting the beast on the center stand is a minor challenge at home), but would have no hesitation popping it on the center stand now that I've done it too...

(oh, and yeah, we're all a little nervous first time :) )

Again, I was kinda surprised how easy the thing reinstalled...that was my big worry.
 

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Excellent write up Tim! When I was a Systems Engineer, I very quickly learned to present my directions as exact as possible (with lots of screen-dumps). Your write-up here has the photos to replace the screen-dumps... lol... I really enjoyed reading this thread and will for sure utilize it on my starter. Thanks
 

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Mr Magic Fingers wrote:
Just about everything I do to the bike I document with pictures. I have 100’s (I do photography too) of detail pictures. I like creating the “how to” articles but there are way more experienced people out there. Who am I to say how something is done?
I do the same thing, which is why I have all the "How To" articles on my site. I follow the service manual, put in some tips from others that I've read, and add some common sense. Don't worry about it - if you get something wrong, or need something added, people will let you know, and then you can add that in!
 

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This is one great write up thanks very much, my 1977 looks just like this. I'm having 1 little problem with the front assembly I removed the Circlip but the shaft won't slide out, I'll see if a rubber mallet will work.
 

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Mr. Majic Fingers, can't thank you enough. Great job! I now feel good about doing this job myself.

What a great forum!

Thanks to all who replied!
 

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Cloud Maker, if you tilt the bike as far as you can to the left before removing the starter, it will coat the chain gear causing it to "stick" to the back wall of the housing making it less likely to fall into the bottom of the housing. An old timer gave me that tip.
 

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Used your instructions for my 86 GL1200. The starters are a bit different which require a couple of extra steps to remove it. I had to drop the pipes, left case guard and shift lever to get access. One exhaust port stud must be removed to get the starter out. I found more parts inside my starter ( o-rings and gasket) than the factory parts manual has listed. I'm rather disappointed at this but I will find out tomorrow if this really is an issue. Thanks for your detailed pictures Mr. Fingers!
 

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Beautifully done article.I very much appriciated it,as I will be doing the same soon on my 82 Interstate. THANKS marty
 

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I used common solder to fix that



brianinmaine wrote:
Only thing I would like to add: when removing/installing the nut with the wire on it, use a thin 10mm wrench to hold the stud below. I loosened up mine and twisted the stud breaking the wires inside. I had to buy a new starter. Just a word to the wise!
 

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Finished my GL1200 starter refresh...a couple of valuable words. The refresh was very much worth the effort because my starter really turns the engine over well. On my starter, cleaning the commutator and getting the dust from the eroded brushes out of the end cap were the most effective part of the operation. My brushes still had some good meat on them so I reinstalled them instead of putting new brushes in that needed to break in (with all that dust again). The rebuild kit has an O ring to seal the gear-reduction case that was different than the gasket that I removed. It worked well enough to hold a vacuume in the gear-reduction case, perhaps I had a ******* seal to begin with. Long story short...the only new parts installed were new O rings and my starter works like a new one.
 

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icechopper wrote:
Finished my GL1200 starter refresh...a couple of valuable words.

Awesome!!

Glad it worked out well for you. I am glad that you posted your findings too so that other 1200 owners will know what to expect.So many people want to replace the brushes when there is absolutely not need to do so. It just causes extra ware and tare while the break in and seat.

Even the 80 and 81's will probably have some good meat left on them. However, if they are chipped (which I have seen) they should be replaced. After 30 years or so, most brushes are only worn 50% or so. Why add new brushes to accelerate that process when you done need to.

I have never been one to follow the "while your in there" idea on something that is so easy to get at and open up. It's not like a head gasket. In this case, being proactive can land you in the dog house earlier.

Thanks again for the reply!

Tim.
 
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