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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just completed a nine-month restore on my 82A, and took it for its first hour-long run up to Athens tonight. Runs like an absolute dream at highway speeds, has loads of power off the line, a superb rebuild if I do say so myself. The problem comes in the idle speed. When stopping at a light after running at highway speeds (down shifting as I slow down), the engine speed won't get below 3k, even with no throttle. When I lightly push down on the sync-adjustment screw on carb 4, it immediately drops to correct idle speed. However, it slowly creeps back up and would approach 3k if I let it. Push down lightly on the sync screw again, and it drops to correct speed. Repeat as necessary. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thx.
 

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I assume you have synched the carbs? May be some wear in the linkage but the spring on the throttle shaft is supposed to hold tension against the linkage to compensate for wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Synced yesterday, and it made a huge difference in how it ran (I actually have never seen such a big difference in the way an engine ran pre and post sync). Now, though, the issue is the climbing idle speed.
 

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It is my understanding that the vacuum advance on the 1100 is ported (off idle).
Is it possible you already had vacuum applied to the advance during your sync?
Disconnect the vacuum advance hose and see if it makes a difference in the way it idles.
Re-sync your carbs with the vacuum advance disconnected.
Then drive it with it disconnected and see if it still hangs high. Could be the advance sticking or the throttle plates open too wide.
 

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Had the same problem with my 83 after doing the carbs and other things when getting it back on the road. Check the routing of your throttle cables, if they are not routed the right way they will cause exactly that. Also check the adjustment on them for the right amount of slack both push and pull.
 

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Synced yesterday, and it made a huge difference in how it ran (I actually have never seen such a big difference in the way an engine ran pre and post sync). Now, though, the issue is the climbing idle speed.
My question is, are you absolutely sure you are syncing it the right way? I ask because this is the exact same $#!T I had when when I was dong it wrong and to be honest it's a subject some want to keep pretty close to their chest, I dunno why, so here's the real deal!!


 

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It aint rocket science
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There is no secret about it.:) A sync is the icing on the cake and gets done as the last item after ignition, compression and mixture settings are correct. And if carbs are removed it gets a static sync prior to installation back on the ride.

It is not a cure all for a poor running machine.
 

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Chilidawg, you made reference to the fact that you were doing it wrong but I didn't see from the videos exactly what you were doing wrong. Could you elaborate please?

Thanks,
Steve
 

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the video is the correct way to do it. if not i am doing it wrong too.
 

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I don't understand the comment about some "tight vested secret". All the videos are pretty much the same. There has never been a lack of information on the subject. Unless you got bad advise from someone who "thought" they knew how to do it.
By the way. The rack stays where removed for clarity. If you sync your carbs, you need to do it with the stays in place. Installing them after can tweak the bodies and possibly throw the sync out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, as always, loads of great guidance. I had a spare carb set laying around with a complete undamaged linkage, and I think it did the trick. We'll find out tomorrow on the ride to work. Thanks again to Chilidawg for the great video links (that was the unvarnished sound of butt-kissing in all its splendor!!).

On a completely unrelated note, I discovered tonight that my indicator switch isn't broken, and that the engineers at Honda knew that when I have my brights on I am probably only going to change lanes, not direction, and thus don't want the indicators to remain on until cancelled by the auto-cancel. Pwetty smawt wabbits, they are!!
 

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On a completely unrelated note, I discovered tonight that my indicator switch isn't broken, and that the engineers at Honda knew that when I have my brights on I am probably only going to change lanes, not direction, and thus don't want the indicators to remain on until cancelled by the auto-cancel. Pwetty smawt wabbits, they are!!
Never heard of that before. I'll have to check into it.
 
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