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Thanks to everyone here for offering advice, yesterday I undertook the changing of my timing belts. It took me about 2 hours, and about an hour of that was getting the hard-to-get-to ilder pully bolts loose on the right side belt. It would have taken half as long if the rad wasn't in the way.

I was paranoid about the whole thing and checked and rechecked the pulley and crank positions at every step. Pulling the old belts off was a bit of a job, getting the new ones on was much easier once I figured out you put the belt on the main pulley, get it on the cam pulley, pull it taut, then slip it over the tensioner wheel. Check the positions of the pulley and crankshaft, and that was it.

I knew everything checked out, but I still cringed the first time I hit the starter. It started right up and ran perfectly. The old (cracked, worn) belts are in the trash, and I no longer worry about riding a bike with an interference engine and worn timing belts.

Thanks everyone!
 

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This is somthing I am thinkking about doing my Goldwing has 70,000 miles on it and I dont know what condition the belts are in .... larry
 

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 You can get down to looking at the old belts in less than 2 hours..and make your decision... The real problem is .. if they are cracked , and gungy looking  you WILL want to replace them .. and you have to do the same work to "Look" as Replace ... If I were you.. I would find my nearest NAPA dealer, and get a set of $17 Gates 070 (I think .. check this ), and read  up in every manual  on the entire procedure (Clymer, Honda, Haynes ) , and get your workshop all ready.. its really not hard... just very fiddly..and since we are not Professional wrenches... time consuming , because we want to do it right.. SilverDave/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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2 hours is good going if you haven't done this before, well done. :clapper:
 

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I did mine in the spring and I would have been happy with a 2 hour job - I have since sold my 82 1100 and nowride a 89 1500. Lots of good memories - enjoy your bike it is a classic :waving:

Mike



PS - you must be right down the road - hey fellow cCevelander
 

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I tried and changed mine. I took the belts off and placed the new ones on. I went to crank it and it sounded like it was on three cylinders. I re aligned all of the timing marks and it still didn'y work. I checked the compression on the right side and there was none. checked on the left side and there was compression. does it sound like bent valves on 1,3 and 5 cylinders? I need some help quik please.
 

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GSMacLean wrote:
I'm a new Clevelander. Never been here before a year ago this week. Moved here in May. I love it!
Cleveland! "the Mistake on the Lake!!" :dude:

Few years ago, there was such a problem with cocaine there that the hospitals started a billboard campaign to offer treatment services. The billboard said:

"if you need cocaine, call (phone number)"

They had to discontinue the # because of the volume of people calling wanting to BUY it.

Bad city, man. Careful where you go.
 

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Yes. i took the head off and the 1,3 and 5 valve look bent. I need instruction on after I get the head redone. the 2,4 and 6 are fine. how can I align the tomong marks after I get the head back?
 

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It's too late for mrunnels but a reminder for all you folks who haven't changed belts but are thinking about it. We've had several members damage engines doing this job and there's really no reason for it to happen.

1. Make sure you have the engine set on the T mark before beginning.

2. Mark the pulleys and case next to the pulleys with a marking pen once the mark is set in the window so that you can make sure nothing has moved.

3. NEVER, NEVER, turn the engine or the cam pulleys with the belts off. If the right hand (bike's right) pulley spins when you pull the belt off, turn it back to the mark you made in the opposite direction that it spun.

4. Once you have the belts on, the spark plugs removed (for a more sensitive feel), the engine transmission in neutral, TURN THE ENGINE OVER SLOWLY WITH A WRENCH ON THE CRANKSHAFT NUT feeling for any thing that feels like a click or clunk or a resistance to turning. If such is felt you may have a belt out of time and the valve is hitting the piston. RECHECK the belt timing! Do not start the engine or turn it over with the starter until you have verified there is no valve/piston interference If you don't make this check you WILL have damaged valves.

The belt change is an easy job but shouldn't be attempted until you are sure you know what you're doing and why. I wouldn't begin any job like this unless I had a service manual such as a Honda or Clymer manual on hand. Do a search on the subject and you will learn a lot.

END OF RANT
 

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I have the manual and have change several on cars. I just thought that if I parked the bike and removed the belts and replaced them,I would be ok. once I get the head back, is there anything specific I need to watch for? Can I realign the timing marks and go from there?
 

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When you put it back together make sure the UP on the cam pulleys are right side up, the marks on the cam pulleys should line up with the case marks on the back of the belt cover they are at 0900 and 0300 on the bike's right and left pulleys respectively. The crank should be turned to the T1 mark in the timing window with cylinder #1 (front right) on TDC of the compression stroke. You really need a manual for working on these bikes, they are pretty complex compared to most motorcycles. Extremely reliable and long lived but things have to be done by the book. Sorry you had the mishap, probably get by with some replacement valves or a used head from a salvage company such as those listed at the top of this forum or eBay. Don't feel too bad you're not the only one who's been caught with this.
 

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mrunnels wrote:
I tried and changed mine. I took the belts off and placed the new ones on. I went to crank it and it sounded like it was on three cylinders. I re aligned all of the timing marks and it still didn'y work. I checked the compression on the right side and there was none. checked on the left side and there was compression. does it sound like bent valves on 1,3 and 5 cylinders? I need some help quik please.
Mrunnels, you said you RE-ALIGNED all timing marks? How far off were they? If you were running that engine with one or both cambelts off more than 3 teeth you more than likely bent some valves..

On that compression test showing no compression.. If you have 0 compression with the belts lined up correctly then you have valve problems.. If the right cam belt is off 180° then possibly only a belt problem as your pistonsare compressing on partially open valves..

Twisty
 

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I pulled the bike into the garage and ASSUMED (where i went wrong) that i would be able to pull off the old belts without moving anything and just put the new belts on. Since nothing moved or so I thought, i cranked it up and that's when it happened. I have the head off and am taking it to a machine shop today. Live and learn i guess.
 

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Hey GSMacLean:

I'm going to do my 83 Aspy belts in the next month or so. You mention that the "rad" was in the way. Down hear in Jax I think radiator when someone says "rad". Was it the radiator you're talkin' about. I thought you had to take it off to do the belts!!!:baffled:
 

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Yup, I was talking about the radiator.

I didn't want to pull it off, with the associated mess of coolant everywhere - so I loosened it, pulled it forward, and did the belts without removing the radiator. It would have been easier with it removed, but I managed.

It was a bit more difficult because I have an aftermarket dipstick that mounts in the oil drain plug hole, and it goes up in front of the radiator, so it had to be removed to move the radiator forward to get at the timing belt covers.
 
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