[diverjeff]

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Hey all,

Can anyone provide information on where to purchase rear air shock rebuild kit? Bike Bandit sells only the individual items and cannot recommend usual components that may fail.

Second, Has anyone had an angle sensor fail? My signals work, and will auto cancel after about 30 seconds but will not auto cancel immediately after turn. Angle sensor is only thing I can determine may be out.

Great board and I really appreciate any help.

Safety & blue skies,

DJ

 

[JOHNO]

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As for the canceling indicators, sometimes the weight in the forks sticks with corrosion, to fix it you need to remove the whole thing from the center of the forks and free it up. Mine normally sticks after a heavy spell of rain or after being left on the side stand for an extended period of time.

 

[Burleyman88]

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This may not help at all, but I recently found out, being a non-expert, that the speedometer is tied to the functionality of the directionals. (No speedo -no auto cancel). My speedo recently bit the dust, and in the few days before it totally froze up, I noticed that my signals seemed to be less willing to turn off immediately after a turn. Just a thought...... Bman

 

[rcmatt007]

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the auto canceler on the 1200 (cannot say about the 110A-didn't know honda had a 110cc wing...) is inside the steering stem so it turns with the steering mechnism. the wires come out the top of the stem.

as burley man mentions also if the speedometer is out they will not self cancel at all.

sounds like your sensor is either out, or the wiring isn't working right

 

[Burleyman88]

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Bet that 110 GW gets some great mileage..!! Wonder how well it handles hills??:shock:

hehehehe......The Mighty Bman

 

[rcmatt007]

imported post

Burleyman88 wrote:

Bet that 110 GW gets some great mileage..!! Wonder how well it handles hills??:shock:

hehehehe......The Mighty Bman

bet it has a tough time pulling a trailer

 

[cardkev]

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As for the rear shock rebuild kit, I wasn't able to find one. I bought new seals, disassembled and inspected the damper guides. They where fine, very little wear. The most important thing is to clean them out and fill with the proper amount of ATF fluid. After 23 years you will probably find very little oil in them. The oil that is in there will look like black goo. After gettign mine back together they werelike new. No more bottoming out.

 

[rcmatt007]

imported post

cardkev wrote:

As for the rear shock rebuild kit, I wasn't able to find one. I bought new seals, disassembled and inspected the damper guides. They where fine, very little wear. The most important thing is to clean them out and fill with the proper amount of ATF fluid. After 23 years you will probably find very little oil in them. The oil that is in there will look like black goo. After gettign mine back together they werelike new. No more bottoming out.

that does make me wonder what the S&W air shocks looks like on my '78... I bet they have been on the bike since about 1979. there would be no way to rebuild them now though.

 

[jackjohn]

imported post

that does make me wonder what the S&W air shocks looks like on my '78... I bet they have been on the bike since about 1979. there would be no way to rebuild them now though.

I didn't know Smith and Wesson made air shocks, are they 9mm or .45

 

[stretrod48]

imported post

Burleyman88 wrote:

This may not help at all, but I recently found out, being a non-expert, that the speedometer is tied to the functionality of the directionals. (No speedo -no auto cancel). My speedo recently bit the dust, and in the few days before it totally froze up, I noticed that my signals seemed to be less willing to turn off immediately after a turn. Just a thought...... Bman

I had the same thing happen to me and as soon as Igot the speedo working, the signal canceling started working again. :grinner::grinner::grinner:

 

[rcmatt007]

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somehow on the latest working on my wife's bike... I noticed to turn signals at all (she rode it and was unaware-go figure). so now I will begin the hunt for the ellusive connection or whatever that came undone

 

[DigbyODell]

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jackjohn wrote:

that does make me wonder what the S&W air shocks looks like on my '78... I bet they have been on the bike since about 1979. there would be no way to rebuild them now though.

I didn't know Smith and Wesson made air shocks, are they 9mm or .45

Man we are a bunch of smart:cooldevil:here aren't we:goofygrin: I love it....The deer and rabbits hate it but what do they know they can't even whistle:grinner:

 

[rcmatt007]

imported post

DigbyODell wrote:

jackjohn wrote:

that does make me wonder what the S&W air shocks looks like on my '78... I bet they have been on the bike since about 1979. there would be no way to rebuild them now though.

I didn't know Smith and Wesson made air shocks, are they 9mm or .45

Man we are a bunch of smart:cooldevil:here aren't we:goofygrin: I love it....The deer and rabbits hate it but what do they know they can't even whistle:grinner:

well if you can't laugh... all that is left is crying... so I will choose to laugh

 

[Gambler]

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cardkev wrote:

As for the rear shock rebuild kit, I wasn't able to find one. I bought new seals, disassembled and inspected the damper guides. They where fine, very little wear. The most important thing is to clean them out and fill with the proper amount of ATF fluid. After 23 years you will probably find very little oil in them. The oil that is in there will look like black goo. After gettign mine back together they werelike new. No more bottoming out.

I would like to hear more about that, and where you sourced the parts.

 

[cardkev]

imported post

I bought the seals from Bikebandit.com ($17 ea. + shipping).

Here is the procedure:

1. Release air pressure from rear. Put the bike on the center stand, unbolt one shock only to keep the swing arm from collapsing.

2. Remove the big circular clip from the underside of the shock (This takes a strong pair of those spring clip pliers!).

3. If you have an on-board compressor, slowly increase the rear air pressure until the insides of the shock blow out. USE AS LITTLE AIR AS POSSIBLE! Patience is the key. Be sure to wrap a rag around the lowerend of the shock and point it into a bucket. The rag prevents the dampers from gettng damaged by the end of the shock when they are blown out.

4. Clean out the shock housing (Use parts cleaner dip if possible). Inspect damper guides and shaft for wear. It's doubtful that the wear will be excess enough for replacement. You will see some light scoring.

5. Fill shock with clean ATF fluid (I have to look up the right amount). Reassemble with new oil seal (Lube the seal before pressing in). NOTE: There is a small circular wire spring steel clip that keeps the damper guide from traveling too far into the shock housing. Be sure it is in place and has not shifted out of it's shallow groove.

6. Bolt shock back on bike.

7. Repeat with other side.

Hope this helps. Good Luck!

 

[Gambler]

imported post

cardkev wrote:

I bought the seals from Bikebandit.com ($17 ea. + shipping).

Here is the procedure:

1. Release air pressure from rear. Put the bike on the center stand, unbolt one shock only to keep the swing arm from collapsing.

2. Remove the big circular clip from the underside of the shock (This takes a strong pair of those spring clip pliers!).

3. If you have an on-board compressor, slowly increase the rear air pressure until the insides of the shock blow out. USE AS LITTLE AIR AS POSSIBLE! Patience is the key. Be sure to wrap a rag around the lowerend of the shock and point it into a bucket. The rag prevents the dampers from gettng damaged by the end of the shock when they are blown out.

4. Clean out the shock housing (Use parts cleaner dip if possible). Inspect damper guides and shaft for wear. It's doubtful that the wear will be excess enough for replacement. You will see some light scoring.

5. Fill shock with clean ATF fluid (I have to look up the right amount). Reassemble with new oil seal (Lube the seal before pressing in). NOTE: There is a small circular wire spring steel clip that keeps the damper guide from traveling too far into the shock housing. Be sure it is in place and has not shifted out of it's shallow groove.

6. Bolt shock back on bike.

7. Repeat with other side.

Hope this helps. Good Luck!

thanks cardkev

 

[exavid]

imported post

Burleyman88 wrote:

Bet that 110 GW gets some great mileage..!! Wonder how well it handles hills??:shock:

hehehehe......The Mighty Bman

Probably better than REDWING's Honda 50:cheeky1:

 

[diverjeff]

imported post

Hey,

This is exactly what I was looking for. I too found the individual parts from Bikebandit.com with an "exploded" view of the rear cushion.

As said before, "You all are awsome."

Respectfully,

Jeff (with a pancake on my head)

 

[hitechluddite]

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Doesn't progressive still sell a rebuild kit for the stock rears on the 1100? Granted they will cost allot more than $34 but they were sweet on mine, didn't have to use hardly any air and the damping was great!