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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 1982 Honda Goldwing 1100, when I went to look at it they had to charge the battery to start it, it turned over and ran for about 5 minutes perfectly fine. Well when I got it to my house I bought a new battery for it, followed all directions for the battery got it all hooked up and got nothing but a clicking from the battery area. I took the battery back to Walmart to have it tested and turns out its a bad battery. Did the same thing with the second new battery and now ill get one click and nothing. I even tried jumping the bike with my truck and it won't turn over at all, just the same clicking sound. Any suggestions on what may be going on or how to fix this problem?
 

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1. Put the battery on a slow charge for 24hr before trying to start.
2. Clean both pos and neg connections at battery frame and at solenoid
3. Pull plugs and try to turn over. May be hydro locked.
4. Jump starter direct to battery MAKE SURE ITS IN NETURAL
The above steps will help to solve the problem
 

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WELCOME TO THE FORUM JACOB,if you will follow the advice given here you will soon be riding ,these guys now these goldwings,but its important that you follow what they say and give as much information to them as you can,
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok It may be that I didn't charge the battery long enough because the longest I charged it was six hours like the directions said. Ill give then a try and if there are any other problems ill write back with some more info.
 

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Be sure, to eliminate the 3 yellow wired plug behind the left side panel, in front of the battery, even if it looks good, that thing is responsible for more GL1100 charging problems than anything else!

Just wire around it, don't matter which wire goes to which, just wire around it!!
 

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1. Put the battery on a slow charge for 24hr before trying to start.
2. Clean both pos and neg connections at battery frame and at solenoid
3. Pull plugs and try to turn over. May be hydro locked.
4. Jump starter direct to battery MAKE SURE ITS IN NETURAL
The above steps will help to solve the problem

#3 comes to mind , IF you didn`t turn off the fuel valve ! !
 

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Hi Jacob, All good thoughts. Couple more things to look at:
  • Battery cable connection at starter relay
  • Poor connection at starter relay to start button wire
  • loose or poor battery ground cable or wires
  • Your Wing has "interlock" so the bike must be in netural, kill switch in run, etc.
Your bike may not be charging as "childawg" was saying. This could explain why it ran fine for 5 mins then would not re-start. there are a ton of posts on the charging system.

Lastly, on the 1200, there is a "dog-bone" 30A fuse to the right of the battery that supplies power to the starter (not sure if its the same on your 1100). This fuse is know to physically break because it's mounted in plastic. With your bike just "clicking", you could be hearing the starter relay energizing, but with no power (dog-bone fuse bad) the starter will not spin.

Best of luck, please let us know....
 

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the 30A dogbone has nothing to do with the starter,it supplies power to the mc,the charging is usually fed to the battery terminal side of the dogbone,check that when when u press the start switch the yellow/red wire on the solenoid gets a 12V signal,the green/red wire is the solenoid ground wire,key on or off shorting the two large terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver should make the starter work,if not clean and check the negative battery cable at the battery and the frame
 

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Welcome Jacob. Lots of advice and it's likely that someone already nailed the solution but I would offer the following advice. There are 2 things you could to do damage your bike here.

First, when you try to jump start it with another vehicle, NEVER start/run the other vehicle or the vehicle's charging system may damage your bikes system.

Second, if the bike's engine should be hydro-locked (cylinders filled with fuel leaking through petcock and carbs), trying to start it could bend connecting rods, etc. This doesn't sound like the case since you're only getting clicking when you turn the key. It is however, very important to know.

My money's on a simple bad connection on the starter or a bad ground. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
first off I would like to say thank you to everyone that posts and trying to help with my problem, it is much appreciated. so here is the newest info, I let the battery charge for a full 24 hours and in that time I very well cleaned all the positive and negative cables on the battery, solenoid, and the starter. this morning I hooked the battery up, turned the key and tried to start it but all I got was the same clicking from the solenoid. from the little knowledge I know I tried touching the positive and the negative terminals on the solenoid with a screw driver (with the clutch in) and the bike fired up and ran with the clutch in. would this mean either the solenoid or the starter is bad? or both? I also have the bike up on its main stand with the back tire off the ground, when I release the clutch the tire spins and the bike will die. I have the bike in what Im pretty positive is neutral but I cannot get it to idle on its own. some info about the bike I forgot to mention was that it was dumped on its left side and there was no bad damage other then the forks being bent and I am currently in the process of replacing (just waiting on the new forks to arrive). other then the forks being bent there are just a few scratches and nothing but cosmetic issues. what would be the next steps to take?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I also forgot to mention that the dogbone fuse is fine, there was a spare so I just replaced it with the new one even though the one on it was ok.
 

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Good morning,
Based on what your saying starter is OK. On the clutch lever there is a switch on the bottom side two wires running to it remove these two wires and jumper them togeather and see if that solves your problem. If it does replace clutch safety switch. Let us know what happens
 

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from what you said..jumping the pos/neg on the solenoid and it started right up..most likely a bad solenoid..by pos/neg you should be meaning the two big posts on the top of the solenoid..right??? Second choice is a bad starter switch or wiring from it to the solenoid. As to the wheel spinning in neutral it will..but you should be able to stop it with your hand or foot, if not it's not in neutral.

As to it dying when you put it in gear..idle set to low or carbs way out of synch or some cylinder not firing or very low compression ifthe little bit of torque the wheel applies kills it.

Also bent forks usually takes a really hard fall/bump not just falling over on its' side????

Do a compression check..throttle wide open, all plugs out, gas off if yoiu get reading above 140 and close together you are OK ..170 is perfect.

Note these bikes will run on two cylinders if all is well with the bike otherwise.
 

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Jacob, could be a bad starter relay. Had problems similar to yours and found the fusable link on the relay was broken just enough to start sometimes then not start. drove me nuts till i just happened to look down and saw the slight gap. Cost me .98 cents to fix. I am sure you know about the choke on them. Real sensitive (or at least mine is). I have an '81 Interstate. The idle should be right at 900 to 1000 rpms. That is about all I can suggest. Hope u get it running.
 

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If you hit the starter button and it clicks at the solenoid then probably all is fine with switch and wires or the solenoid would not click.

If jumping across the solenoid starts the bike, then it's probably a bad solenoid. If the starter works fine when you jump the solenoid then there is nothing wrong with the starter.

My best guess looking at those 2 things is that the solenoid does try to kick in so it clicks but it is not making good contact internally so no power flows through it. Of course still check that it is grounded correctly and all wires are clean.

If all is working correct there is a Green light that should be lit when in neutral, I think it is between the Speedo and Tach, near the fuel and temps gauges.
Easiest way to see if your in neutral or not is just have rear wheel off the ground and with engine off spin it by hand. If it does not turn then it is in gear, if it turns round and round then in neutral LOL

Yes if there is no drag or resistance on the rear wheel on many bikes it will spin when in neutral, try putting on the rear brake! LOL
If it really bogs down the engine then your in gear, if wheel just stops turning without effecting the engine your in neutral. LOL

While your working on it don't worry about the Kill Switch, even if it's turned to off the bike will crank on starter fine, it just won't start! If you are in Neutral no worry about the clutch switches either, it will try to start rather clutch is in or out if in neutral. If your in gear and the clutch is out then you should not get anything at all, not even a click. If you are in gear and clutch out with your headlight on Highbeam the blue light should go out and headlight dim allot or go off if you hit the starter button but you won't get anything else, no clicks and no cranking.

Yes, I just ran out in my yard in my underwear at 5:30 in the morning and verified all that on my 82 1100I LOL
 

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same problem

first off I would like to say thank you to everyone that posts and trying to help with my problem, it is much appreciated. so here is the newest info, I let the battery charge for a full 24 hours and in that time I very well cleaned all the positive and negative cables on the battery, solenoid, and the starter. this morning I hooked the battery up, turned the key and tried to start it but all I got was the same clicking from the solenoid. from the little knowledge I know I tried touching the positive and the negative terminals on the solenoid with a screw driver (with the clutch in) and the bike fired up and ran with the clutch in. would this mean either the solenoid or the starter is bad? or both? I also have the bike up on its main stand with the back tire off the ground, when I release the clutch the tire spins and the bike will die. I have the bike in what Im pretty positive is neutral but I cannot get it to idle on its own. some info about the bike I forgot to mention was that it was dumped on its left side and there was no bad damage other then the forks being bent and I am currently in the process of replacing (just waiting on the new forks to arrive). other then the forks being bent there are just a few scratches and nothing but cosmetic issues. what would be the next steps to take?
Hi I had the same problem make sure you are getting the12 volt on the wire coming from the push button to the solenoid , the push button may have a bad connection not getting the 12 volt she needs now that has been said sometimes the is just dirty or the problem may be down the line start at the button to see if you have the 12 volt then work backwards from there let us know what you find
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well here is the latest... I made sure all the wires from the starter button to the relay, on the relay, on the battery and the starter were getting the right amount of power and they are so i put in an order for a new solenoid and am waiting on that to arrive. in the mean time i managed to find another problem i wasn't exactly expecting and will need some information on how to get this one fixed. i received my new forks in the mail and know very little about them other then how to take them on and off the bike. so i put them back on get all my bolts tight and lower it off the jack stand, as soon as its free standing with all the weight of the bike the forks completely compress and it is sitting way too low to the ground. how do i fix this? i know they take oil but is that all you have to do, just fill them with the right amount of oil so they don't completely compress? or is there some way you have to pressurize them? if its just the oil what kind do you have to use, how much, and do you just fill from the top caps or do you have to completely disassemble the forks? any information is appreciated!
 

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Welcome to the Forum, Jacob. Your posts are clear and concise, and you get back with results quickly -- all very positive practices and appreciated by the mechanics who help us all.

I think you would find a Honda service manual helpful. They're available for about $35 online, and there are (pirate?) manuals that you can download for free and print what you need when you need it. (Search this forum.) Hope this helps.

http://goldwingdocs.com/Manuals.asp?type=GL1100&year=1982
 

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As far as pressurizing the forks, there should be an air valve at the top of the right fork tube, with a crossover tube going under the dash area to the left fork tube. It would be a good idea to pull the drain plug on both fork tubes, and letting them drain completely. After that, replace the drain plugs, and add ATF transmission fluid to both forks from the top caps. (I think it is 8 ozs per tube with factory springs.) Be SURE that the front wheel is off the ground, and both forks are completely extended before unscrewing the caps. Even then, the caps are under spring pressure, so be careful. I ended up taking a cap to the forehead the first time I opened one! After putting the fluid in, I found it easiest to replace the caps by using a 2' long piece of 2x2 board with a notch cut in one end, the width of the ridge on the cap. Gives you a lot more to work with when trying to recompress the springs. After they are back together and the crossover tube reinstalled, put air in the right valve. (I think it is 14psi max) Should get the front end right where you want it.
 

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....and when you put air in, make sure not to use a compressor unless you have a water filter attached - and even then, I wouldn't use it. A manual bike pump works well and you won't contaminate the oil with water.
 
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