83 Aspencade charging...

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Money_Pit, Welcome to the forum. As you probably know, the folks here have a vast bank of knowledge. If one member doesn't know what a problem maybe...some one else does!

As Hatchetman stated, the early wings are great. I like to compare them to the early ford v8's, you can beat on them all day and they just keep going.

Terry

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I appreciate the responses on this. So I guess L.E.D it is.


Thx Bill

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If you ever have the engine out of frame, I am having my stator rewound for more output for $138CND.

James
PS;
I know the feeling of owning what seems like a money-pit I have two.

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I just found this 1...is this a good deal? Says it's 20% more output than stock. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-GL1100-Goldwing-Interstate-Aspencade-1980-1983_W0QQitemZ120433789071QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c0a69c88f&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A12|39%3A1|72%3A317|240%3A1318

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I just put a set of aftermarket driving lights on it (55w Halogen each)

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There's the problem. Mine had them as well, and the battery almost went dead one day on a ride as the voltage below 2k wouldn't get above 12.6 with them on. Haven't used them since.



The stator doesn't put out much voltage anyway, so combine a 60w headlight, two 55w aux and all the other side markers and taillight...bingo.

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I dont know if that stator is a good deal or not. Mabey others here have tried them.

To replace it, the motor comes out which can be a marathon of wrenching.

Do a search on this forum in the search box for "poor boy conversion" It is a kit you can buy that bolts a GM alt to the outside of the motor. It is driven off the front crank pully & the alt is mounted on the left underside of the fairing. looks good & will power as many lights as you can bolt on your wing!

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i was told by nice knowlegable, not me i cannor even spell:cheeky1:you cannot run 55 watt lights to much draw. your stator is ok, try 35 watts



mark:waving:

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If you are using a battery that is in decent shape and a starter in good working order then, It will still start as low as 10.4 volts. At least ours would. We used 10.9 as an absolute minimum that we would allow it to reach. Rarely would the voltage drop that low.



Do remember to account for the fan draw as it is significant, accounting for a full 1 volt drop while on.



Crusing for hours at 12 volts even mid 11 volts causes no significant issues with the bike starting.

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hatchetman wrote:

I dont know if that stator is a good deal or not. Mabey others here have tried them.

To replace it, the motor comes out which can be a marathon of wrenching.

Do a search on this forum in the search box for "poor boy conversion" It is a kit you can buy that bolts a GM alt to the outside of the motor. It is driven off the front crank pully & the alt is mounted on the left underside of the fairing. looks good & will power as many lights as you can bolt on your wing!

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I think I am going to do that conversion, doesn't look to hard and The more lights the better IMO. Thx for the info very much!

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what is the 3 wire fix on a 1983 wing

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jimmyman1 wrote:

what is the 3 wire fix on a 1983 wing

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The 3 wire fix is the three yellow wires coming from the stator at rear left of your engine & going to a plug under your battery cover. the plug over heats & you loose connection or they short out. The remedy is to cut the plug out & sodder the 3 yellow wires back together. The order does not matter as long as all 3 are re connected. It is a very comman electrical fault. The plug is only there to allow for engine removal.

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thanks for the come back. I will start sodering tommorow. what is the best way to soder the wires thanks

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I found after a fair bit of experimentation that the two 55 watt lights were too much for the GL1100's charging system, and put too much strain on the battery, particularly when not at cruise (i.e. stop and go, low speed riding, idling).

I did however find that replacing the 55 watt bulbs with 35 watt KC Hi-Lite bulbs worked perfectly - I can run them without over-taxing the electrical system, and they put out the same light as the 55 watt bulbs. I did however wire in a relay to my neutral switch, so that it turns the lights off when I am in neutral (as the bike can not even charge the battery at idle, let alone run 70 watts of lights on top of it).

If you do a search online here, you'll find a fairly long thread I started that details this whole escapade.

As for soldering the yellow wires, have a look at this page.

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A new question. I went to change out the h4 bulb on my gold wing Aspencade. One small problem how do you get to the H4 buld. Seems to be barried behind the fairing. The manual does not say how to change the bulb. Help Jimmyman1

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I bought 35W extra lights as well. I think replacing tail and marker lights with T53 LEDs is a good idea as well.

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jimmyman1 wrote:

A new question. I went to change out the h4 bulb on my gold wing Aspencade. One small problem how do you get to the H4 buld. Seems to be barried behind the fairing. The manual does not say how to change the bulb. Help Jimmyman1

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Look at the back of the fairing, you'll see the little knob that adjusts the headlight up and down. Turn it until you see the set screw. Unscrew the set screw, and pull the knob off the shaft.

Loosen and remove the nut and washer from the shaft. Gently push the shaft in, while holding the light from the front (it will come out as you push the shaft).

Reinstallation is reverse of removal.

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It worked I have a new front head light. I thought I was going to have to take the fairing off. I just bought tow new LED. lights for the tail light. Has any one tried LED out? Jimmyman1