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I'm at the point now where I'm starting to doubt my brake bleeding ability.Should be sooooo simple.Hook up the bleed tube,open the bleeder,pump the brake pedal,close the bleeder.When the brake fluid runs clear and no air comes out you're done.

Using the mityvac or the old fashioned tube in a jar.I'd prefer the old fashioned way.

Can we just get fundamental here like I was nine years old and tell me how to bleed the brakes.

On the '83 they have linked brakes.The right front gets bled first then the rear gets it.

In fact I did a poor job on the left front too now that I think of it.

WTF?
 

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the linked brake to the front is a real PITA to bleed.... air gets up in there and it is very difficult to displace.... you just have to keep at it

now as to your ability with the front master to brake, cannot comment there, other than you may have a tiny bubble at the banjo
 

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Have you checked that the small port in the m/cyl is clear??
If so have you considered trying reverse bleeding,by using a syringe and tube on the bleed nipple and forcing fluid backwards up to the master cyl.I understand this is how the manufacturers fill the system with fluid so must be pretty quick and reliable.

Regards Steve
 

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I'm getting some action and by that I mean the right front is bleeding wet air.A bit of brake fluid and some air but it never really gets it done...know what I mean.
So I have to just keep at it?
Steve I have not tried the syringe to the bleed nipple but if this keeps up I may use a syringe on my own damn self!
So I'm back out there keeping at it.
 

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Yes master cylinder is clear...both ports.I'm getting some movement of air.Like a mm per pump.How many mm's are in there? A million?
 

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This should be so simple even...Gomer could do it but...here I am slowly pumping away.Air bubbles move along the clear tube by the milimeter.Seemingly endless stream of air bubbles.
This is ridiculous.Either that or a poor design.
If this was how the prototype worked out it'd never make it to production.Not with 700 pumps in an attempt to bleed one brake line!
Something else is wrong.Maybe I'm pulling air in through a bad upper front flex line?
Wish I had one to swap out and see if thats it without BUYING another part only to find out thats not the problem.I'm starting to troubleshoot like the dealership now!
 

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I think your best bet is to bleed them with a air operated vacuum bleeding gun. K-D tools sell them through places like Napa. The air goes thru a venturi and creates a vacuum. I've been a mechanic for 30 yrs. I had a Mighty vac but the brake fluid ruins the internals rather quick and I got tired of replacing them. The K-D bleeder I have now is designed for brake fluid. I've had it 10 yrs. and haven't had to replace a thing. It took me about 10 min. to bleed all 3 calipers on my 83 Aspencade. The K-D part number is 3578. It's around 80 bucks but well worth it if you work on brakes a lot.
 

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wing ding i realize you have not seen this bike or experienced this problem I'm having but are you of the opinion that these brakes may be bleedable and that I may NOT have an air leak somewhere along the line?
I'm about to look into new rear master cylinder,which I just rebuilt and new brake lines.Line run about two hundred for all three.Master cylinder is ? I don't know.The bleeder you mention is only $80.Sounds alright but then mityvac was $40 and it isn't getting the job done.
WWWD do? Thats "What would wing ding do"
I had the front flex line off to the right front and drew brake fluid through it using the mityvac.
The solid line that is connected to that flex line also draws brake fluid.
I can get brake fluid at the banjo bolt too.
But not through the bleeded nipple.It only spits wet air.Never really pulls solid fluid and of course I get no pressure in the brake pedal.
Thanks
 

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Pump up the pressure, then crack the banjo bolt on the caliper. Once you get clear fluid here then bleed normally. Another thing you can do is un-bolt the caliper and hang it as high as you can then attempt to bleed it that way. This is for the front one only, usually.
 

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I had a similar experience with my 84 Aspencade. I rebuilt the rearr caliper and it seemed like I pumped that brake pedal 200 times and was getting nothing each time I bled caliper. Was getting air and some fluid. I took a syringe and forced fluid up the line and pumped some more. What I wasnt doing and should have been was switch from front to back every few times. I finally did and Bingo, got brake pedal. All the air was hiding up in the front lines.
 

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Craig that had occured to me but I think I got blinded by my singlemindedness of purpose.I'm known for it!
I'll give it a go tomorrow.
Thanks
Bagmaster I'll give that a try in the morning.
Right now its MGD's and pizza time!
 

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tomw wrote:
wing ding i realize you have not seen this bike or experienced this problem I'm having but are you of the opinion that these brakes may be bleedable and that I may NOT have an air leak somewhere along the line?
I'm about to look into new rear master cylinder,which I just rebuilt and new brake lines.Line run about two hundred for all three.Master cylinder is ? I don't know.The bleeder you mention is only $80.Sounds alright but then mityvac was $40 and it isn't getting the job done.
WWWD do? Thats "What would wing ding do"
I had the front flex line off to the right front and drew brake fluid through it using the mityvac.
The solid line that is connected to that flex line also draws brake fluid.
I can get brake fluid at the banjo bolt too.
But not through the bleeded nipple.It only spits wet air.Never really pulls solid fluid and of course I get no pressure in the brake pedal.
Thanks
Of course you could have a leak somewhere. The thing is a Mityvac even new can leak internally and all the pumping in the world will not create enough vacuum and even leak air back in. The K-D bleeder uses shop air. You pull the trigger and it's a constant vacuum. I have fixed dozens of vehicles with this bleeder. My brother in law was trying to bleed the rear brakes on a car once after replacing the main rear line. He went thru 3 qts. of brake fluid trying the 'pump the pedal method. He finally called me. It took longer to drive the 3 miles to his house than it took to bleed that line.
 

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It's possible you have a frozen piston. These are really old bikes, and if they sit for long the metals lock up.

I'm having the reverse issue. My linked brakes work fine, but I have no front brake. Soon as I get some garage space I need to bleed the banjo bolt...
 

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Hello,

I've recently changed the oil in my 86 aspy, and I installed speed bleeders, these made the job really really easy. here they are:

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

the left front brake is notorious for trapping air, up at the bango bolt, screwed into the master cylinder, and it did with me.

The way I cleared it was (cover all paint work, and put catch rags up under the bolt, this stuff will wreck paint!!!) to loosen the bolt, pull the brake lever in, hold it, and tighten the bolt, and release the lever. it took almost to the bottom of the reservoir, repeating this, before small bubbles started to appear, and pressure came back to the lever.

it would take two people, but it might be worth a go, with the linked system.

good luck,
 

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oldishwinger I'll give it a try at the banjo bolt.Thanks.
 

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I was working on a friends 82 interstate the back brake wouldn't work...I tried and tried to bleed it and like you I got wet air...found it had a seized piston in the master cylinder. Bought a rebuild kit and fixed the problem.

I am not sure butI thought the 82 and 83 were alike...the 82 is linked with both front brakes on the hand lever and the back brake is alone on the pedal.

Check the piston in the master cylinder...you will have to remove the rubber boot to be sure that the travel you are seeing is actually moving the internal piston and not just the connecting rod.

Hope this helps.

Cerfer
 

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Cerfer07 wrote:
I am not sure butI thought the 82 and 83 were alike...the 82 is linked with both front brakes on the hand lever and the back brake is alone on the pedal.

Hope this helps.

Cerfer
:waving:The '82 and '83 are not alike! The '83 is the first year of the linked brake system. Onthe '83 the brake lever on the handlebar only controls the left front brake and the brake pedal controls the rear and right front and this is done through a proportioning valve.
 

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Hey Tom, when you open the bleed fitting, open it just enough to get some action with your mightyvac. Then disconnect the vacuum and bleed the old way by pumping and releasing into the cup. This aint no '72 Camaro, you're only gonna move a little bit of fluid on each stroke.
 

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For what it's worth.

First: Will definitelybuy K-D bleederWing Ding mentioned; my oldMighty Vac just takes too long. Second: Have '95 Wing w/sidecar. S/c brake's combined w/right front caliper at lever connection[pedal operates left front/rear caliper together]. Had no trouble bleeding rear system. Couldonly get tiny bit of front system lever feel afterhour of bleeding.In desperation, tried old mechanic's trick. Pumped lever up dozens of times[gettingbit of pressure]. Tied lever back TIGHT to bars with old shoelace. Let Wing sit overnight. Had to repeat this one more time and FINALLY got decent lever feel after trapped air migrated out. Front brakes now working OK.My 2 cents. TTFN & RIDE SAFE.....
 
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