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One of my fork legs was leaking, so I took both fork legs off. I know many of you have done this job yourself. My first quesiton is what parts should I order?Also, how difficult was the job? I know I need snap ring plyers to remove something along the way. I don't have my manual with me right now. I am sure it is in there.I also think there are some bushings in the fork assembly. Do most people replace those as well?



Thanks for all your input.



Ed
 

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Ed, you need the pliers to get at the circlip inder the dust boot. Put the leg in a vice (padded with a cloth) and after removing the fork cap and the circlip, undo the concealed Allen bolt in the base of the fork leg. That will allow you to pull the chrome fork slider out like a slide hammer, bringing the seal and washer with it. If the bushes at the bottom are worn through to the copper coat then its a good idea to replace them as well (they prevent side play which in turn stops the seal packing up too quickly), otherwise just leave them alone.
 

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I recently undertook the same job. I'd like to add to englishted's post that when you go to take out the allen head(cap screw) you might want to use an impact wrench. When I went to take out my screws, one came out just fine with an allen wrench. The other one promptly stripped out. YIKES! I said(or something like that) I got lucky with an e-z out but I wouldn't suggest that to anyone as if you break the ez out off in the bolt, thenyou have even more problems. The deal with the impact wrench is that it breaks the screw loose because of inertia, I believe. If you do strip out the head, I'd suggest just drilling the head off of the screw. Then when you pull out the tube, you'll have a stud to put some pliers on to remove.

Be really REALLY careful when you take off your fork caps as the springs are still under considerable pressure and could really punch you hard if you're not ready for it. I used a C-clamp to attach to the cap. It gives you more to hang onto. After I broke the cap loose, I turned the tubes instead of the valve(cap) until the cap lets go. I also used this method to put the caps back on. I just pushed in on the spring tension and rotated the tube until the cap was partially back in. Be VERY careful not to cross thread the cap when re-installing as it is fairly easy to do with such fine threads.

Finally(yes, I'm about done:action:) I hope you have more fun than I did getting the circlips out. I ended up grinding my snap ring pliers down because the holes in the circlips almost were in the groove where the clips go. Putting them back in is a snap(har har). Also, make sure that you put the seals back in correctly as the Clymer manual will have you installing them up-side down and you'll get to do the whole thing over again in afew miles.:(

Hope this helps.

Hobie

BTW, you'll want to order 2 fork seal kits and like englishted said, check the bushing as you may need them too. If you don't already have them, you might want to buy some Progressive springs for the front. They made a heck of a difference in the way my 83 Interstate handles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
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Thanks for your replies.



I have a local mechanic I deal with that will help me impact drive those two allen bolts loose. Looks like I need a piece of pvc pipe to make a punch to seat the new seals in place.



I will post again when I have the job done.
 

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Hey guys,

Looks like I will be performing this same procedure on my 82 GL1100. Just to clarify, though, I am having to add air pressure right before I go riding to my front suspension. I am seeing a small amount of lube leaking from the top seal on the right side as well. The pressure holds while I am riding, but if I let the bike sit for an hour or more, it squats back down and loses all pressure on me. I haven't caught it doing it yet, but then again I only have been off of it enough to sleep. :cheeky1:

Green tunnels and no stop signs,

Sterling
 

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Suggestion, upgrade to Progressive springs. I don't use air pressure anymore with the new springs.
 

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edzinohio wrote:
Suggestion, upgrade to Progressive springs. I don't use air pressure anymore with the new springs.
Same with my 1500, Progressive springs, no air pressure, good ride.
 

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Thanks y'all, I'll look into that as soon as I replace the back tire, back progressive shocks, headlight, rear brake disk and pads, and water pump.... all parts on order so far... got some wrenching ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
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Does anyone know what size tip I would need on my snap ring plyers?



Thanks,



Ed
 

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Ed, a standard snap-ring will do (the type you buy off the shelf) as the holes in the circlip are quite big, I reckon almost an eight of an inch.
 

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I found a local hardware store that should have what I need. thanks.
 

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To drive the sleeve in the best thing is to just order a spare sleeve and use it. Place the backup washer over the spare sleeve and the spare sleeve over the one that is used in the fork the with a punch and hammer tap it down until it seats. If it doesn't go down all the way you won't be able to get the seal low enough to get into the circlip groove!;)









Don't ask me how I know that........:baffled:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
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I got my snap ring plyers last night. Could someone confirm that the internal plyers are the correct one.



Thanks.
 

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I got the right set of plyers. Only problems is the snap ring is very rusty and does not want to budge right now. I will let it soak overnight in some wd-40. I hope to have it done soon....
 

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I got my forks back together. I got lazy and did not replace the waterpump like I said I would. Maybe next year I will do that.



If anybody needs fork seals at a great price, I got mine from an Ebayseller in the UK that ships to the US for $2.50. It takes over a week to get them, but the price was right.
 

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I am wondering if I did something wrong with the fork seal replacement. Both fork legs are wet with fresh fork oil after the seal replacement. A little bit has oozed down each fork leg. The seepage is no where near as bad as the leaky seal, but is this normal?

Appreciate any insight anyone has.

I used some aftermarket new fork seals with the "number side" up.
 

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When I replaced mine a while back, it was fine for a couple of weeks then started oozing again. Then I took the fork and another new seal into the dealer and had them press the new one in. It's been about a year since then but I haven't seen any sign of leaking since then.

I saw one suggestion on here (I think it's in thisthread actually) for using the old dust seal to seat the inner seal. Maybe you can try to re-seat them? Also make sure the slides are not scratched or pitted.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #18
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I am guessing I need to take the forks off and get a bigger piece of pipe that I can hammer the new seals in. I just used a little pvc coupling piece of pipe and used it as a slide hammer. I think I need to whack this seal in.

Thanks for the info.
 

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Problem solved.

I had the seals in upside down. Took the forks apart again and flipped the seals over and everything works fine.

End of story...I hope...
 

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edzinohio wrote:
Problem solved.

I had the seals in upside down. Took the forks apart again and flipped the seals over and everything works fine.

End of story...I hope...
Aha, the old Clymer bugaboo!:whip:
 
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