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83 GL1100I Rattle/Vibration during accel and decel

1704 Views 11 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  cyclewizard, 
dersh.z
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Hi all... I recently purchased an 83 GL1100I that had been sitting for 3 years (13,200 miles on it). The bike ran but didn't idle. I took the bike to a shop, had the carbs cleaned, synced and tuned... I'm not convinced the bike is running the way Honda had intended it to, regardless of what the "mechanic" claims.

Hear are the symptoms...

I feel and hear a vibration (primary chain?) during acceleration (usually below 3000 RPM) and during deceleration. Idle is smooth, highway cruising speed is smooth. I've eliminated several external mechanical vibrations...loose bolts, fairing rattles, radiator screen rattle, etc... I no longer do any engine braking because I can't stand hearing the rattling during decel.

Seems to run best above 3000 RPM to about 4000 RPM. The bike bogs down for most hills and when I need to pass, generally have to shift down. This bike is no fun to ride in town since it doesn't have much for low end torque and the vibration/rattle is quite annoying.

The bike starts very easily and rarely needs choke (hasn't been too cold yet tho). I'm currently averaging 40mpg.

Could this be a vacuum advance leak? where can I get a vacuum advance? or CV slides sticking?...or...??? do any of you have advice/suggestions?

Also, how do I adjust the timing on this bike?

Thanks much,

dersh.z
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FitzAl
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Rattle at idle is often due to the carbs out of synch. I would do that first as it's easy and doesn't take very long, then take it from there.
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DaveO430
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There is no ignition timing adjustment on any goldwing since the 1000. There are however timing belts and at the age of your bike and with it doing a lot of sitting over the years you should make it a priority to change them. It is possible one or both cams are a tooth out of time. Another possibility with the decel vibration is the universal joint where the driveshaft connects to the transmission could be loose or rusted and have rough spots in the bearings.
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S
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My wing does similar things. I know that they don't like to be bogged, so I try to shift above 3k rpm. But my trans also sounds like it is missing half of it's bearings and has straight cut gears. Apparently this is normal as well.

As far as the decel Vibe, I am right there with you. When I am going down the interstate at 70, and I need to slow down, I clutch in and brake. Only out of STRAIGHT FEAR that the bike is going to rattle apart when i let off.
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Hatchetman
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If you have to gear down to get power it might be missing on one cylinder. I had the same symptoms you describe which turned out to be a bad plug boot. They have resistors in them that can go bad. They unscrew from the plug wire. Your plug wires are solid core & can also suffer from corrosion so if you unthread a plug boot, look at the plug wire end. If you dont see shiny metal, trim it back just a lil & replace the boot.

Check all 4 plugs for similar colour. This will tell you if you have 1 cylinder fouling.

If you do a compression test, Have a fully charged battery, All 4 plugs out, Throttle & choke wide open for max air flow & crank speed.

Your vibration will go away & your horsepower will come back once she's cookin on all 4 holes!
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cyclewizard
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If the bike has sat for a period of time I say the carbs are the culprit.
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Jim and Lee
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Rarely needs choke??

Thats odd.

I would check the color of the plugs.

Somethings amiss.
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dersh.z
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Thanks to all who replied to my original post. This weekend I'll be doing the vacuum leak tests, check the spark plug wires and pull the plugs for a look see.

I had the carbs cleaned, synced, and tuned right after I bought the bike, but believe there still needs to be a bit more tuning/fixing. The bike does run a bit rich which is probably why I don't need to use the choke much.

In the two months I've owned the bike, I have put more than 4000 miles on it. The bike does great down the road so long as it's not too hilly, it's also not so great in town but I usually prefer the ride more than the destination anyway... but I do believe the vibration is getting worse, so at some point I'm hoping to either find a good Goldwing carb mechanic or...<shutter> try it myself:shock:, I've been watching e-bay for a "cheap" set of carbs to practice on and have been spending a considerable amount of time at Randakk's site.

Thanks again for the replies, they are very much appreciated.

dersh.z
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k1w1t1m
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You might also check out the Naked Goldwings site. There is a great tutorial on carbs complete with pics.
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Bike...and Dennis
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I think you are running the bike below it's "friendly" rpm range.

Ride it like a motorcycle and it will reward you with motorcycle performance.
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S
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I agree with Dennis above. My 1200 was never really happy in the 1800-2800 rev range but much smoother thereafter. Carb syncing will help a smoother idle though....Steve
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cyclewizard
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k1w1t1m wrote:
You might also check out the Naked Goldwings site. There is a great tutorial on carbs complete with pics.
Click to expand...


Most of your dealership tech's do a half ass job when it comes to cleaning and rebuilding goldwing carbs, I know I worked at one before I opened my own shop.
The only real good way to clean carbs are ultrasonic cleaning.
And if the tech never replaced your cutoff valves you may want to.



But then again you could have a bad plug boot or wire.


Take a plug reading and see if one or more plugs are burning rich or lean, that should give you a starting point to work from.

And if you have a rusty tank you may have the dreaded rust in the bowls syndrome.
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