Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Aspencade hasn't been started in eight years. I wasn't really planning on putting it away so it wasn't even stored properly. I started getting into it a little bit last week. I'm sure the old gas has the works all gummed up. Thought I'd do a little thread on the adventures of getting it going again.

Last weekend we replaced fluid and bleed both brake systems and all three calipers. Did the clutch as well. Found furry stuff in bottom of master cylinders and removed this with q-tips. Many, many q-tips. Drained the oil, replaced the filter and refilled oil. Drained the tank and replaced fuel filter. Replaced four new plugs. Installed new battery. Pulled the plug wires off and cranked it a bit hoping to circulate some oil. Put plug wires back on and gave it a whirl. Sounds close but not quite.

Choke cable is only moving about 30-45 degrees or so. Discussed that one in another thread a few days back.

Bottom of the tank looks a little rusty color but almost looks more furry than a surface rust texture. Not sure if this is some fallout from old gas or if this is what rust looks like. Dragged a breaker bar lightly across the bottom and could draw lines in it. I think that's good!?!? :)

After trying to start it a couple of times, I removed the plugs again. Left rear and right front looked like they had a little darkness on them like there is something getting into cylinders. The other two however looked as if they were not even installed. I suspect that's probably bad. :sadguy:

Looked at ways to remove rust on other threads and other forums. I'm going to try the electrolysis method and see how that works out. Thought about doing it in the bike but don't want to do it with the level sensor installed. Level sensor opening sits lower than the top of the tank. Not sure how to fill the tank without it coming out through the level sensor opening. SO........ Thought I'd remove the tank so I can block it up and get the two openings at the same level. Have left saddle bag off, battery bracket out, faux tank off, rear fender and bumper off. Book shows it as being nice and clean there. In reality I found an inner fender with stuff all around that apparently needs to go. :wtf:

Thought at that point I'd call it good for the day and come post my fun! If I had a way to plug the level opening I don't think I'd pull it. Maybe I can mock up a piece of sheet steel to replace the level sensor with? Hmmm....


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKZWRSWUg1X1dzRnc/edit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKTlFOYjYwRDJSRWM/edit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKSkdNb1cwRTRvU1U/edit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKOHVaclpkRFI4V2s/edit?usp=sharing

The person I bought this from said he had an issue with the stator that was common on these things in the late 80's and had it replaced. When I disconnected the stator wires, at least I believe that's what they are it looks as if there's a temperature issue with the contacts in the connectors. I'm not sure if my pictures are posting or not, but if they are, the next two pictures are of this connector. Three yellow wires located just to the left of the battery bracket.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKeVdCVnl0aFV3Zk0/edit?usp=sharing


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKSmFKTTg1ZTRnZ0E/edit?usp=sharing

I've seen numerous suggestions to solder these together. I can solder well but can't help but thing that it should still use a connector. I'll have to think on this a bit. It's not like the connector gets used. I didn't even know where it was until now. Although maybe I should wait until I've got this thing running good in case I need to take it apart again.

That's it for now. Hopefully the pictures work out. I'll try to get some good pictures of the tank before, during and after the electrolysis process. Yea Hah!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
212 Posts
Just my 2 cents but I would cut that out and solder the three wires together as the connector is a weak point and will cause your stator to burn out. Also If you have not changed the dogbone fuse out to a blade type I would suggest it be done to. That stator connector could be another reason why your motor wont start. As far as the plugs sounds like your carbs. are gummed up and will probably need rebuilding. Since you have her down this far might as well do all your maintenance now. And another thing while you have the three wires cut from the stator you could do a test on the stator to see if it is any good,if not you have it all apart so replace the stator or do the poor boy conversion.---------------Hal
 

·
Premium Member
1985 GL1200 A
Joined
·
953 Posts
Just a word of encouragement, Brother:

I picked up my '85 last spring and it had been sitting 6-7 years I reckon. Carb rebuild, fresh timing belts, fork seals, etc. and it runs and rides like a top. Started two weeks ago on the second push of the starter button, after sitting 5 months during our endless winter. Still more maintenance to do, but I rode it to Sturgis last August and put about 3,000 mis. on it last year. Looking to do at least 5,000 this year, then sell it and the 1100 that came with it to buy a mid-late '90s 1500.

Good Luck!:?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I will be working on the carbs in the next two weeks. I was wondering about the timing belts. I don't really want to pull the whole engine. Haven't looked at it in regards to the belts yet. I'm wondering if there might be enough room to get the covers off with it installed and carbs out of the way to replace the belts. Hoping so. Not sure about the fork seals yet either. Haven't looked anything at that yet to see what's involved.
 

·
Premium Member
1985 GL1200 A
Joined
·
953 Posts
No need to pull the engine to do the timing belts. Just have to get the radiator out of your way to remove the belt covers. Simple job. Just triple check the marks per the manual (cam pulleys and flywheel marks) and set the tensioners per spec and you're good to go.

Toughest part about the forks is putting the nut back on top against the spring pressure. Helps to have a fat friend lean on it!
 

·
Vintage Rider
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
Fuel problem is probably the carbs. I would remove and clean them before pulling the tank. That is not a fun job, and the carbs will almost certainly need a good cleaning anyway.

If you can solder good, then I would definitely recommend cutting out all the connectors out and soldering the wires together. Do this with the stator wires by the battery and all the wires that connect to the R/R. The idea is to make connections with a low resistance, that will not be subject to loosening or corrosion.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,163 Posts
I sympathize. I pulled the tank on my '86. Even after everything is unbolted and clear, it's a royal pain. That sucker is really stuck in there. I kept looking for hidden bolts. There aren't any.
I pressure washed my tank and air dried it. There wasn't any need to chemical clean it. Don't use a sealer. Just reinstall it.
Don't worry about the belts and/or the stator until you get it running and can verify it is worth spending too much more money on.
You can leave the three wire stator connector disconnected and still run it off the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No need to pull the engine to do the timing belts. Just have to get the radiator out of your way to remove the belt covers. Simple job. Just triple check the marks per the manual (cam pulleys and flywheel marks) and set the tensioners per spec and you're good to go.

Toughest part about the forks is putting the nut back on top against the spring pressure. Helps to have a fat friend lean on it!
I'm a full load for the bike so I'll lean on it and have a friend tighten the nut on the forks! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Fuel problem is probably the carbs. I would remove and clean them before pulling the tank. That is not a fun job, and the carbs will almost certainly need a good cleaning anyway.

If you can solder good, then I would definitely recommend cutting out all the connectors out and soldering the wires together. Do this with the stator wires by the battery and all the wires that connect to the R/R. The idea is to make connections with a low resistance, that will not be subject to loosening or corrosion.
I have the three stator wires. What do you mean by R/R? Is that the connector to the left of the stator connector?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
rr= regulator/rectifier. wire connectors are a weak point on any bike but the goldwings seem more prone to fail than others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I almost have all of the crap out of the way to remove the tank. On the road to hardware store now to pick up heavier zip ties to tie up rear shocks with. I am wondering about the fuel valve. I will have to remove it to remove the tank. Is it likely that there might be rust in there as well? Should I reinstall the valve before I do the electrolysis to remove the rust? Any thoughts on that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
fuel lines

Here is another question. Once the tank and valve is clean, what is the best way to clean the crap out of the lines from the valve to the pump and up to the t for the distribution at the carbs? The option I have seen discussed that sounds the best to me so far is using hot water and pine sol I believe it was.
 

·
Administrator
1987 GL1200 Interstate
Joined
·
23,324 Posts
The lines are rubber. Just replace them, including the ones into the carbs. I'm working on finding a source for pre-formed fuel hose. It ain't been easy.
 

·
Vintage Rider
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
I have the three stator wires. What do you mean by R/R? Is that the connector to the left of the stator connector?
Remove the fake tank. Look on the left side of the frame, left of the air filter housing. You will see a cast aluminum box with fins bolted to the frame. It will have the 3 yellow wires, a black wire, and at least one red/white wire and one green wire. It may have 2 of the red/white and green wires. It may have one or two white plastic connectors. This is the R/R. Check all the wires and the connector(s) for heat damage. Pull the connectors apart and look them over real good. Any sign of heat damage, I would cut them out and solder all those wires together as well. The connectors create a point of high resistance in the circuit and get hot, which is why so many of them melt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Update for Today, Rear Wheel, Tank, and Electrical

So, finished removing the tank today. What a pain!

I couldn't get the rear wheel out so eventually removed the final drive. The recess on the swing arm for the right shock absorber had fluid in it. Not sure what it was. Noticed that the final drive had what looked like old grease or oil on it at the front. Was expecting a gasket to be there but there wasn't. Not sure where the oil/grease came from.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKT3g3cEY3OXpqUHc/edit?usp=sharing

Ultimately, rear wheel came out darned easy by removing the final drive with it.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKRlQ0aXBpd3dCUEE/edit?usp=sharing

The following are pictures of the inside of the final drive and the drive side of the rear wheel. At first I thought these would be cleaner than they are but after more thought I don't know why I would expect that.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKTm5zV29tQlRjTFE/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKUjRyeHdBRldFblk/edit?usp=sharing

Continuing on, we got all of the things listed in the book taken care of to remove the tank. It wouldn't fit out the back end. The book actually said to remove the rear shocks. I had only loosened them. Ultimately ended up removing both parts to the inner fender, loosening up the chrome guard in front of the right hand saddle bag so I could get the right hand shock off. Also had to remove the distribution manifold on the right hand side just behind the tank. I thought these were air shocks but there seemed to be some black oil in the tubing for it. I sure hope I took enough pictures to get wires and tubes back into the same places they came from!

Eventually, there was basically no rear end left on the bike. But the bloody tank was out!:)
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKOGpIU180OUM5UGM/edit?usp=sharing

Here are a couple pictures of inside of the tank. It looks worse in the pictures than I thought it was. When I drained out the little bit left in the tank, it was really, really bad looking.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKVTJKTzlCTi1pRzg/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKM1dOb05aZTJmWU0/edit?usp=sharing

Here is a picture of the tank with the electrolysis happening. I used a 3/8" all thread and bent it to go in one hole and come out the other. It was working within minutes of hooking it up. I could see the stuff collecting at the top of the water.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKUzJkZXhFd3pRaGM/edit?usp=sharing

I'll clean up the back half of the wing good before putting it back together. With the limited time I can spend on it, that might be a week but I'm excited so it should go fast. I'll also get the radaak(sp) carb kit on order. Tuesday I'll post some pictures of the tank.

P.S. finally figured out how to add attachments. The one attachment shows the final drive and whatever grease/oil is on it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the info! Actually that goes to everyone that has posted on this thread. It's good stuff.

Just for others going through this in the future, here's a picture of the regulator/rectifier. The R/R is the black block (it looks black from here) with the wires sticking out the top. I see yellow, red and green easily. I didn't chase the wires but it looks like it should be the connector to the right. I think this matches your description.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the laugh. That's flippin hilarious!

This will be a stupid question considering that I work with computers and programming for a paycheck. How the heck did you get the picture embedded? I've tried the manage attachments and just figured that out. I can put in the hyperlink directly. But when I use the insert image it doesn't seem to like the hyperlink I give it. At the moment I'm wondering if it is because my links are https instead of http.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top