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My Aspencade hasn't been started in eight years. I wasn't really planning on putting it away so it wasn't even stored properly. I started getting into it a little bit last week. I'm sure the old gas has the works all gummed up. Thought I'd do a little thread on the adventures of getting it going again.
Last weekend we replaced fluid and bleed both brake systems and all three calipers. Did the clutch as well. Found furry stuff in bottom of master cylinders and removed this with q-tips. Many, many q-tips. Drained the oil, replaced the filter and refilled oil. Drained the tank and replaced fuel filter. Replaced four new plugs. Installed new battery. Pulled the plug wires off and cranked it a bit hoping to circulate some oil. Put plug wires back on and gave it a whirl. Sounds close but not quite.
Choke cable is only moving about 30-45 degrees or so. Discussed that one in another thread a few days back.
Bottom of the tank looks a little rusty color but almost looks more furry than a surface rust texture. Not sure if this is some fallout from old gas or if this is what rust looks like. Dragged a breaker bar lightly across the bottom and could draw lines in it. I think that's good!?!?
After trying to start it a couple of times, I removed the plugs again. Left rear and right front looked like they had a little darkness on them like there is something getting into cylinders. The other two however looked as if they were not even installed. I suspect that's probably bad. :sadguy:
Looked at ways to remove rust on other threads and other forums. I'm going to try the electrolysis method and see how that works out. Thought about doing it in the bike but don't want to do it with the level sensor installed. Level sensor opening sits lower than the top of the tank. Not sure how to fill the tank without it coming out through the level sensor opening. SO........ Thought I'd remove the tank so I can block it up and get the two openings at the same level. Have left saddle bag off, battery bracket out, faux tank off, rear fender and bumper off. Book shows it as being nice and clean there. In reality I found an inner fender with stuff all around that apparently needs to go. :wtf:
Thought at that point I'd call it good for the day and come post my fun! If I had a way to plug the level opening I don't think I'd pull it. Maybe I can mock up a piece of sheet steel to replace the level sensor with? Hmmm....
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKZWRSWUg1X1dzRnc/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKTlFOYjYwRDJSRWM/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKSkdNb1cwRTRvU1U/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKOHVaclpkRFI4V2s/edit?usp=sharing
The person I bought this from said he had an issue with the stator that was common on these things in the late 80's and had it replaced. When I disconnected the stator wires, at least I believe that's what they are it looks as if there's a temperature issue with the contacts in the connectors. I'm not sure if my pictures are posting or not, but if they are, the next two pictures are of this connector. Three yellow wires located just to the left of the battery bracket.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKeVdCVnl0aFV3Zk0/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKSmFKTTg1ZTRnZ0E/edit?usp=sharing
I've seen numerous suggestions to solder these together. I can solder well but can't help but thing that it should still use a connector. I'll have to think on this a bit. It's not like the connector gets used. I didn't even know where it was until now. Although maybe I should wait until I've got this thing running good in case I need to take it apart again.
That's it for now. Hopefully the pictures work out. I'll try to get some good pictures of the tank before, during and after the electrolysis process. Yea Hah!
Last weekend we replaced fluid and bleed both brake systems and all three calipers. Did the clutch as well. Found furry stuff in bottom of master cylinders and removed this with q-tips. Many, many q-tips. Drained the oil, replaced the filter and refilled oil. Drained the tank and replaced fuel filter. Replaced four new plugs. Installed new battery. Pulled the plug wires off and cranked it a bit hoping to circulate some oil. Put plug wires back on and gave it a whirl. Sounds close but not quite.
Choke cable is only moving about 30-45 degrees or so. Discussed that one in another thread a few days back.
Bottom of the tank looks a little rusty color but almost looks more furry than a surface rust texture. Not sure if this is some fallout from old gas or if this is what rust looks like. Dragged a breaker bar lightly across the bottom and could draw lines in it. I think that's good!?!?
After trying to start it a couple of times, I removed the plugs again. Left rear and right front looked like they had a little darkness on them like there is something getting into cylinders. The other two however looked as if they were not even installed. I suspect that's probably bad. :sadguy:
Looked at ways to remove rust on other threads and other forums. I'm going to try the electrolysis method and see how that works out. Thought about doing it in the bike but don't want to do it with the level sensor installed. Level sensor opening sits lower than the top of the tank. Not sure how to fill the tank without it coming out through the level sensor opening. SO........ Thought I'd remove the tank so I can block it up and get the two openings at the same level. Have left saddle bag off, battery bracket out, faux tank off, rear fender and bumper off. Book shows it as being nice and clean there. In reality I found an inner fender with stuff all around that apparently needs to go. :wtf:
Thought at that point I'd call it good for the day and come post my fun! If I had a way to plug the level opening I don't think I'd pull it. Maybe I can mock up a piece of sheet steel to replace the level sensor with? Hmmm....
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKZWRSWUg1X1dzRnc/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKTlFOYjYwRDJSRWM/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKSkdNb1cwRTRvU1U/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKOHVaclpkRFI4V2s/edit?usp=sharing
The person I bought this from said he had an issue with the stator that was common on these things in the late 80's and had it replaced. When I disconnected the stator wires, at least I believe that's what they are it looks as if there's a temperature issue with the contacts in the connectors. I'm not sure if my pictures are posting or not, but if they are, the next two pictures are of this connector. Three yellow wires located just to the left of the battery bracket.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKeVdCVnl0aFV3Zk0/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8f4L-Jr0mxKSmFKTTg1ZTRnZ0E/edit?usp=sharing
I've seen numerous suggestions to solder these together. I can solder well but can't help but thing that it should still use a connector. I'll have to think on this a bit. It's not like the connector gets used. I didn't even know where it was until now. Although maybe I should wait until I've got this thing running good in case I need to take it apart again.
That's it for now. Hopefully the pictures work out. I'll try to get some good pictures of the tank before, during and after the electrolysis process. Yea Hah!