I had that problem coming and going for a while. I had a friend centre the rockers for me and that fixed it. There are existing threads about this on the forum that you can read up.
Thank you for responding Eamonn1200. I had heard of this on another thread about a year ago but for some reason I kind of doubted it would work. I don't know crap about motor cycle engines but when I had the valve cover off last summer to inspect the oil ports, I looked at what I thought were the rockers and it seemed to me they kind of floated. What I mean is they were easy to move side to side with little effort with a screw driver. I did notice that 2 seemed not in the center, so I kind of eye balled them into what I thought looked centered with a flat head screw driver b4 I put things back together. Maybe they were not the rockers at all and I'm a fool but it seemed to me if they slid so easy side to side like that they would end up moving on their own anyway. I will talk to a guy about it that has worked on it b4 and see if he knows about it. Thanks again!I had that problem coming and going for a while. I had a friend centre the rockers for me and that fixed it. There are existing threads about this on the forum that you can read up.
Some if not most of the 1200's had a valve train rattle that comes and goes. Usually mine does it when it fully warmed up and I idle if for a while. Like at a stop light. Then hit 2nd gear and it rattles for a few seconds. Now I can go a month without the rattle IF I ride it a lot.
What grade oil are you running? I use 10w40 year round. When you say you ran MMO for a while, how long is a while? You can replace up to 25% of your normal 10w40 with MMO and ride until the next oil change.
Just realize that it may never go away but it doesn't seem to hurt anything either. It's just annoying and maybe a little emabarassing.[/QUOT
Yes jdvorchak it IS embarrassing! At the end of the riding season last year I would go out and start it at work early b4 leaving because someone would say something about it. "Is that old bike throwing a rod?" was most of what I got. Sounds like we may have different issues because I have a ticking lifter no doubt. I started running Delo 400 LE in it last year and the bike ran so smooth. I ran a quart of MMO in it for several weeks at the end of summer. At 1st it stopped tapping but then started again. Thinking about trying syenthitic oil next year because I have read on a few threads that it stopped the ticking for them.
Thanks for the ideas!
I believe you're experiencing sticking/stuck hydraulic lifters on the left side.
There is probably a discussion here about how to bleed/clean them so they work smoothly. It's not tough, so shouldn't be expensive if done by others.
One thing about Seafoam is that concentration makes a big difference in how well it works. For deep cleaning of carbs or the engine 100 miles before doing an oil change, I use a concentration of 1oz of Seafoam per gallon of gas or quart of motor oil.
If it were my bike, I'd run a stiff dose of Seafoam through the crankcase for 50-100 miles and then change to a full synthetic with a high quality filter. Worked fine on mine.
Thanks Dennis. This is what I will do next. I am lucky enough to have a very good bike mechanic not far from me that has never done me wrong. Soon as I get the chance I will let him have a go at it and see if these rockers are indeed the issue. raying: I have just had it with this tapping!There is a pretty good chance that Eamonn's suggestion was correct.
If you indeed could move the rocker arm shaft with a screwdriver, then I'd say it was too lose, and would be centered and therefore quiet, intermittently. Conversely, noisy intermittently.
Anyway, the off center shaft is common enough to have the repair outlined in the Honda Repair Manual.
4ozs is fine. You may need to do it about 3 or 4 times if it is a oil flow problem to the lifters. A couple summers ago I had the same problem with the annoying lifter tapping. After 3 seafoam treatments in the oil the lifters stopped making noise and I have never heard it since. Just make sure you keep the rpms under 3500 and drain the oil while still warm and don't forget a new filter. I also found it works better riding about 50 miles, let it sit overnight, ride another 50 miles then change oil. With the seafoam sitting overnight it allows it to dissolve the gunk. The seafoam also helps clean the starter sprag and clutch plates. But remember, the seafoam is not always the cure-all for everything. You might still need to adjust those rocker arms. Good luck.I was really worried about running sea foam in the crank case when I first read that others had tried it to clean lifters because of the stator wiring. I did end up doing it tho, I ran 4 oz's in it for 100 miles and dumped it out. It didn't seem to work so I then tried the MMO. Ended up changing oil and filter 4 times :ROFL:. Maybe I will give the sea foam another shot b4 switching to full synthetic once it stops snowing here! Lol. Was 4 oz's a stiff enough dose?
Jon Jay -- In my experience that would seem to be accurate. Here is my hypothesis (opinion) based on my '85 GL1200. I had the clacking problem on the old 1200 and found a block oil passage on the right side. It cause the oil to not "spurt" out of the oil cup and the clacking came & went...It sounded terrible...I thougt I read on here somewhere that synthetic oil wasn't recomended in these older bikes because they tend to cause the bike to leak oil,someone correct me if I'm mistaken