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84 1200, dredded 3 yellow wire plug!

2K views 21 replies 12 participants last post by  wingsam41 
#1 ·
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Knowing what I already knew about this problem on these bikes, I should have cut that damn plug off the day I bought it. Went out yesterday to look for the reason my cigg lighter doesn't work (it never has) and happened to notice that one of the wires on the stator 3-wire plug was black around the plug. After looking a little closer I found that the back of the plug was a bit melted as well. I just hope I have discovered it in time! I havent had any charging trouble, but I had noticed that my dash lights were going dim when ever my brake lights were on. Going to cut the plug out tomorrow and solder the wires in directly. Question is, does it matter which wires go together? I am going to assume it does and match them as they are on the plug just to be safe. Any comments from anyone that has done this is welcome!
 
#2 ·
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They are all the same. Solder them up. I did mine a while back after replacing the stator. Same issue. Crappy connector
and high resistance. Check the output when in doubt. Should be AC volts. Look for around 30 volts when you give it some throttle.
Good luck.
 
#3 ·
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oldfart66 wrote:
They are all the same. Solder them up. I did mine a while back after replacing the stator. Same issue. Crappy connector
and high resistance. Check the output when in doubt. Should be AC volts. Look for around 30 volts when you give it some throttle.
Good luck.
Thanks oldfart, so it does not matter which wires go where? Cool. Good LORD I'm praying I don't have to replace this stator! (never had a problem starting) I will update soon as I have news.
 
#4 ·
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What I usually do when working on a gl1200 charging system is run new wires directly from the stator to the voltage regulator . The plug beside the battery and the one under the false tank adjacent to the volt regulator are potential sources of arcing and shorting. Eliminating these two stator/regulator connections * MAY *help prevent stator/charging problems in the future ......The dash lights dimming is normal
 
#6 ·
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I agree with all the above. If your bike has only 20+k on it, you may have caught it in time. They usually fry before 50k if the stator windings are still ok. It might go later but you'll prolong it if nothing else.
 
#7 ·
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Also consider installing an EC harness. I got mine from Jim Venne at Venco Cycles. The wires are much heavier than stock and the coils get a full 12 volts after the conversion. Easy to install also. George
 
#8 ·
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rafferty10 wrote:
oldfart66 wrote:
They are all the same. Solder them up. I did mine a while back after replacing the stator. Same issue. Crappy connector
and high resistance. Check the output when in doubt. Should be AC volts. Look for around 30 volts when you give it some throttle.
Good luck.
Thanks oldfart, so it does not matter which wires go where? Cool. Good LORD I'm praying I don't have to replace this stator! (never had a problem starting) I will update soon as I have news.
I'm not oldfart (even though I am one) but it makes no difference. Just be sure to make them seperate solder connections(wire to wire)and I would heat shrink them too. I did on my 85 Aspy.
 
#11 ·
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roscoepc wrote:
firefighterrider wrote:
Rafferty, check out my "little" problem with the 3 wires!! I had the bike 9 days and ran into this problem. Easy fix and hope for the best

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/101488.html
That reminds me...Didya take care of those 30amp dogbone fuses???:shock::cool::cool:
I know of what fuses you speak of, but what of taking care of them? I found that my spare fuse fell apart when I tried to remove it, and even though I have looked all over town for them no one even carries them!
 
#12 ·
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rafferty10 wrote:
roscoepc wrote:
firefighterrider wrote:
Rafferty, check out my "little" problem with the 3 wires!! I had the bike 9 days and ran into this problem. Easy fix and hope for the best

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/101488.html
That reminds me...Didya take care of those 30amp dogbone fuses???:shock::cool::cool:
I know of what fuses you speak of, but what of taking care of them? I found that my spare fuse fell apart when I tried to remove it, and even though I have looked all over town for them no one even carries them!
You can replace it with a thirty amp blade fuse and holder. Its a snap. I did this when I had my 85 Aspy.
 
#15 ·
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As vtxcandyred said you replace the dogbone fuse with an in-line 30amp fuse holder. It involves cutting the 2 red/red whitefront wires on the starter selinoid plug-in and soldering the in-line fuse to them and crimping/soldering a properly sized round connector on the other end of the fuse wire to connect to the positive selinoid terminal. If you need some pic's let me know and I'll post them for ya! Also you only have to install one in-line fuse, not two as is needed on the Fuelies....



Good luck with her!!:coollep:
 
#16 ·
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Rafferty Ive 90 thousand on an 85 LTD, and heres my honest opinion for what its worth. I went thru all the soldering wires, fixing cooked wires from regulator heat, fuse replacement and all the rest for a couple of years. Stator went at 80 thousand. Honestly the cheapest easiest and less time consuming thing you can do is just covert the thing over to a one wire hookup car alternator.
No more plugs to fool with, hot regulators, finky wires and funky charging. If you make your own mount you can do the whole deal for about 75 bucks and be done with it.
I spent more than than that in wire solder and shrink tubing trying to stave off a stator burn out that just simply is going to happen sooner or later.
Its not the stator on the bikes that is really a weak set up though the wiring is lousy, its the whole engine removal thing to replace it. Once the alternator coversion is done if something does happen which is seldom to never, its a few screws two bolts and off it comes for a 40 buck alt rebuild. I put it off for a year fiddling with wires and all the rest, thinking it was a bigger job than it was. You can do the conversion making everything yourself as far as mounts etc, in the time it takes to constantly be redoing plugs wires dog bones, etc. Ride easy. Ghost
 
#17 ·
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Ghostrider52005 wrote:
Rafferty Ive 90 thousand on an 85 LTD, and heres my honest opinion for what its worth. I went thru all the soldering wires, fixing cooked wires from regulator heat, fuse replacement and all the rest for a couple of years. Stator went at 80 thousand. Honestly the cheapest easiest and less time consuming thing you can do is just covert the thing over to a one wire hookup car alternator.
No more plugs to fool with, hot regulators, finky wires and funky charging. If you make your own mount you can do the whole deal for about 75 bucks and be done with it.
I spent more than than that in wire solder and shrink tubing trying to stave off a stator burn out that just simply is going to happen sooner or later.
Its not the stator on the bikes that is really a weak set up though the wiring is lousy, its the whole engine removal thing to replace it. Once the alternator coversion is done if something does happen which is seldom to never, its a few screws two bolts and off it comes for a 40 buck alt rebuild. I put it off for a year fiddling with wires and all the rest, thinking it was a bigger job than it was. You can do the conversion making everything yourself as far as mounts etc, in the time it takes to constantly be redoing plugs wires dog bones, etc. Ride easy. Ghost
I agree with all of this but the dog bone fuse and the stator wire replacement is still a must. You still use these wires I believe. I know the dog bone fuse you do. But the poorboy exterior alternator is the way to go. I was going to do that to mine if I had kept the bike longer.
 
#19 ·
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rafferty10 wrote:
roscoepc wrote:
firefighterrider wrote:
Rafferty, check out my "little" problem with the 3 wires!! I had the bike 9 days and ran into this problem. Easy fix and hope for the best

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/101488.html
That reminds me...Didya take care of those 30amp dogbone fuses???:shock::cool::cool:
I know of what fuses you speak of, but what of taking care of them? I found that my spare fuse fell apart when I tried to remove it, and even though I have looked all over town for them no one even carries them!
Spare dogbone fuses are avail through Honda still. Or go the inline fuse holder route.
 
#20 ·
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Interesting about the fuses. I ordered some from my local Honda dealer. They were dirt cheap so I got several. Keep them in the fairing pocket. They are old tech for sure.
And get some dielectric grease and use it on all the electrical connectors that you can. Makes a better connection and helps keep out the moisture. I am curious about where the other 30 amp fuse is located. I only know of one at the starter solenoid. Hey Roscoe? Where is the other fuse?

Thanks
Ron
 
#21 ·
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Ghost, I plan to do just this when the time comes. I cut out the plug today and wired every thing up nice and tight. Checked everything out with a multimeter and it looks like I got lucky. No problems to ground, and battery is charging at 13.8-14.2 volts. I was worried about it but it looks ok. I will never replace the stator on this bike however. When it goes that will be it and I will do the poormans conversion. Bike only has 24k on it so far so I'm in hope that may be a little while down the road.

Thanks to all who shared there wisdom to me on here. The bone fuse is going out as well.

THANK YOU!
 
#22 ·
imported post

oldfart66 wrote:
Interesting about the fuses. I ordered some from my local Honda dealer. They were dirt cheap so I got several. Keep them in the fairing pocket. They are old tech for sure.
And get some dielectric grease and use it on all the electrical connectors that you can. Makes a better connection and helps keep out the moisture. I am curious about where the other 30 amp fuse is located. I only know of one at the starter solenoid. Hey Roscoe? Where is the other fuse?

Thanks
Ron
Hey Ron

The second dogbone fuse is located behind and inboard of the starter solenoid you will see a red wire leading to it. It is clipped to the frame but you can sort of twist it out of its clip just be careful not to break clip.

Also a word of cautionnot to over usedielectric grease.The grease is actually non conductive so try not to apply it direct to the actual electrical parts of the connector. Use it more on the shell. You can also apply it to the backside to seal out moisture just don't over do it.

Glad to hear the stator survived Rafferty!
 
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