[dfdecook]

I would like some advice on issues that I have been having with my 84 1200 GW. Please bear with me as I explain the problem.
This problem has been plaguing me for a couple years now. The problem is that when I take the bike out for a ride sometimes I can ride for a hr. or so and nothing goes wrong. And other times I can ride for about 5 miles and I lose power and the bike dies. And I have to trailer it home.
To try to diagnose the problem I have run the bike in the garage for a long time. The bike would run for a long time. And I would run it at idle for a while and at 2k rpms for a while and 3k for a while and @ 4k for a while and it runs file. And up and down the rpm scale rapidly too. In neutral and also through the gears too. Of course I have it on the center stand and a fan blowing on the front of the engine so it doesn’t over heat.
Thinking it is fine I take it for a run on the street and not too long into the ride it dies. Sometimes it would start back up after it cooled down. And other time I would have to trailer it home.
Here is the history of the things that I have done in the order at which I have done the work to try to fix the issues over the last couple years.

• Removed the stator plug and hard wired those wires and confirmed that they are ok.
• New voltage regulator.
• The bike is putting out any where’s from 11.5 -> 14v during the ride. I have a volt meter on the bike so I can see what it’s doing during the ride.
• Replaced the fuel filter and fuel lines. The lines were leaking.
• Replace the pulse generator plug with a modern water tight plug.
• This year I replaced the fuel pump and fuel pump relay. I think bench tested it wrong and I messed up that system so I replaced both of them.
• This year I replaced the pulse generator w/a new old stock unit.

The bike starts right up without any hesitation. And after replacing the P.G. I took it for a ride thinking that I finally fixed the issues. It wasn’t too far into the ride when it started to lose power again. And it died. I pulled the 2 RH plugs and checked to see if I was getting spark. And yes it was getting spark. After I put the plugs back in the bike it did start. In the past when it died it wouldn’t start back up. But this time it did. So I am thinking that the P.G. was one of the main issues causing the problems in the past. In order to get home I had to leave the chock full to limp home.
I am losing my patients with this bike and I am now thinking that I have to rebuild the carbs. I am nervous about rebuilding the carbs because it is a big job and it’s been a long time since I have attempted that type of job. Never on 4 carbs before. I have all the tools to do it but I am just nervous about the outcome. I have been looking for a good rebuild kit and I have seen that Randakks has the best reputation for their kit. But they don’t have any in stock. I don’t want to buy a cheap kit. And I want a kit that can solve the ethanol gas issues.
So can anyone add to helping me fix my dilemma on solving my problem?

 

[toolcraft4100]

I'm not gonna be much help, but the intermittent nature of the symptoms sounds more like electrical/ignition than carbs. Could be something as simple as a corroded connection.

 

[DaveO430]

Don't mess with the carbs, they are not the problem. Sounds like a fuel supply issue. Try loosening the gas cap when this happens.

 

[RambozoClown]

I would agree with Dave. If it requires the choke to run, it is a running lean problem, not ignition. Maybe add a fuel pressure gauge so you can keep track of that when you ride.
That's not to say you could have more than one problem and that always makes things interesting.

 

[Bryanlj]

Sounds more like an intermittent elactrical connection to me, possibly ignition switch or bad fuse holder

 

[RambozoClown]

Like I said it might be more than one problem, but that it needed full choke to limp home doesn't point to electrical. Running on the center stand with no load requires much less fuel than riding.
Checking the fuel cap is a good first step, when it dies.
Also how it dies can tell you something. Is it instant or drawn out a little? Compare with hitting the kill switch while riding.

 

[Pure Texas]

Does it have a bank angle sensor like the 1500,is so it might be bad and hitting bump will shut it off

 

[rayjoe]

Also check/clean the kill switch. I guess rambozo clown suggested that already.


Rayjoe

 

[DenverWinger]

+1 on Gas cap. If it dies again loosen gas cap, they have a pressure release in them which seals +- 1 psi, anything over that, vacuum or pressure it allows air in or fumes out.

Sometimes fuel cap pressure valve gets plugged from vapors, dirt and other gunk and can't vent anymore. so as you are driving and using fuel from the tank you are building a vacuum inside the tank to the point the fuel pump can no longer suck fuel out of there. That may not show up in the garage idling, because if you aren't hauling the weight of the bike and yourself down the road the bike will use very little fuel.

Fix: Soak fuel cap 24 hrs in SeaFoam or other good solvent.

 

[dfdecook]

As I mentioned earlier lately when it dies it looses power gradually. I can feel it coming on when it happens. I have tried to down **** it to keep the rpms up . but it would eventually die in a short period of time. But this last time the full chock got me home because I was too far from home.
Thanks for the suggestion on the fuel cap. I will soak it in sea foam as suggested. Sounds like that could be a good suggestion to solve the problem.
I'll also look at the bank angle senor too as suggested.

 

[Bryanlj]

Bank angle would cut dead, what you describe is fuel flow related.
Most electrical either works or doesnt very rarely fades in or out

 

[Pure Texas]

I was thing it just dies, bas would not csuse it👹👹

 

[DaveO430]

Does it have a bank angle sensor like the 1500,is so it might be bad and hitting bump will shut it off

No, a 1200 other than the FI models does not have a BAS.

 

[dfdecook]

I agree with the thought that a electrical issue the bike would just die. And not loose gradual power like the problem I am having.
I am soaking the gas cap in a carb cleaner. we'll see if that helps
Thanks for your input. its been very helpful.

 

[DaveO430]

I agree with the thought that a electrical issue the bike would just die. And not loose gradual power like the problem I am having.
I am soaking the gas cap in a carb cleaner. we'll see if that helps
Thanks for your input. its been very helpful.

It would be much simpler to just take it for a ride with the cap loose to see if that's the problem.

 

[bb1040]

I would like some advice on issues that I have been having with my 84 1200 GW. Please bear with me as I explain the problem.
This problem has been plaguing me for a couple years now. The problem is that when I take the bike out for a ride sometimes I can ride for a hr. or so and nothing goes wrong. And other times I can ride for about 5 miles and I lose power and the bike dies. And I have to trailer it home.
To try to diagnose the problem I have run the bike in the garage for a long time. The bike would run for a long time. And I would run it at idle for a while and at 2k rpms for a while and 3k for a while and @ 4k for a while and it runs file. And up and down the rpm scale rapidly too. In neutral and also through the gears too. Of course I have it on the center stand and a fan blowing on the front of the engine so it doesn’t over heat.
Thinking it is fine I take it for a run on the street and not too long into the ride it dies. Sometimes it would start back up after it cooled down. And other time I would have to trailer it home.
Here is the history of the things that I have done in the order at which I have done the work to try to fix the issues over the last couple years.

• Removed the stator plug and hard wired those wires and confirmed that they are ok.
• New voltage regulator.
• The bike is putting out any where’s from 11.5 -> 14v during the ride. I have a volt meter on the bike so I can see what it’s doing during the ride.
• Replaced the fuel filter and fuel lines. The lines were leaking.
• Replace the pulse generator plug with a modern water tight plug.
• This year I replaced the fuel pump and fuel pump relay. I think bench tested it wrong and I messed up that system so I replaced both of them.
• This year I replaced the pulse generator w/a new old stock unit.

The bike starts right up without any hesitation. And after replacing the P.G. I took it for a ride thinking that I finally fixed the issues. It wasn’t too far into the ride when it started to lose power again. And it died. I pulled the 2 RH plugs and checked to see if I was getting spark. And yes it was getting spark. After I put the plugs back in the bike it did start. In the past when it died it wouldn’t start back up. But this time it did. So I am thinking that the P.G. was one of the main issues causing the problems in the past. In order to get home I had to leave the chock full to limp home.
I am losing my patients with this bike and I am now thinking that I have to rebuild the carbs. I am nervous about rebuilding the carbs because it is a big job and it’s been a long time since I have attempted that type of job. Never on 4 carbs before. I have all the tools to do it but I am just nervous about the outcome. I have been looking for a good rebuild kit and I have seen that Randakks has the best reputation for their kit. But they don’t have any in stock. I don’t want to buy a cheap kit. And I want a kit that can solve the ethanol gas issues.
So can anyone add to helping me fix my dilemma on solving my problem?

Check the pulse generators I had a problem like this on my 86 interstate, the shop could not find the problem, then after many hours on YouTube LOL I decided to change the pulse generators, have had no problem since then.

 

[dfdecook]

I just replaced the PG. I found a new old stock unit.
Also as suggested I did refurbish the kill switch last year . And at that time I thought I had the problem solved.
As for taking it for a ride w/o the cap on I have been house bound so I am soaking the cap in carb cleaner to at least be doing something till I can get out on the road. I can still ride w/o the cap after I clean it too.

Thank you for your suggestions

 

[dfdecook]

Here is the latest status on my stalling issue. As much detail as I know

• I soaked the gas cap in carb cleaner for 2 days. When you look at the cap that faces the inside of the tank. In the center dome of the cap there are 4 holes around the perimeter. And 1 on the middle. And 2 tabs sticking out of the side of the dome. I gently inserted a pipe cleaner in all of the holes and around the 2 tabs. There wasn’t any rust and the 2 tabs moved too. I also inserted a probe in the center hole and pushed the (what I am guessing is a plunger) up and down a few time. So I was thinking that the cap did not have any obstructions after the long soak. And it felt like the plunger (if that’s what it is) moved up and down when I pushed on it. And the rubber gasket that goes around the perimeter of the cap was in good shape too.
• I ran the bike in the garage for a while and I also sync’d the carbs. They were not out by much. But I figured it could hurt to check the sync of the carbs.
• I took a lunch break.
• Then I took the bike out for a ride around the neighborhood. I didn’t want to go too far from home and get stuck again.
• So it wasn’t too long into the ride when the bike started to bog down again.
• I was mainly riding in 2nd/3rd gear @ about 25 mph. I was thinking the higher the gear the more load on the engine.
• The engine was up to operating temp around the time the bogging started. And about 12.5 v.
• Again I put on the chock and down shifted and rode it into the garage. But just before I pulled into the garage I opened the gas cap. And no change as to how the engine was performing. In fact it stalled not long after I opened the cap. But I was able to start it up again.
• I was the only person on the bike and the 2 bags were nearly empty except for some tools I normally carry with me.
• I pulled all 4 plugs and they all had a good blue spark.
• And after doing that and putting my tool kit back I started the bike and it didn’t sound as smooth as I think it should.

1 question I have is what is the purpose of the tube that sticks into the top of the air filter? When I blow into it I can feel it building up pressure. And when I stop the air come rushing out. My thought is it is to relieve the crank case pressure. I am not sure. Oh also the air cleaner is in good shape too.
So I will welcome any more advice you people will have to help me solve this d….m issue?

 

[icechopper]

If you can feel the bike gradually lose power and die, it's generally a fuel delivery problem. When you run the fuel out of the carbs by shutting the petcock, you normally feel the bike lose a cylinder one at a time instead of the motor just stopping all at once. If this is how your bike is behaving, particularly when you verify spark and it won't restart, you can reasonably eliminate an electrical issue.

 

[dfdecook]

Icechopper thank you for your comments
Yes this is what it feels like when it dies. But I am getting spark from all plugs after it stalls.
Since I wrote my last comment I have done the following.
1. Measured the fuel pump out put per the Honda shop manual. Where you connect a hose to the output side of the pump and you run the hose to a graduated beaker. You also disconnect the fuel pump regulator and you short out the black n white wires leads to the F.P.R. Than you run the pump for 5 sec's and take that cc measurement & multiply it x 12. to get the spec # required. My bike's spec is 500 cc .I ran each test 6 times.
2. W/gas cap on, fuel filter in line = 360 cc
3 W/gas cap off, fuel filter in line = 360 cc
4. W/gas cap on, w/o fuel filter in line = 360 cc
5 W/gas cap off, w/o fuel filter in line = 360 cc
6 Ran a hose directly through the top of the fuel tank to the pump to take the shut off valve and fuel filter out of the flow = 720 -> 800cc
7 Took the shut off valve, and gas tank float off. And blew compressed air through the shut off valve tube in the tank and in the valve. I could not find any debris in the tank. And the line in the tank is a metal line and it looks ok to me. it doesn't look rusted or compressed. and I could not see any stuff flying around with the compressed air running through the tube.
8. I sent the fuel pump back to the company I purchased it from and convinced them to replace it with a new pump. I am waiting for the pump to return.
When I get the new pump I will run #2 test again. If I get the same #'s. I plan to run straight Textron through the carb's. I have a kit that I can do that with. Maybe the screens above the needles are plugged up . I don't think it would act this way with bad screens but it can't hurt to clean them on the bike. And if that doesn't work I am going to run the bike with my aux fuel tank with a hose from the top of the tank. And see if it dies like when it was doing hooked normally.