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Just had my 84 aspy at the local shop for a tire change and rear brakes. After the test drive, the mechanicstated that I had a partially collapsed lifter on the right side. He listened to the motor with a stethoscope. I've only had the bike a couple of months, so had no idea what a good motor is supposed to sound like. I just replaced the slider/diaphragms on the carbs as 3 out of 4 had rips in them. I had way more power after that, but had no idea I had motor issues. Is this problem possible even though the bike cruises down the highway at 65mph with no issues and I got it up to 95 mph once since the diaphragm replacements. Would seem hard to believe she can run like that with a partially collapsed lifter? Anything I can do to address this?
 

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It might be just sticking. A good engine flush can clear them out, and is worth doing before tearing into anything.
 

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try a different oil to see whats going on
 

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Copied from my post on another BBS:

You have hydraulic valves on this bike, if the lifters are collapsed they would be making a very very loud banging/clacking noise that would make you think the cylinder was trying to smash it's way out of the block.

If you truly do have a collapsed lifter then this is caused by a blocked oil port. I had this happen to my bike a few years ago, when we pulled the port open we found a tiny piece of hard debris in there that would occasionally come up and block the oil port collapsing the lifter, most of the time it would just sit in the bottom out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
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Gonna do an engine flush. Should I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase or Seafoam? Which works better? Also, I'm going to switch to 20w50 after the engine cleaning hopefully to quiet it down.
 

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seafoam worked for me to clean inside of motor.. made shifting easier, so would lean more for seafoam. MMO is more of a lube.Add seafoam to your old oil, Make sure you make room for it .DONT OVERFILL ENGINE. Run for like hundred miles then change your oil.
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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+2 on the Sea Foam. Run it 100-200 miles and change out.

I had to do it twice to my old '94SE to get the crankcase oil to come out clean.

The PO's must not have been doing their changes on a good schedule, but the ole girl cleaned up real well with no damage to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
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According to the same mechanic, I have an oil leak at my shifter. I do see the oil on the bottom of the motor, so he's probably right. It doesn't use much oil, so I'm not worrying about it yet. As`soon as I get the filters in my hand, I'll use the seafoam in the oil. When I bought this bike, I was looking at a 2001 Ace 750 for a few bills more. Beginning to think I should have bought it. It ran great! Just too hard to step down in size once you have a Full Dresser. :doh: BTW My $10 (clearance price at Honda Dealer) Shinko tire is now on the rear. Can't believe the difference in handling. For people with handling issues, take a look at your tires. The rear can kill your handling as much as the front. Can't believe this cheapo tire rides this good!!
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Ray,

Even though it's common, most mechanics don't know that an off center cam can cause noisy lifters on the GL12. Pretty easy to fix. Look in the manual and it tells how to do it.

The shift shaft seal is a 10 minute no-brainer fix.

So before you spend a grand having someone who was barely smart enough to learn how to pick his own nose, tear into and damage your bike...fix it correctly,yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
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Unfortunately, after using mmo in the crankcase for 150 miles, no change, still have the knocking noise on the right side at 3000rpm+ That sticky lifter just won't unstick. I did another 150 miles with seafoam in the oil(after oil change of course), still no luck. Looks like I might have to bite the bullet. Local wing mechanic says he can fix it for $250-$350 which means it will be at least $350. He has another 1200 head he plans on swapping it with. Should I go that route? :baffled:
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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What year is the head? They are not all the same.

Has he even considered centering the cam?
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
What year is the head? They are not all the same.

Has he even considered centering the cam?
+1 on what Dennis is saying though I believe it's actually the collar for the exhaust rocker arm shaft between the two exhaust rocker arms rather than the actual camshaft. It's pretty easy to check just need to pull the valve cover. If the collar clearance is too tight on one side itshould be fairly obvious though it's best to measure to be sure. If it is you simply loosen the pinch bolt and move it.
 

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RayJay1959 wrote:
Unfortunately, after using mmo in the crankcase for 150 miles, no change, still have the knocking noise on the right side at 3000rpm+ That sticky lifter just won't unstick.
A couple of things need clearing up.

#1 The 1200's do not have hydraulic lifters they have hydraulic rocker arm lash adjusters.

#2 The mechanic said he could hear it at idle but you say that now it is heard only over 3000 rpm.:?

My thought is a sticky valve and/or a weak/broken valve spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
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If you listen close, you can here the tapping at low speeds. Anytime under load, you can hear it at 3000rpm + My motor has gotten much quieter after the mmo treatment, but I still have the bad tapping on the right side. Frenchy(classic goldwing maechanic) said that he has a good head he can swap out with mine. $350 job. I will probably go that route next week. I want to be riding this bike for a long time.
 

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Took my bike to the local classic wing mechanic and he just gave me a call. Bent valve. :sadguy: He has another head that's been rebuilt he can replace it with. $350 Doesn't sound too steep for that kind of job. What do you think?
 

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RayJay1959 wrote:
Took my bike to the local classic wing mechanic and he just gave me a call. Bent valve. :sadguy: He has another head that's been rebuilt he can replace it with. $350 Doesn't sound too steep for that kind of job. What do you think?
To re&re your head would be a couple of hours, add a head gasket and valve for about $100 if you were to do it yourself and your getting a deal in my opinion.

If you don't know the history of the timing belts get them changed while he has at least one off.
 

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on my 1100 i didnt even know i had a bent valve until i pulled my rh head to do the head gasket my dad was spinning the motor over by hand and i heard a CLICK found out the rh front cylinder had a bent intake valve near the end and ive been riding that thing like that for god knows how long.

the local shop i go to said repairs like that are hard to find because, you never know it has a issue until you get down and dirty with it.

if its broke fix it before it causes even more problems.
 

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$350 for that much work, even if he just swaps the head with another thats been reworked is well worth the $350.

I agree with Ken, if you don't know when the belts were changed, it would be a good time to get them done too if he doesn't want an arm and a leg.
 
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