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vfpsql wrote:
Hello all,

New owner here of an old bike. Purchased last year at the end of the season. 18K on it, dusty and a bit cranky (sometimes backfires) Previous owner didn't ride it much (obviously) but swore he kept the oil changed regularly. Did he ? Who knows. Changed the plugs, put a few bottles of Techron and it seemed somewhat better.

Didn't get much time to play with it before winter, didn't do much with it over the winter either. Seemed to run ok the few times I had it out, but the last few times when it was hot I noticed the clutch slipping under load at higher RPM's. Then it started to escalate slightly until I put it away.

So it sat until this past week. Started it up and it doesn't really want to move. With the clutch all the way out, I can actually keep the bike from moving with my feet holding it back. Not good.

So hopefully someone can give a rookie owner an idea where to start ? I'm not too thrilled at taking it to the dealer (assuming I could even get it there under its own power). I'm sure it would take months and cost more than its worth. I'm not totally useless with tools, I'm hoping its something I can deal with.
Tom, it sure sounds like you will need to go into the clutch (you won't need to pull the engine unless the clutch basket is also bad)..

Before tearing into the clutch I would remove the bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder to the rear of the engine & pull the slave out a ways. Then see if the clutch still slips, if so it's into the clutch you go. If by chance the clutch pulls good with the slave cylinder pulled out then maybe the slave piston is sticking in it's bore & holding the clutch partially dis-engaged.

Another thing to try is: loosening the clutchhydraulic line at the hand lever master cylinder to see if that will allow the clutch to fully engage. It's possible the take-up port in the master cylinder is plugged with dirt or gunk & not allowing the master cylinder to bleed off at full release position (maybe try this option first as it is the easiest).. CAUTION: don't get any clutch (brake) fluid on your paint as that will permanently damage the paint..

There is also a very slight chance you have other woes like a slipping drive shaft spline or a failed out-put dampener but if that were the case you would probably have some snapping or other noise in conjunction with the slipping.

Twisty
 

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Silverfox wrote:
Hi Tom and welcome to a brilliant site, with experts in every field, who will be sure to get you through this and any other problems you get. Nice bike, worth getting right.

Have you tried the adjustment at the clutch cable, or am I teaching my grandmother to suck eggs? I am sure it won't be long before a Guru steps in and solves it for you, sorry I can't be of any more help, but I am about as useless at mechanics as a chocolate fireguard!
Pete, no clutch cable on the 84 Wing, (it's hydraulic)..

Twisty
 

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wingwarrior wrote:
Tom A bit more info on the bike would help I know on the 84-87 1200 there's no clutch adjustment you have to pull the motor to replace the clutch
wingwarrior, no, you don't have to pull the engine for a clutch replacement (disks or plates). It does have to come out for a clutch basket replacement though.

Twisty
 

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Tom, here is a look at that take-up port in the master cylinder that (if plugged)could allow fluid pressure to be trapped in the clutch hydraulic system. What that hole does is allow any remaining fluid pressure in the hydraulic system to befully released when the hand lever is in the released position. It also allows morefluid to enter the system on each new stroke (only if needed)..

Riding that bike last year with a slipping clutch probably didn't do it any good so you mightalso have damagethere from all that heat build up from slipping.

Twisty

 
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