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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tried to post this a few days ago but must have done something wrong cause it never appeared.

Anyhow I have just realized my cooling fan is no longer coming on at all. I'm pretty sure that it stopped working late last summer because I remember noticing the temps climbing a few times in town traffic.

Before posting I did some looking around on the web about this topic and found some useful info. I found the location of the buss fuse under the seat and it checked out ok. So I guess my switch is at fault.

I found that on one topic someone mentioned using another type of switch wired in that worked well for him. He said that this switch had a sort of dial that he could adjust to make the fan come on at what temp he chose it to.

Has anyone here tried this type of set up b4? Or know of what this part number might be and how it is wired in?

Thanks guys.
 

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1985 GL1200 A
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Tried to post this a few days ago but must have done something wrong cause it never appeared.

Anyhow I have just realized my cooling fan is no longer coming on at all. I'm pretty sure that it stopped working late last summer because I remember noticing the temps climbing a few times in town traffic.

Before posting I did some looking around on the web about this topic and found some useful info. I found the location of the buss fuse under the seat and it checked out ok. So I guess my switch is at fault.

I found that on one topic someone mentioned using another type of switch wired in that worked well for him. He said that this switch had a sort of dial that he could adjust to make the fan come on at what temp he chose it to.

Has anyone here tried this type of set up b4? Or know of what this part number might be and how it is wired in?

Thanks guys.
Will the fan operate with 12V applied to it? If so, I believe it's the temp sensor that is faulty. Have you cleaned the connections there? Any way you want to go is up to you and a pretty cheap fix to boot. Beats having a big "CLUNK" going on! Heavy-sounding "CLUNKS" are BAD!:ROFL:
 

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try a switch bypass

off of your radiator fan switch pull the wire going to the switch. while the bike is in the on position try gounding the wire. If the fan comes on, its the switch. You can bypass the switch by running a jumper wire from the switch wire to a ground on the bike somewhere. The switch is 50$ plus from the stealership but you can get an aftermarket for about 10. Had to do this last weekend myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
off of your radiator fan switch pull the wire going to the switch. while the bike is in the on position try gounding the wire. If the fan comes on, its the switch. You can bypass the switch by running a jumper wire from the switch wire to a ground on the bike somewhere. The switch is 50$ plus from the stealership but you can get an aftermarket for about 10. Had to do this last weekend myself.
Thanks for the info man! I wouldn't want to ground the wire and have the fan running full time but I will try this first to narrow it down to the switch. I'm fairly sure the switch is bad since I know the in line fuse is fine.

Still, I'm more interested in the aftermarket switch that can be wired in to control the fan than I am replacing the switch per say. What I mean is a switch that wires in and by passes the old one leaving it in place to plug the hole but taking over the fan.
 

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off of your radiator fan switch pull the wire going to the switch. while the bike is in the on position try gounding the wire. If the fan comes on, its the switch. You can bypass the switch by running a jumper wire from the switch wire to a ground on the bike somewhere. The switch is 50$ plus from the stealership but you can get an aftermarket for about 10. Had to do this last weekend myself.
Where are you finding fan switches for $10 even $50? Mine just went bad too and the best I can find online for oem Honda is $82 for my '87 1200.

For the time being I am just wiring in a manual switch I can turn on myself.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I have a manual switch on mine. I believe it is the best way to go here in the middle of AZ. The charging system certainly puts out enough current to run it all the time, but it may also wear out the fan motor faster. Almost everything runs hot here, very few vehicles were designed to operate in 120 degree heat. My air cooled bikes, and former VW bugs had to be jetted really rich to help keep them cool.
 

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This switch is supposed to work as a replacement but the connector is different so it would have to be changed.
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-201-1614-Thermo-Switch/dp/B000CB24CE/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1371254683&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=93+geo+fan+switch[/ame]
 

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I used a Honda car switch, and wired a $5 relay to take the current. This way I won't be buying switches all the time.
 

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I run a Manual switch tapped in line right at the rad. senor. I can turn the fans on when in town in stop and go and also leave the man. switch off and let the bike turn them on or off. It's just a good idea to have a man. switch when the senor fails at the rad.

Kurt
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I run a Manual switch tapped in line right at the rad. senor. I can turn the fans on when in town in stop and go and also leave the man. switch off and let the bike turn them on or off. It's just a good idea to have a man. switch when the senor fails at the rad.

Kurt
Great! Do you have a part number on your manual switch? That's what I'm looking for plus how it's wired in!
 
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