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Purchased an 84' goldwing for $50, seller said it ran good but he also decided to cut every wire hose and oil line. Just trying to get the engine running but the wiring diagram is overwhelming anyone have any advice on just getting the engine running.
 

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Wow,,,
Though there aren't many oil lines except for hydraulics for brakes...
Which side was cut on the wiring? between the end part and the plug or is the wire harness cut off of plugs?
 

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froche, you have no idea, he cut every wire as close to the electrical components as he could so he could take out the entire wiring harness and throw it away. I have relays and switches that just have tiny nub wires coming out of them. And with the oil lines for the clutch and the brakes instead of unbolting them supper easily he just cut them at both ends. But I will persevere.
 

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The major thing you would have to do to get it running besides getting another harness would be reconnecting the ignition module, the black box above the coils. I can't believe someone would do that. If he intended to replace the harness he would have to disconnect the connectors from the components anyway. And cut the brake and clutch lines!! What was he thinking?
 

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if he cut all the wiring and cables close to the components, that engine is now spare parts.
None of the electrical components affect the engine itself.
 

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Just done something similar with a 1500 and it took me months plus great help from members here and i have been working on bike electrics forover 40 years so have a good working knowledge.
If you are new to electrics/electronics i would say part it out and buy a running bike
 

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Wow this is a really great community, I have been stalling on this project for a while I'm sure you've all seen the electrical schematic. I must address though that I'm a 3rd year mechanical engineer and even if I had the rear wheel I'm not exactly looking for a ridable bike, but rather learn about a more complicated engine than the little one cylinder harbor freight engines I've played with before. You'll take one look and cry because it will probably never be ridable again. I got a bucket of parts and I'm pretty sure the ignition control unit and I think I have the engine critical components mapped out, so I can strip and solder this mess together. Thank god I don't think the guy opened the engine and screwed with the timing chain, but the engine was sitting for a while.

Bottom line what are some typical problems with these engines over time (IE which components usually go bad first)? I'm doubtful that everything will work the first time I try and turn it over.

And thank you everyone for your help
 

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but the engine was sitting for a while.

Bottom line what are some typical problems with these engines over time (IE which components usually go bad first)?
Sitting for a while the carbs will no doubt need work. The only real problems are the stator (charging system) and the pulse generators (ignition system). The engines mechanically hardly ever have a problem. You should try turning it by hand just to be sure it will turn. There is a plug on the left rear of the engine (17mm), take it out and turn the bolt underneath (12mm) clockwise.
 

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Just to see if it fires/runs you could power the fuel pump and feed with petrol from a can then work out what connects pulse coils to igniter unit then unit to coils, figure out the power feeds into the igniter then jump the starter.
IF it fires and runs don't run it for long and do check there is oil in it first
 

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If the engine has been a non running unit for a while, I'd change the timing belts first. The belts, id sitting for a while, can get a 'memory' and can then break easier. This engine is an interference engine, belt breaks = valves and pistons meet
 

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Purchased an 84' goldwing for $50, seller said it ran good but he also decided to cut every wire hose and oil line. Just trying to get the engine running but the wiring diagram is overwhelming anyone have any advice on just getting the engine running.
I have to wonder ……. "why" all this angst just to see if a engine runs. If it isn't locked up, it will run if certain conditions are addressed but it won't run until support systems (carbs & ignition) are back on line. It's still just a 4 stroke, 4 cylinder engine not very far removed from those you play with from HF. The "complications" are just 4 versus 1 of each rod, piston, valve pairs …. and the 1200 has a transmission stashed under it.

I'm guessing from your other 2 posts, you just bought the engine or bike remains as a toy.

I do wonder though, why everything was cut? Was he gonna part it out? Maybe swap the bulk into a bike with bent rods or valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have to wonder ……. "why" all this angst just to see if a engine runs. If it isn't locked up, it will run if certain conditions are addressed but it won't run until support systems (carbs & ignition) are back on line. It's still just a 4 stroke, 4 cylinder engine not very far removed from those you play with from HF. The "complications" are just 4 versus 1 of each rod, piston, valve pairs …. and the 1200 has a transmission stashed under it.

I'm guessing from your other 2 posts, you just bought the engine or bike remains as a toy.

I do wonder though, why everything was cut? Was he gonna part it out? Maybe swap the bulk into a bike with bent rods or valves?
The guy I bought it from said he was going to build a bobber out of it and got in over his head probably because he tore everything off. And yes mechanically I think its going to run but want to make sure that I don't screw something up when I turn it over the first time. At some point or another I probably gonna have to deal with tuning the timing cams if the belts are trashed.

Also side note how does the final drive/direct drive deliver power to the wheel, and does it just drive the wheel around a fixed axle?

Thanks
 

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. At some point or another I probably gonna have to deal with tuning the timing cams if the belts are trashed.
If the belts are trashed so is the engine At least pull the timing covers off and see if they are intact and look like they will hold a little longer before you turn the engine over, then change them before running.
 

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Heres what i would first
1 remove belt covers
2 IF belts there and in good order rotate engine clockwise SLOWLY and GENTLY using the large hex on the front of the crank
3 IF you get two FULL revolutions of the crank THEN work on trying to get it to fire
 

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Also side note how does the final drive/direct drive deliver power to the wheel, and does it just drive the wheel around a fixed axle?
The ring gear drives a splined adapter that drives the wheel, all are centered on the rear axle (axle does not rotate).
 

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A "Ring and Pinion" arrangement, just like an automotive drive axle except there's no differential and the Ring gear drives the rear wheel directly.
 

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I would consider any bike I could not listen to and drive , a parts bike. Especially if the wiring harness had been butchered. Buy yourself a good running used Gold Wing. You will more than likely get all the wrenching experience you can handle. Depending on age and mileage. .
gumbyred
 
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