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Hi everyone. I recently put my 1984 Interstate back on the road after a stator failure sidelined it for a few years. To be clear, the 2-year layoff was mainly due to my procrastination. Once I finally got around to it, the stator replacement project only took a couple of weekends and actually went pretty smoothly thanks mainly to a couple of great videos I found on this site.....so, thank you! I also took the opportunity to replace the timing belts and the water pump, as well as a few other parts and it has been running great ever since. However, last weekend, I went for a 3-hour ride (the first extended ride I have taken since putting it back on the road) and I had an issue that I'm having a hard time explaining. I've seen a couple of similar threads, but nothing that seemed to be a perfect match, so I decided to start a new thread to get your thoughts.

About an hour into my ride, I noticed that the turn signal switch had not cancelled from the last time I used them, but the turn signal had turned off anyway. I then realized that the turn signals were no longer working at all, nor were the tach, the fuel gauge, or any of the instrumentation lights. Unfortunately, I did not take the time to do a complete "inventory" of what else may have not been working, so that is all that I know of. For example, I do not know if I had a headlight or brake lights. I did stop once and turned the bike off just to see what would happen. When I attempted to start it again, neither the ignition light or the neutral indicator light were working, but it started just fine and it did not appear that the battery had been drained at all. The bike continued to run fine despite all the electrical items that had gone dead. At one point, about 45 minutes of riding after the issue first started, I made a quick stop for a cup of coffee and when I started the bike after that, everything was suddenly back to normal and working fine. It has continued to work normally ever since.

Looking over the electrical diagram, it appears that everything that I know was not working was fed by several fuses all fed from the black wire from the ignition switch. My first thought was that there might be an issue with the ignition switch, but it looks like that same black wire also feeds another fuse that keeps the bike running as well, so that seems to rule out that possibility. My next thought was a possible grounding issue, but the way it both began and ended like the "flick of a switch", it certainly didn't act like a loose ground either. For example, throughout the 45 minutes, I never once saw the tach try to "flicker" back to life, which is what I would have expected to see with an intermittent ground connection. I was driving on some bumpy back roads for the entire trip, so I would have expected that to happen at some point if it were any kind of loose connection. It didn't as far as I know. Of course, everything is working now and nothing appears to be "out of place", so I have no way to confirm anything.....and again, the bike continued to run fine throughout the ordeal.

Ideally, I'd really like to be able to duplicate the problem so that I know it is fixed rather than simply cleaning connections at random an hoping I solved the problem. Any suggestions for a plan of attack? Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to provide the whole story. Thank you for taking the time to read it and I look forward to your input.
 

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Man.... you wrote a book. :)
If you look at my modifued diagram below you should see the power for the tach and turn lights are on the marked 15 amp fuse. I would think if you pull that fuse both the tack and the turn lights will quit as you describe. Might be a bad connection between the fuse and fuse box or a connection at the back of the fuse box to the fuse holder etc. I bet the issue is in that area. If there was an issue farther downstream it would only affect the turn lightts or tach but not both. It has to be before the tee.

Screenshot (139)_LI.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Mike! Yeah, sorry about the book. My father was a writer, so I blame him.
;)
What puzzles me here though, are the neutral indicator and the fuel gauge, which are fed from the black/brown fuse. So, I had several devices from several different fuses all failing and returning to life simultaneously., but seemingly without any intermittency in between.....all completely off for 45 minutes of riding, then all completely back on in an instant, at least as far as I could tell. It doesn't make sense to me.

The fact that the devices were on more than one fuse seems to point to a loose connection on the ground side of the circuits, but again, I would expect to see some erratic behavior if that were the case. I suppose it is possible that I just didn't notice it, but I think I would have. I may have to just take it for another long ride and hope that it happens again so that I can make a more complete list of exactly what is and isn't working when it malfunctions.
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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Hondaman19, What I would suggest is you look on Ebay for a copy of the 1984 GL1200 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.. I have one for my '85 Ltd Ed and it covers the Aspy and Interstate as well as mine! It contains TONS of solid troubleshooting information along with not only schematics but also Pictures of the systems described in the different sections! It has troubleshooting steps to take to diagnose ALL of the bikes systems and also it shows you where all the ground points are with pictures!!

Try it and see!!
 

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Thanks, Mike! Yeah, sorry about the book. My father was a writer, so I blame him.
;)
What puzzles me here though, are the neutral indicator and the fuel gauge, which are fed from the black/brown fuse. So, I had several devices from several different fuses all failing and returning to life simultaneously., but seemingly without any intermittency in between.....all completely off for 45 minutes of riding, then all completely back on in an instant, at least as far as I could tell. It doesn't make sense to me.

The fact that the devices were on more than one fuse seems to point to a loose connection on the ground side of the circuits, but again, I would expect to see some erratic behavior if that were the case. I suppose it is possible that I just didn't notice it, but I think I would have. I may have to just take it for another long ride and hope that it happens again so that I can make a more complete list of exactly what is and isn't working when it malfunctions.
I'm going to stick with my original theory (guess :rolleyes:) ......sort of. If you look at the wiring diagram you should see the red wire brings power to the ignition switch at all times. When you turn on the key the black wire gets power. If you follow the b;ack wire you will see the black wire goes to a tee. One branch of the tee goes to the start and kill switch. Those must function fine as you say the bike starts and runs even when the issue is present. Therefore we can rule out that brach of the tee.
Now for the other branch of the tee notice it feeds power to the fuse box. .If there were an issue anywhere after the tee all the way through the fuse box it would account for your issues. You could lose headlights, meters, tail lights, horn, . Stop turn neutral and oil lights. You can't be sure which or even all were gone. I bet the issue is going to be after the branch where the black wire tee that goes to the fuse box and the fuse box itself.
I would concentrate on the plug and plug connector with special attention to the black wire and terminals. Make sure the wire connection at the fuse box plug is clean and not burned. Next I would really look over the fuse box and if all was well I would find the splice at the tee. Bet the issue is going to be somewhere by the red line in the picture.
323969
 

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Hondaman19

I sent you a PM / conversation with some info in it.

click on your Avatar at the top right of the page, you will see a RED DOT there, that indicates that someone has sent you a message.

after you click on the avatar, select 'Conversations'
 

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1993 GL1500 Aspy 1980 GL1100 STD
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I've had fuse holders get corroded in my 1100 where the holders weren't making good contact to the caps of the glass fuse. Had to take the fuses out and clean up the metal clips that the fuses snap into, and also the fuse end caps.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone for your input. Just for the record, I do have the original Honda factory service manual and the original Honda factory electrical troubleshooting guide. The problem I have is that the issue came and went without a trace, so right now, everything I look at or measure is working and checks out fine. As I mentioned, I really don't want to start randomly cleaning connections and never knowing if I have really fixed the problem or or not. Unfortunately, the "poke and hope" approach may be my only option.
 

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Hondaman19, you need to "poke and hope" in the fuse box where redwing52 suggested. You might just see the problem there with a bad or corroded connection.
 

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Thanks everyone for your input. Just for the record, I do have the original Honda factory service manual and the original Honda factory electrical troubleshooting guide. The problem I have is that the issue came and went without a trace, so right now, everything I look at or measure is working and checks out fine. As I mentioned, I really don't want to start randomly cleaning connections and never knowing if I have really fixed the problem or or not. Unfortunately, the "poke and hope" approach may be my only option.
With all the info you have given I bet the issue will be visible if you unplug the connector at the fuse box and scrutinize the wires and terminals. Especially the black wire. Might see a connection issue or heat damage.
 

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Hi everyone. I recently put my 1984 Interstate back on the road after a stator failure sidelined it for a few years. To be clear, the 2-year layoff was mainly due to my procrastination. Once I finally got around to it, the stator replacement project only took a couple of weekends and actually went pretty smoothly thanks mainly to a couple of great videos I found on this site.....so, thank you! I also took the opportunity to replace the timing belts and the water pump, as well as a few other parts and it has been running great ever since. However, last weekend, I went for a 3-hour ride (the first extended ride I have taken since putting it back on the road) and I had an issue that I'm having a hard time explaining. I've seen a couple of similar threads, but nothing that seemed to be a perfect match, so I decided to start a new thread to get your thoughts.

About an hour into my ride, I noticed that the turn signal switch had not cancelled from the last time I used them, but the turn signal had turned off anyway. I then realized that the turn signals were no longer working at all, nor were the tach, the fuel gauge, or any of the instrumentation lights. Unfortunately, I did not take the time to do a complete "inventory" of what else may have not been working, so that is all that I know of. For example, I do not know if I had a headlight or brake lights. I did stop once and turned the bike off just to see what would happen. When I attempted to start it again, neither the ignition light or the neutral indicator light were working, but it started just fine and it did not appear that the battery had been drained at all. The bike continued to run fine despite all the electrical items that had gone dead. At one point, about 45 minutes of riding after the issue first started, I made a quick stop for a cup of coffee and when I started the bike after that, everything was suddenly back to normal and working fine. It has continued to work normally ever since.

Looking over the electrical diagram, it appears that everything that I know was not working was fed by several fuses all fed from the black wire from the ignition switch. My first thought was that there might be an issue with the ignition switch, but it looks like that same black wire also feeds another fuse that keeps the bike running as well, so that seems to rule out that possibility. My next thought was a possible grounding issue, but the way it both began and ended like the "flick of a switch", it certainly didn't act like a loose ground either. For example, throughout the 45 minutes, I never once saw the tach try to "flicker" back to life, which is what I would have expected to see with an intermittent ground connection. I was driving on some bumpy back roads for the entire trip, so I would have expected that to happen at some point if it were any kind of loose connection. It didn't as far as I know. Of course, everything is working now and nothing appears to be "out of place", so I have no way to confirm anything.....and again, the bike continued to run fine throughout the ordeal.

Ideally, I'd really like to be able to duplicate the problem so that I know it is fixed rather than simply cleaning connections at random an hoping I solved the problem. Any suggestions for a plan of attack? Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to provide the whole story. Thank you for taking the time to read it and I look forward to your input.
I have the same stator issue, would you mind posting the videos you used?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The engine removal video is here:
The stator replacement video is here:
In addition, I created the attached checklist to go along with the video. It is a list of all the steps in the video with two sets of check boxes. I checked off the items in the left column as the engine came out, then worked backwards checking the boxes in the right column as it went back together. In addition, I put all the hardware in ziploc bags with the step number on them, which made it really easy to keep track of all the hardware. It must have worked because I didn't have a single leftover bolt when I was finished!
Good luck, CAVDETECT!
 

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Awesome job there, and I really like your double check box idea.
 

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just looked at your check sheet, that makes it easy for someone to get an idea of what has to be done.

you put in a lot of work, just to make up that sheet while you were taking it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, I had a chance to tear things apart to inspect connections, check continuity, etc., and as I suspected, there is no physical evidence of any problems. Nothing shows evidence of overheating and all the connections that I could get to are clean. I had actually gone through all of the connections when I did the stator project, so no surprises there. I'm ready to give up on that search and just hope that I have somehow addressed the problem in the process. Regretfully, I will have to settle for the poke-and-hope approach and keep fingers crossed for now.

However, I did discover one unrelated problem. The vacuum hose coming from the CDI tee is not connected to the carburetor. As I understand it, it connects somewhere on the left front carb. However, I have looked all over the place for a good picture of exactly where this hose is supposed to go and I cannot find the fitting on the carb. I currently have the lower left fairing removed and I have have gotten in there with an inspection mirror and a flashlight from every imaginable angle and I just can't see it. I have found many pictures of the entire carbs assembly showing the hose itself, but none of them show exactly where the hose terminates on the carb.

How the heck do I find this thing?!?!? Any thoughts? Does anybody have a carb lying on a bench somewhere that can provide a picture of the fitting itself? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks, guys! I had seen that article. That is one of the many pictures I have found showing the hose going down between the carbs, but not showing exactly where it terminates. Of course, everything is really tight around there, so getting a good look at where it should go or even getting some light in there is extremely challenging. That's why I'm hoping somebody can provide a picture of the fitting on an uninstalled carb, so I can figure out where to be looking.

It doesn't help matters that the hose had been pulled clear of everything and was stuck up along the air cleaner box. BTW, I didn't remove this hose. It has apparently been disconnected since I have owned the bike.
 
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