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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. My rear brake started dragging recently, getting stedaily worse. To the point where she wouldnt pull up hill. So I thought probably wants the pads changing out and clean up the pistons to free them up. So this week my new pads arrive and I swap them out. I must say that the GW caliper is probably one of the easier bikes to change pads on IMHO. I noticed, though that when I was trying to push the pistons back in, they would only go so far back until starting to pus the other one out. So I packed the 2nd piston to stop it moving and gave the other on some gent persuasion(!) and it wil not budge past a certain point. This worked on all 4 pistons front and back. So after a bit of searching around this great forum, I guess it must be the return holes in the MC blocked. I then try to remove the MC for examination to find that the flare nuts are rusted solid. I don't have a flare wrench and cant get a vise grip on to it in situ. My questions are, does anyone have any opinions on using an inline connector. I tought maybe I could cut the line and remove it that way. I can then effect a repair with a bit more space to play with. Dont fancy ripping out the fuel tank!. Are the brake line a 3/8"pipe? I think this seems to be the cheapest option to the problem. Any Thoughts?!
 

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The lines are 10mm flares. Cut the line and take the MC out then replace the line IMO.
 

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I'm with Dave
Replace the lines with Stainless Steel lines.
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/7-sale-wanted-forum/322214-stainless-steel-lines-offered.html

Sounds like you need to totally go through the calipers and master cylinders with a thorough cleaning and rebuild kits too. That sticking piston is an indication of dirty calipers with gunk in the seal grooves. They will need to be carefully scraped out using a dental pic. Don't scratch the bores.
And yes the return port in the master cylinder might be gummed.
The brake fluid, DOT4, in the brakes and clutch need to be changed yearly to keep the systems from getting gunk built up in there. The calipers and the clutch slave cyl get the worst buildups and cause sticking pistons and leaking seals.
Over 2-3 years or more, only a total strip down and thorough cleaning will clear it out. Flushing alone at that point doesn't get the gunk out.

Sent from my LS670 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies. I am ordering the seal kits tomorrow! I saw on another post that if you remove the fluid reservoir and tube and plastic fitment from the MC, that you can get in with a vise grip. So will try this first before cutting the line. Will order the connectors first just in case. I saw today that all the affordable flaring tools only state for use with copper or aluminum. Has anyone had any success flaring the lines on the GW with these tools. The difference in price is quite a jump. Interestingly, the imperial size ones, which look similar, say suitable for soft steel. I'm confused! Hopefully I'll have the old girl back to full strength soon! On another note a I changed my timing belts this week. The job was relatively easy to do, but if I could impart a piece of advice to anyone thinking of tackling the same job it would be this.......Don't forget to replace the timing plug above the starter motor. If like me you stand the throttle side when you start the machine, when you start to smell burning oil, its too late...........You alright have a mess to clean!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Confirmed! I was another blocked return port victim! Once the reservoir plastic link was taken off, I could get a pair of vise grips in and crack the lines. Didn't lunch them either so they are still usable! So all new seals, fluid and pads, and a Wing that now rolls backwards effortlessly! Thanks to this great site!

Cheers!:claps:
 

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Good to hear that you are back up and running ....and stopping. Be sure and check the rotors for heat after a few miles and using the brakes. If hot, you still have something sticking and will wear the pads quickly and warp the rotors. As it was the rear master cylinder, the right front caliper is linked to the rear.
 
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