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I just re-installed the motor in a '84 GL1200 that I had removed to replace the stator in. During the removal process I had disconnected the clutch line at the slave cylinder. Anyway after it was all back together I went for a short test ride and all was fine including the clutch. The next morning when I started it it wanted to creep forward and I was unable to get it into neutral without shutting it off. It was also difficult to shift up and down through the gears. Assuming there was air in the hydraulic system I bled both the master cylinder and the slave cylinder a couple of times. This did not help. I then removed the slave cylinder, cleaned it up good ( was a mess)and replaced the piston seals and installed a new spring. Put it back together again and bled the system. Started it while on the center stand, shifted perfectly up and down and easily found neutral. The rear wheel did not spin when in gear. Engaged the rear brake and it still shifted great. I figured I had fixed it. Let it warm up for a few minutes and took it off of the center stand. Started doing the same thing all over again, creeping forward and could'nt shift to neutral. Checked the return hole in the master cylinder and it is clear the clutch lever feels right and the plunger bushing is new. The engine oil is new Castrol 10w40............ Has anyone had a similar problem and if so how did you remedy it. I have another clutch pack that I can try if necessary but I would like to exhaust all other possibilities first..............
 

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If it was working OK before it should be the same now.

I would try the sea foam treatment.

How far is the clutch lever moving before you feel any pressure?
 

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I wouldn't suspect clutch plates at this time since it sounds like the clutch is not disengaging and not slipping. I see some most folks have more success bleeding the fluid at the banjo bolt on the master cylinder with the bars turned so the left bar is the highest. It sounds like you need to bleed the system some more.
 

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Tricky....I agree it should work as it did before. As you know there is no need to go near the clutch when doing a stator job. The clutch feels normal with about 3/4 inch of travel before pressure. And jw the symptoms sure point to air in the system but no amount of bleeding of both the slave and the master cylinders has worked yet. I will give bleeding another shot...thanks
 

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Greg, Try this...try opening the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder with the master cylinder reservoir cap off...have the bars turned to the left, and let it gravity bleed for about 5 minutes...be sure to keep the fluid level full. Then, have someone squeeze the clutch handle hard and fast and hold it down. Close it while the handle is depressed and held. Do this 2-3 times, and it should force all the remaining air out of the system. WHat u are describing sounds like there's an air pocket at the slave cylinder. IF for whatever reason that doesn't work, then u may have to rig up a pressure bleeder to force it out. I've run into that same problem with brakes as well as on a clutch system on a Saab 900 Turbo once...
 

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domscorpiorlg ... thanks I will give your method a try. What has me confused is that it initially worked great on my first test drive. I wonder how it could be picking up air?
 

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GLGREZMONKI wrote:
domscorpiorlg ... thanks I will give your method a try. What has me confused is that it initially worked great on my first test drive. I wonder how it could be picking up air?
May not be picking up air, just moving it around.
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:

May not be picking up air, just moving it around.[/quote] ........ good thought you are probably right......... thanks
 

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If the lever feels the same cold when things work and hot when they don't then it's not a problem with air in the line.

I have no idea where the problem lies but it started when you removed and re-installed the rear case.:?
 

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Ken.........right now it creeps ,hot or cold........but the lever feels the same hot or cold
 

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GLGREZMONKI wrote:
Ken.........right now it creeps ,hot or cold........but the lever feels the same hot or cold
In your initial post you said things worked on the centre stand but after a warm up on the ground it started to drag.

If the clutch lever feels the same as before you re & re'd the rear case I would be looking there, for what I have no idea.:?
 

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I know normally one doesn't mess with the clutch line except to disengage it from the slave, I wonder if it is kinked or the metal section squashed at all.
Almost might sound like a soft or perished rubber clutch line.

27 years old
 

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Did you pump out the old fluid and replace it with new ?
Just a thought. Mine did that one time when it ran low on
fluid for some reason. I removed the resivore cap and cleaned every thing inside including that little ball
in the bottom, refilled it and no more problems.
You probably tried that but it worked for me.
 

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Today I bled till I could bleed no more. Does not seem to be any air in the system and the lever feels right.( Vac pump and the old fashioned way )I then changed the clutch pack with one I had from a low mileage wreck (14,000 k) as opposed to 170,000 K) . I am happy with that however it is still doing the exact same thing. So I have eliminated the clutch itself, the slave has been rebuilt.The only thing left is a possible bad line, as mentioned by Tricky. That was the only thing that was disturbed in the beginning. or the master cylinder. The lever bushing is new as is the plunger. New top but it has not been rebuilt..... or still air somewhere! Any more ideas?
 

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I have heard of brake lines and fuel lines deteriorating and a flap of the rubber lining would prevent the fluid from flowing. In the case of a brake or clutch line the flap would open when you applied pressure but would close up the line preventing the fluid from returning to the master cylinder.

I have no first hand experience with this and it may be an old wife's tale.
 

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I will, I have s/s brake lines and they are great. Did you retain the original steel parts of the line on yours or is one piece s/s from master to slave?
 

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GLGREZMONKI wrote:
I will, I have s/s brake lines and they are great. Did you retain the original steel parts of the line on yours or is one piece s/s from master to slave?
I can't see stainless steel lines making any difference on a low pressure system like the clutch.
You've bled the lines and the lever feels right so the problem is deeper in the engine.

It could be wear grooves in the clutch basket but that doesn't explain why it happened suddenly.:?
 

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I have changed everything... the clutch pack, lifter plate,lifter guide, pushrod, slave cylinder,hydraulic line, master cylinder kit, push pin, lever and lever bushing and yet it still creeps,hard to shift, cant get neutral etc. Has anyone ever experienced this problem before? Is it possible to have the proper feel at the lever and still have air somewhere? I have bleed it using all the tricks and cant see any air and yet it still wont work....Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.
 

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When I bought my 1985 GL1200A I was given the name of a backyard/shade tree guy between Bedford and Magazine hill by the previous owner who had nothing but good words to say about him and his skill with Goldwings and his work on that bike. Now I can't vouch for him myself but do you want his email address as he is probably very near you and may be another set of eyes?
 
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