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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally got this thing on the road a few weeks back. Two new tires, brakes rebuilt and NOT hanging. It starts like a champ. I'm having a hell of a time getting the carbs adjusted right. Or I am expecting too much. Anyway, it seems that it idles higher when warmed up and temp is halfway up the bars than when temp is only one or two segments up. Maybe this is normal. I started with the mixture screws 3-1/2 turns out as directed by book. I warmed it up and synched the carbs with a full set of gauges. They indicated 8-9" Hg at idle. I believe the synch was supposed to be done at idle. I then attempted to adjust the mixture screws. Two and four worked as I would have expected. Dialed in, RPMs went up some and then dropped. I found this point and backed out one turn. Three worked roughly the same. One on the other hand only seemed to increase RPMs but I wouldn't see the subsequent drop as I leaned it out. I pulled all four plugs and cleaned them. Two, three and four looked fine. One was the dry sooty black. I wire brushed all of them and checked gap again and reinstalled. I filled tank to very top and put 140miles on it yesterday. Filled tank to top when done. 35mpg. Half of trip was city driving 45mph or so. Other half was 80 on the expressway. This bike only ever got 35mpg since I bought it twenty some years ago. I was hoping for a bit more but maybe I'll stay out of the throttle on the next road trip.

Tonight I checked synch again. Golden. Adjusted mixture screws again starting with #1 this time. Ultimately ended up with #1 & #2 at 2-1/2 turns out and #3 & #4 at 1 to 1-1/4 turns out.

Pulled the plugs. #2, #3 & #4 looked textbook. #1 on the other hand was dry, black and sooty again. Cleaned it again. Flipped plugs from #1 and #3 when I reinstalled. Ran bike for five minutes or so and #1 plug (used to be in #3) was sooty already.

I'm afraid of leaning this out too far. Everything I've read seems to agree that this is an issue with too much fuel. I've seen mixed opinions on whether or not leaning it out makes much of a difference when at speed.

I haven't removed the plug and checked for spark. I have pulled the cap with it running and I can hear it arcing. Tomorrow I will see about checking wire resistance. But if it is sparking I would think that it would be firing fine and looking like the other three. I do not hear any backfiring to indicate that the fuel is building up in the cylinder.

Not sure what to think. I could see the float causing it to run dry or lean. Could it cause it to run too rich as well?

My understanding of the diaphragm is that as the vacuum increases, the diaphragm withdraws the needle and that's where more fuel comes from. I wouldn't think it would make sense that this one could be letting in too much fuel through this process.

I'm a little stumped here. Any thoughts? Other than this the performance seems to be just find. It gets up and moves as well as it ever did. I think I have to adjust one of the valves. On occasion I'll see a little white smoke.

Here's another thing of curiosity. On the Aspencade, are the two split tail pipes at the end out of the same muffler as it appears to be or are the tail pipes individual all the way up to the engine exhaust? Years ago I had a two cylinder that I would pseudo synch the carbs based on discharge temperature of the pipes. I noticed tonight that the two outboard pipes are cool while the two inboard pipes were warm as one might expect. I wasn't sure if this would indicate that two cylinders are running warmer than the other two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A note about the jets

I was thinking about this problem today. While I was rebuilding the carburetors I had a .013" wire (maximum recommended) I used to clean out the holes in the jets. It's been a couple of months now but it seems to me that it's the slow speed jet that has the orifice hole in the middle of it. Of the four jets, one of them I could pass this wire completely through. The other three I could not. Now I'm wondering if because of this larger hole is it passing more fuel than it should be? Of course this assumes that this particular jet was installed in the #1 carb. I'm not sure about that. If this sounds plausible I'll order another set and just replace them all. It's the best explanation that I can come up with given the little bit that I understand how they work.:?
 

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You are on the right track. 5 minutes of run time and black already, definite problem. Like mentioned it could have the wrong jet, broken mixture screw, high float level, leaking float valve or heavy float. Float levels could all be off seeing how mixture screws are all on the lean side. If anything on an older engine they would like to be a little on the richer side. OEM fuel pump or something else?

After resistance checking your wires it should then put the ign. system in the clear. One other item which could cause a black plug is low compression in that cylinder. From your description engine seems to run OK, but seeing how you are in for the long haul a compression test would be in order just to eliminate that possibility.

You might be able to get around a compression test by noting a similar RPM drop when running with plug wire removed compared to the other 3. The rich running cylinder might skew the results though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Todays Findings

Like mentioned it could have the wrong jet, broken mixture screw, high float level, leaking float valve or heavy float. Float levels could all be off seeing how mixture screws are all on the lean side. If anything on an older engine they would like to be a little on the richer side. OEM fuel pump or something else?

After resistance checking your wires it should then put the ign. system in the clear. One other item which could cause a black plug is low compression in that cylinder. From your description engine seems to run OK, but seeing how you are in for the long haul a compression test would be in order just to eliminate that possibility.
Fuel pump is a brand new Honda pump.

Checked compression today. Removed plugs, installed compression gauge, placed kill switch in off and rolled over by starter. Each cylinder was 110psi plus or minus 5.

Removed plenum and carburetors again.

Disconnected each plug wire from the ignition coils. Resistance on #1 wire was 5.61K, #2->6.05K, #3->5.84K, #4->6.07K. This spec is 5 plus or minus 1.25K.

Ignition coil for #1 & #2 reads 15.13K, #3 & #4 reads 15.11K. The way I read the book, this measurement is actually supposed to include the two plug wires associated with each solenoid as well. If I add these in then I have #1 & #2 at 27.02K and #3 & #4 at 26.79K. The spec is 19 plus or minus 2.7K. So the coils would be slightly high resistance but I don't believe this is an ignition problem anyway. Just thought I'd check while I was in there again.

This is where it gets interesting.

I flipped the plenum and carb assembly upside down and took all of the bowl covers off.


Look closely at the gasket on #3 at the top of this picture:


It looks as if something has chewed at it. This is not the cylinder that was having the rich issue. The other three bowl gaskets look fine. I don't know what the hell happened to this one.:wtf:

I also noticed that the floats in #1 visually look as if they are sitting a little bit higher than the others. #1 is on the right, #2 is on the left. This should translate to it providing too much gas. I'll adjust these tomorrow morning.
 

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Ign. and compression OK for the age.

Your pics dont clickey so we can't see nothing.

You do know to adjust float setting just touching the spring loaded float valve. If done otherwise with float resting on valve it will be rich.:)

Are float valves all the same style or has one or more been replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you saying that you can't see the pictures in the post itself? I see them on the laptop and the phone at this end. Or that you can't click on them to download or open in a viewer?

Try these:
http://imageshack.us/a/img20/6387/q73d.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img443/5995/guqs.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img825/1548/fslj.jpg

All floats are the same style. I'm assuming original. They haven't been changed in the 20+ I've had it. When I had them out during the rebuild I didn't find any gas in them. I'd read about that in a post somewhere.

I also thought I was quite careful about not bending them. I don't know how that could have happened. Anyway, I have never adjusted these before but did glance over it in the book and the radakk's guide for the rebuild as well. I'll review that again. I have 7mm stuck in my head for some reason and something about it lightly touching the spring. I believe that's what you are alluding to.
 
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