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Discussion Starter #1
hello everyone, the past couple of weeks it has been difficult to start up the wing. I simply just havent been able to get electricity. I turn the key and nothing happens. i wiggle the key around and the lights come on and off. i have to turn it the key extremely slowly to try and find the sweet spot and gently remove my hand so i can finally press the start button. the bigger problem is that when i ride, all the vibration makes the system shut off and this is terribly dangerous, luckily this hasn't happened on the highway yet. any idea what the problem may be? I need to repair this as soon as possible!!
 

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Honda cars had the same recall over several year models and even if it has been done and happens again they will still do it under the recall.
 

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Switches wear out. You didn’t mention the year, but a small possibility on at least earlier models is the L-shaped connector at the bottom of the ignition switch is loose. More likely you need a new switch.
 

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I have a nice/clean used one for $40 + shipping.

These are a pain to replace on a dresser with the fairing on. You need to loosen the fork cross over air line tube fittings and drop it straight down for the base wires/clamp to clear it. After it's installed, push the air line up to the bottom of the switch base to help hold the base cover tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There was a safety recall on the early 1984 Goldwings for that very thing.
Check with your dealer to see if yours is affected and if the replacement has been done.
how do i do this? Do I go to any honda dealer? or any bike dealer? i just read o another thread here that all the 84's that were produced after MAY 1984 dont qualify for the recall because they have the new switch, how do i check for this?

Switches wear out. You didn’t mention the year, but a small possibility on at least earlier models is the L-shaped connector at the bottom of the ignition switch is loose. More likely you need a new switch.
its an 84. ill try and check for this.

I have a nice/clean used one for $40 + shipping.

These are a pain to replace on a dresser with the fairing on. You need to loosen the fork cross over air line tube fittings and drop it straight down for the base wires/clamp to clear it. After it's installed, push the air line up to the bottom of the switch base to help hold the base cover tight.
i see, this is a side topic, but ive been trying to figure out how to remove the fairing for a paint job anyway. is removing the fairing a pain as well?
 

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is removing the fairing a pain as well?

Not really all that hard if you are a methodical and meticulous type of person.

Remove the lowers & inner covers.

Remove the windshield & headlight.

Unplug the wiring on both sides.

Remove the bolts holding the fairing & remove the fairing.*

* This step is much easier with a helper.

Pay me my consultation fee. ** >:)

** PayPal only.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not really all that hard if you are a methodical and meticulous type of person.

Remove the lowers & inner covers.

Remove the windshield & headlight.

Unplug the wiring on both sides.

Remove the bolts holding the fairing & remove the fairing.*

* This step is much easier with a helper.

Pay me my consultation fee. ** >:)

** PayPal only.

thanks dennis! i wiil pay you with anothe question :ROFL: . is read there were two different types of switches, one with a single connector and a double connector. how do i tell which one i have?
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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thanks dennis! i wiil pay you with anothe question :ROFL: . is read there were two different types of switches, one with a single connector and a double connector. how do i tell which one i have?
The double connector was only used on the GL1200 that came without a fairing.
 

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Well, I can't afford it, but here's my two cents....
You can repair/clean the switch. It will last for a season. Maybe. Switches get dirty, but they also wear.
You can replace it with a known good part (If you don't buy CWN's...I want it)
You do not "have" to remove the fairing. The crossover pipe IS IN THE WAY, but it will turn down (swivel) out of the way far enough to remove the switch assy. I've had mine out on the '86 twice. Once to clean, once to replace.
Make sure you clean and check the electrical connections at the 8pin connector. They get hot and burn.
 

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HONDA GL1200 1984: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Make : HONDA Model : GL1200 Year : 1984
Build Dates : 1983-05-01 - 1984-05-01

2 of my standards were built 10/83 while the one I called about the recall built 1/84 was denied, so in effect, Honda should of issued me a 3 screw base under the recall campaign listed....good luck with yours.
 

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Honda is still honoring a recall on a 34 year old bike? At this point I would think it would be past it's expected life & your problem to maintain. I thought I saw some were that Honda stated that there would be no more gl1800 frame recalls performed because it is over 10 years ago now & that any cracks reported now are considered normal wear & tear issues on a 10+ year old vehicle.
 

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Check the language. Recalls are generally for the life of the vehicle. Campaigns on the other hand, can be dismissed at the issuer's discretion. It's up to the customer to raise a stink over obligation.
 

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If you are interested in trying something you might consider a relay. When you turn on the key it puts a heavy load on the ignition switch. Very possible it is just too much for the switch to handle. If you add a relay it is possible you can make the switch last indefinitely as is. I suspect the switch has to handle in the area of 30 amps when all is turned on, give or take. That might well be the reason it balks. If you wired a relay in that circuit the draw would be reduced from 30 amps to a small fraction of an amp. Take that much load off the switch and it might last a long time. Not expensive to do. About $15 and a half hour work. :)
 

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If you are interested in trying something you might consider a relay. When you turn on the key it puts a heavy load on the ignition switch. Very possible it is just too much for the switch to handle. If you add a relay it is possible you can make the switch last indefinitely as is. I suspect the switch has to handle in the area of 30 amps when all is turned on, give or take. That might well be the reason it balks. If you wired a relay in that circuit the draw would be reduced from 30 amps to a small fraction of an amp. Take that much load off the switch and it might last a long time. Not expensive to do. About $15 and a half hour work. :)
I was thinking two big throw switches. One labeled "laboratory", the other "draw bridge".....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
redwing, that relay idea is awesome, i will go for it as soon as i install the switch. im am about to take of the fairing right now for the paint job, so it will be perfect timing. ill let yall know if i run into any problems along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
so i installed the new switch but i still have the same problem, in fact its even worse. any suggestions? i already cleaned the connection port to the switch.
 
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