[DaveO430]

IT IS NOT THE SWITCH........ Do you maybe have a high wattage headlight bulb in it?

 

[crimsonwing]

IT IS NOT THE SWITCH........ Do you maybe have a high wattage headlight bulb in it?

you're totally right, it is not the switch. I remember I changed bulb a while back, maybe a few years ago now, I don't remember what the wattage was. I wonder why it would cause problems now? or what else could it be?

 

[DaveO430]

Your charging system is not keeping up with the power requirement of the lights.

 

[crimsonwing]

i see. I have the poorboy set up, so that shouldnt be an issue. unless there is something wrong with the setup itself. Now that you mention the headlight, one of the two small helper lights located on the side of the headlight is no longer working. Would this be it? i'm not sure if the bulb is dead or there is a damaged wire somewhere.

 

[DaveO430]

i see. I have the poorboy set up, so that shouldnt be an issue. unless there is something wrong with the setup itself. Now that you mention the headlight, one of the two small helper lights located on the side of the headlight is no longer working. Would this be it? i'm not sure if the bulb is dead or there is a damaged wire somewhere.

No, the small bulb not working is not the problem. The alternator should be able to keep the voltage up but probably not at idle. Pull the headlight fuse and see what happens with the voltage.

 

[crimsonwing]

I did as you said and pulled the headlight fuse and the voltage jumped from 10.8 to 11.1. I left the bike running for another 5 minutes or so and the voltage never dropped, neither did it go up anymore. what does this mean?

 

[DaveO430]

I did as you said and pulled the headlight fuse and the voltage jumped from 10.8 to 11.1. I left the bike running for another 5 minutes or so and the voltage never dropped, neither did it go up anymore. what does this mean?

If your volt meter is correct it means your alternator is not healthy.

 

[crimsonwing]

my voltmeter works for sure. hmmmm, are there any other possibilities or do you think it is for sure that? if it is for sure that, would it help if I clean it? im thinking a whole bunch of grime got in there.

 

[DaveO430]

my voltmeter works for sure. hmmmm, are there any other possibilities or do you think it is for sure that? if it is for sure that, would it help if I clean it? im thinking a whole bunch of grime got in there.

I don't know for sure, I'm not there to look at it but it doesn't seem to be charging for whatever reason. Take it off and to an alternator repair shop to have it tested. If it tests good then perhaps there is something wrong with the wiring.

 

[AZgl1800]

interesting. my charge never went above 11.8 or so. and when it was dropping it went from the 11's down the the 6's in about 3 minutes.

Could this still be the same thing? If so, am I ok now?

I have reading thru parts of this thread, and no where did I see where you tell us what year, and model bike this is??

does it have a Poor boy alternator installed, or does it still have the OEM Stator on the engine?
We need to get your bike stated in the Signature so folks can quit guessing what you have?

the few scattered posts here indicate insufficient testing to determine what is actually going on. and this thread has been going on for some years now, are you still fighting an original issue, or a New issue?

Please take the time to describe exactly what bike you have, and what kind of charging system you have? You mention taking it to a store to have the battery "charged"..... a minimal charge over an hour or two is NOT a good charge, and does not give us adequate information as the " current condition of the battery ".

when the bike is not being used, you should have a BATTERY TENDER connected to the battery at all times, infrequent charges will not keep the battery in good condition.

 

[crimsonwing]

oops. I have and 1984 goldwing 1200 interstate. i do currently have the poorboy installed and a brand new battery. This seems to be a new issue. the last issue was a faulty ignition switch, and this seems to be the alternator? or could it still be the switch? the new ignition switch is connected to the old one because the new switch is from a newer model wing which no longer uses the additional wiring that the 84 does, so I had to use part of the old switch to connect the red plug for my tail lights if I remember right.

any questions for me?

 

[DaveO430]

or could it still be the switch?

As I said, NO it is not the switch. If the engine runs and all the lights work how could it possibly be the switch?

 

[crimsonwing]

I was thinking that because the main switch is not faulty, the electronics still work, but since the old faulty switch is still connected to the electrical system, there could be a leak in power somewhere from the old switch. maybe that makes no sense but it was just what I was thinking at the moment.

 

[AZgl1800]

why, would you leave the old switch hooked up?
it should have been trashed in file 13.

 

[crimsonwing]

unfortunately my tail lights do not work unless the old switch is hooked up. the newer model replacement switch doesnt have the headlight plug, hence, I need the old switch to complete the circuit

 

[Bryanlj]

To state the obvious my answer would be get the correct switch

 

[crimsonwing]

i will search online to see what I can find. is there a known aftermarket switch that i can buy? I just want a brand new switch to avoid problems.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

When I was looking on-line for a switch for the '87, all I found was '84 switches. Wasn't that long ago.

 

[crimsonwing]

thanks dennis, I will definitely try and find a brand new aftermarket one first.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

The only aftermarket one I found was for the later years and sold by Sabre Cycle.