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Hi I am new here, joined because I recently purchased a 84 interstate from a friend of a friend. The Bike sat for 5 years (hence the name moldwing) and has its share of gremlins now. Most I have been able to diagnose and repair on my own w/ the help of my clymer's manual. I have a problem though that has no reference in my manual and I am stumped. There is no resistance @ my rear brake pedal and consequently no braking. I spoke w/ the previous owner and when he rode the bike to my home he said it operated fine. when I apply the brake it goes straight to the floorboard (clunk). The reservoir is full and fluid looks clean and clear. I see no evidence of a fluid leak anywhere. I have considered trying to bleed the brakes but am hesitant to waste my time there as there is NO resistance on the pedal other than the return spring. It will not pump up to a firm feel and does not in my mind classify as a spongy feel to the pedal. There is just nothing there. I don't know where to go from here and have not the money or the desire to throw money at it until I get lucky and fix the problem. I am hoping that someone here will be able to help me. I'm sure there is something that I am not checking that someone is going to make me feel stupid when they mention it but I am ready for that, so bring it on. Thanks in advance.

Nick
 

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i just bought an '84 gl1200I last week and had the same problem. I used a hand bleeder and a friend to flush and bleed the system and they work great now. good luck!

Todd
'84 GW 1200I
'02 VX1800R/S
 

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The 1200 rear brake is a real PITA to bleed. I tried several times, and finally put speed bleeders on the right front and rear (Honda connected them together for some unknown reason) and the brake line from the rear master cylinder runs UPHILL. Easy to get air trapped in there. After $30 worth of speed bleeders, I was able to properly bleed the system, and had brakes, sort of. Now it turns out the primary seal in the master cylinder is leaking (internally) and the cylinder will have to be rebuilt. The brakes work well enough to stop, but the pedal slowly goes all the way down if you hold your foot on it. Mine came with a heel and toe shifter and brake pedal, and floorboards. Made the bike very difficult to ride. I swapped all that for stock pegs, a stock shifter, and stock brake pedal MUUUUUCH better. I plan to convert the brakes to a standard setup, with the lever operating both front discs, and the pedal operating the rear disc, just like motorcycles were intended to be. All it will take is a little replumbing, and I have the parts.
 

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You may need to rebuild your master cylinder if you can't get the brakes to bleed. It is a bit tricky to bleed the back brake with it's link to the front caliper. It's recommended to bleed the front caliper first then finish off with the rear. Once I have bleed the brakes the best I can and can get a firm pedal, I will block the pedal down over night to let the last bit of air to work itself out of the system.

The linked brakes actually work pretty good. The system applies "extra" front braking when needed (when applying more pressure to the rear brake peddle). The system works just as good as a "normal" system and in some cases better.
 

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i loved the linked brake system. just press the peddle and and get even, smoth braking action. when you need the extra, use the hand brake. I've found front only systems harder to modulate and lots of front end dive. just my two cents, go with what works for you.

easy riding
 

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Never had a problem bleeding any of the brakes and clutch in the 26 years I have had the bike.
Do it like the manual says.
Sometimes on the clutch and front masters, air may get trapped but it is a simple procedure to remove the air.
Never ever had a problem with the unified system.

But I also like the speed bleeders too
 

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Just save your self some head ache

go buy all the software for the mastercylinders and the calipers and rebuild them.

use a vacum pump to bleed the the lines

be sure to make sure you have liquid in the mastercylinder before you take it off the bench.

this will be a fun time for you. getting your hands dirty. be sure to use a wrench for removing hydraulic lines so you don't round the corners on the fittings.

when cleaning the calipers be sure to use a good scribe to get into all the recesses. use good brake cleaner. light brass wire brush to clean the parts.

be sure to keep things in order.

and use a lot of Pateints (sp) and beer or scotch or what ever flavor you need to stay calm and collected. :needahug:
 

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Just save your self some head ache

go buy all the software for the mastercylinders and the calipers and rebuild them.

use a vacum pump to bleed the the lines

be sure to make sure you have liquid in the mastercylinder before you take it off the bench.

this will be a fun time for you. getting your hands dirty. be sure to use a wrench for removing hydraulic lines so you don't round the corners on the fittings.

when cleaning the calipers be sure to use a good scribe to get into all the recesses. use good brake cleaner. light brass wire brush to clean the parts.

be sure to keep things in order.

and use a lot of Pateints (sp) and beer or scotch or what ever flavor you need to stay calm and collected. :needahug:
 
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