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The problem is NOT the battery, otherwise it wouldn't have ran as long as it did. If the charging system was working it would have made the trip anyway.
 

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It would be a good idea for anyone buying ANY used Gold Wing without a voltmeter to take their own voltage tester along with them and check at time of purchase.
gumbyred
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The problem is NOT the battery, otherwise it wouldn't have ran as long as it did. If the charging system was working it would have made the trip anyway.
I think you might be partially right...

Update: I finally got a chance to check the battery today (It's been raining like Noah might stop by!).. Two dead cells... I just returned it to the store the PO got it from and they exchanged it for me under warranty.. a bit of good luck for a change. After charging, I'll stick it in the bike and start the voltage tests... wish me luck Wingers!

Ride Safe,
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #25
At this point I would not spend another penny till I tested the stator.
I'm in complete agreement. I'll run the voltage tests when the rain stops and, the highway gods willing, I'll have addressed the issues and can complete my tuneup and ride :grin3:

Otherwise, it's a poorboy conversion for me... Already emailed Don and all I need is the mounting / pulley kit, so I'm prepared to do that if necessary... Besides, that would give me a good excuse to pull the carbs and give them a good cleaning.. timing belts too!

I want to thank everybody again for the help and suggestions.. I'll never crack a repair manual again without getting feedback from the forums.

Ride Safe!
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Finally got to do the tests...

Looks like the stator is bad.

A-B 8.8
A-C 6.8
B-C 10.1

Tested with voltmeter set to ACV 750...

Also tested regulator output... it matched battery output which slowly decreased as the bike ran...
Tested across the battery terminals before start 13.2
After start at IDLE 12.64
Engine choked to 3000 RPM (No extra hands, lol) 12.60 and falling slowly....

She's definitely running off battery.

Cut and soldered stator wires and cleaned up regulator harness (tried both original and aftermarket regulators).

Is there any place besides the 3 yellow plug next to the battery (removed and fixed) that could cause stator output to be low without the stator being bad? Another wire plug, jump, splice maybe? Or with the above info, does it sound like I'll be investing in the poorboy conversion (I will not go through the trouble of changing the stator with a good quality part that will require pulling the engine and spending almost as much, just to have to do it again down the road)?

Thank you for the advice... just wish I had guys like you close enough to give me some hands on help!
Scott
 

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did you check the stator output with the wires from the stator disconnected from the regulator?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
did you check the stator output with the wires from the stator disconnected from the regulator?
Yes, I followed the stator test instructions posted in several places on the forum... even thought, maybe my voltmeter is wrong... changed the battery, checked again.

then I changed the voltmeter setting from VAC 750 to VAC 200, thinking I had the setting wrong... no difference.

I've pretty much resigned myself to the poorboy mod (which I wanted to do anyway so I could dress up the bike even more)...

Besides, after watching a video on engine removal.. I'm positive that the conversion is not only easier for a one man job, but better for the bike in the long run.

Thanks!

Ride Safe,
Scott
 

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Hi Nitewing74,
PO's without them, we wouldn't have second hand "bargains"!?
I was always the nice honest guy when selling and took everyone at their word when buying. My perception changed when I became a bike trader for a few years. I now understand that when buying you must assume everything they say is "embellished" and only believe your eyes not your ears. When you trade Bikes the PO problem becomes magnified, that's why you get such a poor trade in on bikes as the trader has to fix things. Get your bike fixed and enjoy it, it would have cost more from a dealer so don't sweat the small stuff. My own Goldie imported from USA to UK, has issues but I fell for the bling, almost new look. Have you fixed yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hi Nitewing74,
PO's without them, we wouldn't have second hand "bargains"!?
I was always the nice honest guy when selling and took everyone at their word when buying. My perception changed when I became a bike trader for a few years. I now understand that when buying you must assume everything they say is "embellished" and only believe your eyes not your ears. When you trade Bikes the PO problem becomes magnified, that's why you get such a poor trade in on bikes as the trader has to fix things. Get your bike fixed and enjoy it, it would have cost more from a dealer so don't sweat the small stuff. My own Goldie imported from USA to UK, has issues but I fell for the bling, almost new look. Have you fixed yours?
Working on it :grin3:
 

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Not being a trouble maker, but you sound to be handy at
working on your m/c. I am wondering; why spend $600 + on
Don's Poorboy Kit? Yes, Don's Kit is great.... and he offers a
good product... BUT many have been able to do the
Poorboy Alternator Change out for less than - $275-$375...
After reading your posting, I am finishing
my Poorboy Alternator Change tomorrow so I checked my
parts cost with a 70amp Denso One Wire Mini Alternator which
will give me wayyyyy more ability to add all the fun items one
could think of. (my time is free as I like the personal touch).
Took me five days >:) . (I'm slow)--- TOTAL COST
$344.37 which for me and my co-rider (wife)
$255.63 for our next trip on our '84 GL1200I
 

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Not being a trouble maker, but you sound to be handy at
working on your m/c. I am wondering; why spend $600 + on
Don's Poorboy Kit? Yes, Don's Kit is great.... and he offers a
good product... BUT many have been able to do the
Poorboy Alternator Change out for less than - $275-$375...
After reading your posting, I am finishing
my Poorboy Alternator Change tomorrow so I checked my
parts cost with a 70amp Denso One Wire Mini Alternator which
will give me wayyyyy more ability to add all the fun items one
could think of. (my time is free as I like the personal touch).
Took me five days >:) . (I'm slow)--- TOTAL COST
$344.37 which for me and my co-rider (wife)
$255.63 for our next trip on our '84 GL1200I
I just want to chime in on this, please read this thread.
it has a lot of great pictures.

it was made from scratch!!!

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/633841-wes-s-gl1100-alternator-poor-boy-conversion.html
 

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I just want to chime in on this, please read this thread.
it has a lot of great pictures.

it was made from scratch!!!
I beg to differ on the "made from scratch".
The major cost of the conversion from Don is the pulley and Wes never, as far as I've seen, revealed the cost of his.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Not being a trouble maker, but you sound to be handy at
working on your m/c. I am wondering; why spend $600 + on
Don's Poorboy Kit? Yes, Don's Kit is great.... and he offers a
good product... BUT many have been able to do the
Poorboy Alternator Change out for less than - $275-$375...
After reading your posting, I am finishing
my Poorboy Alternator Change tomorrow so I checked my
parts cost with a 70amp Denso One Wire Mini Alternator which
will give me wayyyyy more ability to add all the fun items one
could think of. (my time is free as I like the personal touch).
Took me five days >:) . (I'm slow)--- TOTAL COST
$344.37 which for me and my co-rider (wife)
$255.63 for our next trip on our '84 GL1200I
While I might be in agreement about the cost of doing it yourself, for me it comes down to tools and materials. Frankly, I just don't have the tools, materials, or even the best location to fabricate everything myself. And to make matters worse, I don't know anybody that does either. I thank you for the compliments but I just don't have the resources to make this happen.
 
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