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Hi my Dad just recently purchased a 84 Goldwing with 30,000 originall K on it, the bike is absolutley immaculate. However we were told when he purchased it that the stator was recently replaced with a HD one. The bike ran perfectly up untill this weekend, stopped to get gas and tried to fire it the 50a fuse on starter solenoid has corroded and popped.

Stranded roadside he popped a paper clip on the fuse links to get it running and drive home. Consequently it BBQ'd the starter solenoid, I managed to revive it with an inline spade fuse to get him home.

After I installed fuse it seemed to be fine I have ordered a new solenoid and have read your forums thoroughly and found a lot of great info regarding stator wiring etc..

Any other thoughts on what I should be looking for would be greatly appreciated.

BTW this bike has 64 Christmas lights on it which probably contributed to some of his woes, however he has only had them on once while driving at 3000 rpm.

Thanks in advance.
Matt
 

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ROX wrote:
Hi my Dad just recently purchased a 84 Goldwing with 30,000 originall K on it, the bike is absolutley immaculate. However we were told when he purchased it that the stator was recently replaced with a HD one. The bike ran perfectly up untill this weekend, stopped to get gas and tried to fire it the 50a fuse on starter solenoid has corroded and popped.

Stranded roadside he popped a paper clip on the fuse links to get it running and drive home. Consequently it BBQ'd the starter solenoid, I managed to revive it with an inline spade fuse to get him home.

After I installed fuse it seemed to be fine I have ordered a new solenoid and have read your forums thoroughly and found a lot of great info regarding stator wiring etc..

Any other thoughts on what I should be looking for would be greatly appreciated.

BTW this bike has 64 Christmas lights on it which probably contributed to some of his woes, however he has only had them on once while driving at 3000 rpm.
Matt, that isn't a starter solenoid it is a starter relay (solenoids are mounted on the starter & move the drive into engagement).

Those red wire connections were probably fried long before you made your field repair. Adding that spade type fuseholder is the best long term repair that you could probably do & will keep the problem from appearing at a later time.

If the problem is just with the red wire terminals at the starter relay then your starter relay is probably still good (the actual wires for relay actuation are around the rear farther).

The best thing to do is: Cut both red wires back until you have clean solid wire, then hook both red wires together, then install a 30 amp sealed automotive spade type fuse holder with one pig tail soldered to those 2 red wires & on the other fuse pig tail solder on a ring terminal then hook it directly to the positive battery post under the retaining screw. Use splice clips to crimp the wires before soldering & cover all connections with heat shrink tubing, then cover all exposed wires with black convoluted wire covering.

Once all wired per above fill the open cavities in the starter relay with silicone sealer to prevent water entry.

Twisty

 

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Make sure the 3 pin stator connector under the right side cover has been replaced by soldering the wires together.

Clean the new solenoid with vinger water and then cover it with DieElectric grease. The solenoid is to close to the battery and that adds to corrosion which causes the solinoid connector to drop way to much voltage this causes heat in the connector and drag on the starter.
 

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My bad, I thought that thing resembled a ford starter solenoid, and thanks for the advise on hard wiring the stator harness that is the first order of business tonight.

The piece that burnt is to the left of the fuse link in your picture that the main positive lead from battery bolts to with 4 field wires on the top and a flat exposed 50a plate fuse screwed to the front of it, I just called my parts guy back and reordered the correct piece...thanx..now seeing that it had a 50a fuse is the 30a enough to hold it??

O and red wires are ok not even heat discoloured it was the area around the 50a plate fuse that burned on front of relay..

Appreciate it much.
Thanks again
Matt
 
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Hey ROX :waving: Welcome to the Forum and visit often. :clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 

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ROX wrote:
My bad, I thought that thing resembled a ford starter solenoid, and thanks for the advise on hard wiring the stator harness that is the first order of business tonight.

Appreciate it much.
Thanks again
Matt

I think this is just a terminolgy problem. I have heard both types of starter engagement componets refered to as solenoids and as relays. What do the europeans call it.
 

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Twisty did however know exactly what I was on about...its in the picture :D

I am just a little worried problem may have been provoked by something other than corrosion.

He had the bike entered in a show this weekend and had the seat off detailing it that was the first place I looked for pinched wires thinking it was a little coincidental.

Glad it happened after the show he took first place in the metric cruiser class...!!
 

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ROX wrote:
Twisty did however know exactly what I was on about...its in the picture :D

I am just a little worried problem may have been provoked by something other than corrosion.
Rox, it usually isn't a corrosion (well not a moisture type anyhow) problem on those starter relay connections.

The 2 red wires enter the fuse holder part of the starter relay where they hook to the fuse part of the relay with push on type terminals (down in the little cavities). Due to the high current loads those terminals carry they tend to oxidise & burn. Once they start to burn (even a little) the resistance goes way up thenthey really burn & melt the plastic covering the terminals.I have seen that plastic melt enough to ooze out the sides of the cavities.

Sometimes the service technicians pack those terminal areas with dielectric grease to prevent further oxidation but all that usually does is melt from the heat ofthe already existing resistance then run down into the connections & make the problem worse.

Once those terminal connections burn a little they discolor & then even a new starter relay/fuse holder won't keep the problem from re-occurring.

Adding a SEALED automotive type 30+ amp fuse holder (per my first post) is the best way to keep the problem from re-occurring at a later time.

Twisty
 

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Twisty's right about oxidation or any kind of surface corrosion. If you see any connectors showing discolored metal that's the beginning. If you do come across any like that during maintenance, try scraping the discolored layer off. If you can get it off reassemble with some diaelectric grease, just a light coating on the contacts to help keep the air off. If the discoloration is deep enough that you can't scrape it all off then it's time to replace the connector pin. Once they get hot they usually lose most of their temper so the spring tension weakens which only adds more resistance so they get hotter until... china syndrome
 
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