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According to the procedure for water pump replacement on Goldwing Docs, which I just reviewed, the smaller of the two o-rings ie, the hindmost ring, keeps the oil out, and the larger one keeps water out of the cavity. So your edit is correct.

And I thank you all again for your help. We're heading back to Pennsylvania tomorrow, but will be back to this bike in mid-August.

In the meantime, I'll be looking for o-ring/seal kits, just in case I mashed one (or more), when I replaced the water pump two years ago. I already have new front cover and water pump gaskets. Any suggestions for sources would be welcome Thanks.
Just do not forget to replace the oil pump seal. Get the parts from Honda, don't even think about aftermarket parts for this job.
 

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Looks to me like the o-ring (red arrow) is redundant. The oil pump seal and another o-ring at the front of the pump keep oil out of the void.

Edit; thinking on it more, remembering more, that o-ring does also keep oil out of the void.
:doh: I can't explain how I missed that so many times. Except...

...I recently had another birthday.
Getting old is a .....now I forgot what I was going to say! :ROFL:
 

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Thanks, Smeden, for the good news and the bad news. The bad news is that I should replace the water pump. I doubt that it has more than 200 miles on it, and they're not cheap. I replaced it in 2016, and this bike really doesn't get ridden very much.
You can also reuse your water pump and see how long it will last .
On my Gl1000 is has worked perfect for at least 8 year since i changed out the oil seal and reused the old water pump . BUT i dont ride that bike much and only locally .IF i was using the bike for long distance riding i would have replaced the water pump .
 

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Discussion Starter #26
You can also reuse your water pump and see how long it will last .
On my Gl1000 is has worked perfect for at least 8 year since i changed out the oil seal and reused the old water pump . BUT i dont ride that bike much and only locally .IF i was using the bike for long distance riding i would have replaced the water pump .
That sounds like a good plan for me. I plan to change the oil seal and some o-rings and see how that goes. While I'll be 80 next year, I'm hoping to stay physically (and mentally) fit enough to ride for a few more years. We'll see how that goes too.

Thanks for your contributions to this post.
 

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If you find an issue with the o-ring be it twisted, cut or missing then you might want to decide if you want to replace the oil pump seal. It is a little tricky as you have to drive it in with the lip going against the grain. I always cringe when I have to do this as I tend to have more issues putting them in when I face that type of situation. Of course if there is a stream or washed clean below the seal you have no choice. Just cross your fingers and be careful. :)
 

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If you find an issue with the o-ring be it twisted, cut or missing then you might want to decide if you want to replace the oil pump seal. It is a little tricky as you have to drive it in with the lip going against the grain. I always cringe when I have to do this as I tend to have more issues putting them in when I face that type of situation. Of course if there is a stream or washed clean below the seal you have no choice. Just cross your fingers and be careful. :)
That oil pump seal should be replaced any time you do a water pump.
 

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Normally I would agree with Dave. Pete it is your call. Given your age and ability if you feel confident enough changing it might be best. If it shows no signs of leaking it might not be a bad idea to leave well enough alone. It's a judgement call. If I were 80 and saw no indication that the seal is leaking I would leave it alone. Of course I'm just hoping to make it to 80. My riding days are winding down already. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveO430
That oil pump seal should be replaced any time you do a water pump.

Refresh: We're now in the process of replacing the oil seal and water pump o-rings. The pics below may help to refresh your memory. There was some conversation about whether or not the two o-rings pictured kept the oil out of the cavity of the water-pump. Consensus was that they both did, I think. Bear in mind that the bike has only a couple hundred miles on it since this was done before -- apparently not very well.

Anyway, we've got the engine front cover off, and noticed that the o-ring just outside the oil seal appears loose. That is, it doesn't fill the groove it goes in. You can probably see the space on the picture below.

Do o-rings need to be a tight fit? Maybe I have the wrong 0-ring installed. It's #30 on the parts fiche. Thanks.
 

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just thinking out loud.
I don't think that the O-ring should completely fill up that groove.

If it did, it would not be able to compress down flat against each of the flat surfaces.
It would cause a "bind" due to being "too much rubber" and possibly cause the oil pump to set crooked against the engine's body.
 

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Discussion Starter #34

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveO430
That oil pump seal should be replaced any time you do a water pump.

Refresh: We're now in the process of replacing the oil seal and water pump o-rings. The pics below may help to refresh your memory. There was some conversation about whether or not the two o-rings pictured kept the oil out of the cavity of the water-pump. Consensus was that they both did, I think. Bear in mind that the bike has only a couple hundred miles on it since this was done before -- apparently not very well.

Anyway, we've got the engine front cover off, and noticed that the o-ring just outside the oil seal appears loose. That is, it doesn't fill the groove it goes in. You can probably see the space on the picture below.

Do o-rings need to be a tight fit? Maybe I have the wrong 0-ring installed. It's #30 on the parts fiche. Thanks.
That's fine, it will be crushed in the groove when the cover is on and fill the gap, if it is the right o-ring it should protrude above the surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Neutral light switch problem

I am trying to verify that the change/neutral switch is working correctly before I put the front cover back on this 85 1200A. However, I can't get the neutral light to come on when I turn the "handle" (See pic) on the switch. It flickered once very briefly, but does not come back on.

The fuse is good, and I removed some of the other fuses -- headlight, turn signals, tail light -- to save the battery as I test. Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thanks.
 

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There is very little rotation between on and off for the light on those switches plus the one i worked on et two switches, might have one about but am in UK
 

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Discussion Starter #39
There is very little rotation between on and off for the light on those switches plus the one i worked on et two switches, might have one about but am in UK
Thanks for the quick reply, Bryan. Yes, I am finding out how little rotation is involved. There is a switch for sale on eBay right now.

Did you attempt to take one of these apart? Looks as if it's closed up pretty tight.
 
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