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had the familiar code W on solid, 0 and 3 flashing, replaced the crankshaft NS sensor, bike ran for about 10 seconds and stopped restarted and ran for about 3 seconds and stopped again now won't restart like it ran out of gas. has no codes now. Has someone else had this problem?
 

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Not yet, but I probably will. I have already had about a zillion problems with my 1200LTD
 

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nagger007 wrote:
had the familiar code W on solid, 0 and 3 flashing, replaced the crankshaft NS sensor, bike ran for about 10 seconds and stopped restarted and ran for about 3 seconds and stopped again now won't restart like it ran out of gas. has no codes now. Has someone else had this problem?
Do you have spark? I realize no spark was the original issue, but just wondering if you re-check after part replacement, 10 second run and having bike die. (also HATE to say it but-kill switch?)
 

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Yes I checked for spark again, there was fire at the plugs so I pulled them out thinking it may have flooded and they were black but not gas soaked. I changed them but it made no difference. The kill switch seems to be working because it will turn the fuel pump off and on and it will cut off power to coils when turned off.
 

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You've got fire and you say the fuel pump is working.... How's about disconnecting the fuel pump outlet line and doing the fuel flow test described in the shop manual? Inside the fuel pump feed line is a small cone shaped screen that might be plugged. Just disconnect the feed line at the pump and you'll find it.



Good luck with her!!!
 

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nagger007 wrote:
had the familiar code W on solid, 0 and 3 flashing, replaced the crankshaft NS sensor, bike ran for about 10 seconds and stopped restarted and ran for about 3 seconds and stopped again now won't restart like it ran out of gas. has no codes now. Has someone else had this problem?
i think i would look at the wires for the ns sensor, did you leave them where they could get rubbed?
 

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OK nagger, let's back up. Just to clarify, I wan't to be sure of what's happening. First bike had no spark and had code for NS sensor. You changed the sensor and bike started, ran and then died. Even though bike died you stil have spark at all 4 cylinders and no NS code re-ocurring.
Does that all sound accurate?
 

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If you installed a new NS sensor(rare), the wires are probably backwards. Use a small pin, jewelers screwdriver and figure out how to bend in the lock tab on wire end, pull out of body, then bend the tab back out a bit. Install back into plug body with wires opposite of what they were. Should work a treat now.

Assuming you snagged a new NS sensor. Many of them were built with something wrong inside. Maybe magnet backwards. The wire color code is correct, so it has to be internal on sensor.
 

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Right now I feel a little bit stupid, the crankshaft NS sensor did fix the starting problem. The other thing that baffled me the bike stopped after about 10 seconds just like it ran out of gas. The person I got the bike from tried to start it when I picked it up. What I didn't know was the fuel petcock was turned off. Now that it is running, the left side valves seem a bit noisey at times, goes away and comes back, loud too. I found another problem to fix, the cooling fan does not turn on. I'm hoping this is not going to be an on going problem bike.
 

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JerryH wrote:
Not yet, but I probably will. I have already had about a zillion problems with my 1200LTD
jerry, if you have this problem, turn on the gas:ROFL:



nagger, its entirely possible you may have an exhaust leak, take a look at that, maybe i have missed some prior posts or something but you really dont give us much history on the bike, do you have any history on it? ie. the belts? the oil and its last change?
 

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It sounds like a loose valve rocker and the noise is not there all the time. The bike doesn't skip or smoke when this noise starts but it idles a little fast.As far as history on the bike goes, I don't know much about it. I knew it wouldn't run when I bought it and I know it is due for an oil change. The person I got it from couldn't get it going to take it for service also he couldn't give me any information on the bike.
 

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I would pull the left valve cover and do an inspection of whats underneath. Look for anything obvious etc. Have a helper crank angine with the kill switch in "off" so it won't start. Just use quick bursts of the starter.
As for the cooling fan it gets power at all times originating at fuse #8. The fan is turned on off by the radiator fan temp switch which closes approx 208-216 degrees Farenheit providing a ground path allowing fan to run. Fan temp switch is located on engine behind radiator.
 

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I started the bike today and it ran as quiet as could be not a tick in the engine at all. I found a bad connection at the plug going to the fan but have not repaired it yet and the idle seems to be coming down slowly. I know with some cars there is an idle relearn after a battery disconnect is there anything for this bike?
 
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