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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Symptom: Intermittent. Engine just dies like someone turned the key off. It's been getting worse for months. Instrumentation and lights stay on. Engine will start again right away, with no cool down period like is described with bad pulse generators. Other than that...it runs very well. At 1200rpm the system is at 14.4V

What I've done to find problem:I've by-passed kill switch. I've by-passed clutch switch. Cleaned and reset almost every connector plug that there is. Checked for shorted wires. Installed new battery. Rectifier passed continuity test. Clutch diode passed continuity test.

Yes, it would be better if the thing would not run at all...then the problem could be found. There is no pattern at all here...like ...quits going over rough ground, or only quits while accelerating. Some times it will quit at idle or cruising in any gear at any rpm. :?

A gold star and much thanks to the one to figure this out.
 

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do the 85's use a balast resistor thats bypased when started?
No.

Check the PG connector on the left side of the frame under the shelter for loose connections.
 

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I just resolved a PG problem that didn't match any of the typical symtoms (total shutdown, no warning) on my 86. You can test the resistance at the connector under the false tank. I have a Haynes book that lists the testing procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks very much for all the replies so far. I know the area and will try these tests tomorrow and will let all know how it went....... I have a shop manual so I can find the specs. I'll be in touch...EDIT: To make sure..is this the connector that is supposed to be next to the "dreaded three yellow wires" from the stator?
 

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Vintage Rider
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I absolutely hate "intermittent" problems that checkout fine. One thing for sure is that it is an electrical problem. Nothing in the fuel system I can think of that could cause that. If it is the pulse generators, at least they are easy to get to on the '85 and up.
 

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It aint rocket science
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Even though it does not seem to be heat related, with the engine idling heat up the PG's with a heat gun, If they are iffy the extra heat may push them over the edge and cause a stall.

Then to eliminate a battery supply voltage issue. Find the likely supply voltage to a ignition module, ecm or coil supply connector, whatever the 1200 has and which would cause a stall (coil most likely) and run a jumper wire out to someplace where you can monitor while riding with your DMM connected at all times. If stalling continues and you never lose that supply voltage at least that side can be eliminated. And check your grounds for the major components that might be involved.
 

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It aint rocket science
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And another good thing to try is a wiggle test of wiring.

With the engine idling push and prod the harness all over for a stall.
 

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On older models the base of the ignition switch was prone to loosening and causing intermittents. They are similar, older vs 1200. Try wiggling on the base, where the harness is connected to the ignition switch. There are a few tutorials available to rebuild it. I have been able to disassemble, clean, tighten and drive. For as much work as you may have to go through to get it, you may want to replace it. I was able to find this using the "wiggle test." On the 1000's you can get your arm in and wiggle the right-angle connector that attaches to the base of the switch. Good luck. Been there.
 
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