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1985 - GL1200 Aspencade (a mere "baby" at 35K miles)
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

I'm rebuilding my carbs from my 85 Aspencade GL1200 - CA
I have installed #40 slow jets and #108 Main jets after getting my hands on the drive-ability upgrade document.

1.) I assumed that I should turn my pilot screws in from 3 turns out (CA) to 21/4 turns (49)? Is that correct?
2.) Should I plug/seal all of the CA emission tubes? (ie. Purge Control Valve, vacuum hose to the ignition control unit...)
 

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The vacuum line to the ECM is not an emission device. It has to stay. As for the rest it is up to you. There really is not much there and if left as is will help with the smell of fuel on hot days. Your choice.
The best answer for the low speed adjustment is after you have it running adjust the low speed to get the best idle. Honda wants you to turn them on until you get a 50 RPM "lean drop" for emissions. Might be better to just leave as is. Your choice.
 

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2.) Should I plug/seal all of the CA emission tubes? (ie. Purge Control Valve, vacuum hose to the ignition control unit...)
The purge control just burns the vapors from the tank through the engine, what can it hurt? If you want it to get worse gas mileage & reduce power go ahead an plug the one to the ECU.
 

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1985 - GL1200 Aspencade (a mere "baby" at 35K miles)
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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, I sure don't want to plug that hose to ECM. Thanks!
I think I will leave the emission stuff connected as well.
What about the initial setting for the pilot jets? It is a CA bike so, 3 turns out? I realize I have to do an low speed idle drop adjust...
Just set the floats 7.5mm and tomorrow I will install the carbs.
I still have to do an oil change, since a stuck float valve caused the #4 carb to fill the intake valve with fuel. So I probably have fuel in the oil.
I have also lost the nut from the clamp for the intake tube somewhere along the way!!! ARRRRGH
Yes, the spark plugs where removed. I have searched everyplace for that little *******!
I bought a inexpensive "endoscope camera," and several different magnetic retrieval tools.
I might pull the timing cover and turn the motor a little, but I'm pretty dang sure that nut ain't in there!
I'll probably go buy a shop vac, and rig up something with a small tube and try to SUCK it out.
 

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Maybe instead of 50 rpm lean drop, do a 25. OR just set them so it idles the best. I would not use an arbitrary number of turns. It should be what the bike tells you.

As you open the mixture screws, it feeds an emulsion (gas and air) to the engine, so turning down the idle helps raise the vacuum to suck in more mixture.

David
 

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If everything is in good condition, no vacuum leaks and floats set right, carbs in synch, usually the initial setting is good enough.
 
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