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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:praying:

Prior to doing a lot of front end work on this bike (rebuilt the forks, bleeding the brakes, a new tire and fender dressings) I could totally let got of my handlebars and this bike would stay straight and steady.
Since the rebuild my MPG is really bad (220 miles before 160 miles to a tank now) and if I let got of the handle bars with one hand a slight wobble and if I let go with both the bike is definitely going down. Yet, I feel no wobble/vibration when I am properly placing both hand on the handlebar.
Any ideas? I'm wondering if perhaps a brake is dragging - yet I don't hear anything ???
 

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From my experience the wobble I had on my 84 was the steering stem bearings. Once I tightened them up to factory spec the wobble went away.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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My guess is you miss-aligned the forks. Do you know the procedure to re align them?
Another possibility is you have miss-matched the tires. Even if they are meant to run together as a pair, one new & one old can cause problems. GL12s are very sensitive to tires.
 

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Brake drag.

:praying:

Prior to doing a lot of front end work on this bike (rebuilt the forks, bleeding the brakes, a new tire and fender dressings) I could totally let got of my handlebars and this bike would stay straight and steady.
Since the rebuild my MPG is really bad (220 miles before 160 miles to a tank now) and if I let got of the handle bars with one hand a slight wobble and if I let go with both the bike is definitely going down. Yet, I feel no wobble/vibration when I am properly placing both hand on the handlebar.
Any ideas? I'm wondering if perhaps a brake is dragging - yet I don't hear anything ???
Simple enough to check for brake drag. Put it on the centre stand and spin the wheel. My mate had the wobbles on his 1200 and we changed the rear tyre. After that it was fine. Even though the tyre looked ok ?.
 

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220 miles per tank down to 160? I can't think of anything in the front end but dragging brakes that would cause that, and if the brakes were dragging that bad, they would be red hot, so you would know it. One thing I do know from experience, the 1200 is extremely sensitive to tire pressure, if it gets low it will wobble bad. If the axle went through ok, and the bars seem straight, the forks are likely straight (I have tweaked the forks on many dirt bikes)

While some minor problem with the front end could cause a wobble, I would look elsewhere for the change in fuel consumption. Actually now that I think about it, I don't even see how such a drop is possible. It would either have to be pulling a whopper of a load, going continuously uphill, or riding into one hell of a headwind. If it were rich enough to drop the mileage that far, it probably wouldn't even run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATES:
I noticed the right side axle holder had been installed backwards and was very loose. I reinstalled and tightened to specs. I noticed that the dive setting were not the same. I set both sides to 2.
The next day I noticed the front tire had been installed in the wrong direction. The same axle holder was loose again. I could not break the bead so took the tire back to the same place that installed it. I paid them again to break the bead and reinstall the tire correctly. Brought the tire back found it had not been seated and refilled. I could not get it to seat. Brought it back to the same place and had them seat and fill the tire.
Brought the tire back to my shop and remounted everything AGAIN. However the weather was to severe for a test ride (sleeting and snowing) so I put that off until today.
Went to my shop knowing the bike was road worthy and ready to run.
No Go. It is still wobbling but not as severely. However, after a fifteen mile ride the axle holder is still tight. :)
Back to the "let's try this next board" I guess. :(
 

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Loosen the fork brace.
With the front wheel off the ground, loosen the axle nuts.
Loosen the tree clamps and make sure the forks are completely seated at the top.
Since I wasn't there when you reassembled them, did you remember to reinstall the spring snap ring on the forks? This locates the tubes at top travel.
Re-tighten the tree bolts.
Re_tighten the axle nuts per the book, making sure the arrows face forward and there is a gap at the rear.
Then re-tighten the fork brace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In utilizing the term spring snap ring are you referring to the parts listing item called a circlip? if so, then the answer is definitely a yes.

Tomorrow I shall try your step by step guidance information. I am certainly at a loss at this point.
 

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Loosen the fork brace.
With the front wheel off the ground, loosen the axle nuts.
Loosen the tree clamps and make sure the forks are completely seated at the top.
Since I wasn't there when you reassembled them, did you remember to reinstall the spring snap ring on the forks? This locates the tubes at top travel.
Re-tighten the tree bolts.
Re_tighten the axle nuts per the book, making sure the arrows face forward and there is a gap at the rear.
Then re-tighten the fork brace.

Once it's all loose you want to jounce the front end by pushing down on the handle bars a couple times THEN retighten everything. This will align the forks correctly.
 

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Once it's all loose you want to jounce the front end by pushing down on the handle bars a couple times THEN retighten everything. This will align the forks correctly.
No. Tightening the axle with the brace loose aligns the forks correctly. Then tightening the brace locks everything in place. Per the manual.
All adjustments done with the wheel off the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
UPDATE 4/6/13:
Went to the Church's bike shop today (Again) Put the bike on the center stand placed a lift and a board under the engine and jacked her up probably another three to four inches. Loosened all of the tree screws, removed the brakes, removed the fender and the fender garnish, removed the axle holder, the front wheel and finally the fork stabilizer.
At that point I made absolutely certain that both forks were absolutely level with the fork equalizer (The right fork had been above the equalizer approximately a 32nd of an inch.) Attached the front wheel than held it centered as someone else turned my handlebars left and right a few times then returned them to dead center. I then tightened all six tree screws and removed the tire.
I removed the tire for the sole purpose of ease with the re-installation of the fender and fender garnish, After completing that step I loosely re-installed the front tire and then the brake system and speedometer sending unit. At this point I tightened the axle holder by the service manual technique and specs. Finally the fork stabilizer was installed and tightened.
The result? 98% of the wobble is gone! :) Went home picked up my Lady and rode. We rode the bike to church this evening for our campfire fellowship/celebration and just got back home. The ride was fantastic again.
Now I remember why I love my Gold Wing. Tomorrow ride it to church and then to a GWRRA officer's planning meeting.
I am guessing but I think perhaps the tiny bit of wobble remaining may be a result of riding with the tire backwards so I am not going to worry about it for now.
Thank you to everyone out there who provided me with thoughts, guidance and motivation. :)

Dave H...
Professor
 
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