Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

1 - 20 of 99 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have gotten pretty far into the project so I thought I would start a build topic on it.

The wife has wanted her own Goldwing for a while but is much too short to hold one up on her own, so we figured a trike would do the trick, I had also been looking for a new project.

Before I started into this project I looked at many Trikes mostly from kits professionally installed and looked through all the Trike build projects posted here and on other sites that I could find, and have stolen ideas from most of them along with a few ideas of my own.

I want to give many thanks for all the inspiration from the all the builders and posters of these excellent projects.

I want to give a special mention to Scoto1, for his excellent Trike build topics, insight and pictures. When I run into an issue I can usually look at Scoto1’s builds and see he has already solved it for me.

This is what I started with a 1985 GL1200 Aspencade with right around 50k miles on it.





Although this bike photographs good it was in pretty bad shape, it had been sitting uncovered half in and half out of a carport untouched for 5 or 6 years and was greatly deteriorated. Believe it or not I removed over 50 separate Bee’s nests.

The previous owner had bought a GL1800 and never touched the 1200 again.

I did not want to take a nice bike and destroy it if my build went horribly wrong.

With approval from the wife we made a deal for $300 and I had my project bike.

The Carbs were hopelessly seized up and needed to be rebuilt and the old gas drained out of the tank.



I had to pull the brake calipers off before I could even move the bike and then rebuilt the front ones.

All the hydraulic clutch components had to be rebuilt, the fork seals replaced.



The coils were cracked and needed to be replaced, but finally she started and came back to life. I was able to drive her around the block a couple of times before tearing her down for the conversion to a Trike.

This is how she looked on the last ride as a two wheeler.



Twins, This is the Trike project bike next to the 85 Aspencade that I ride all the time. One of the reasons I chose this bike for the project is these two bikes are almost exactly identical.



The teardown has started.



Lots of parts to remove. I plan on using the trunk on the finished Trike.



After much research I decided on a 96 Mustang rearend, the gear ratio, 2.73 is almost the same as the Goldwing’s 2.83 and I was able to get it at a junkyard with all the disk brake parts still attached for $75.



This is the rear end after I cut all the mustang mounting brackets off with an angle grinder, set in place to measure for shortening.



The rims I picked up were 15 inch rims off of a 99 ford explorer same bolt pattern and would fit over the brakes. To maintain the appropriate ratio the tire diameter needs to be about 25 ½ inches. My tire guy looked and found some nice tires that are 25 ½ inches and fit on 15 inch rims.



I will try and post some more pictures and progress soon.

As with most of my projects I can only work on them as time allows and most times not much time is allowed.

Any Comments and helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.

Peter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
imported post

I spent a lot of time measuring and measuring again. The problem is there are not that many symmetrical points to key off of when trying to get the differential centered according to the drive shaft on the bike, and then to figure out where the new center point will be for the rear end. After making sure everything was level and Square I determined that the new center point of the rearend would be 4 inches to the left of the center of the drive shaft flange. Based off that measurement with the tires and rims mounted. I wanted an overall width from outside of one tire to the outside of the other tire to be 55 inches. I needed 4 5/8 inches removed from the left side and 10 ¾ inches removed from the right side.

After opening the differential and removing the C clips and pulling the axels.



I called a couple of local machine shops and ended up using Scoto1’s suggestion and shipped the axels to Moser engineering.

$120 for shortening and resplining the axles and another $20 for shipping.



Moser did an excellent job and I had the axels back less than a week after shipping them.

Now that I have the axles back the fun part begins, shortening the rearend housing.

Peter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
imported post

I strapped the rearend down to the Bike lift and laid out the cut lines

I had seen many different ways of cutting the housing. I opted to use a pipe cutter.



This turned out be a good choice. The cuts were perfectly smooth and straight and beveled enough to allow good penetration while welding.



Anyone for some chopped rearend?



I used two pieces of angle iron one on the top and one on the bottom clamped in place with two large hose clamps on each side to align the pieces then I tested the axel in place to assure everything was aligned before tack welding the ends in place. I checked the axels and alignment after tack welding as well.



The axels fit and all the measurements looked good so I welded it all up solid.



The next step will be to fabricate and weld the swingarm extensions and weld the bushing mounts to the rearend.

Peter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,947 Posts
imported post

"Anyone for some chopped rearend?"
Call me when you start the BBQ.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
imported post

Between work and the Grandkids visiting it has been almost two weeks since I was able to work on the trike.

Saturday morning while I was watching two parents load four children into a minivan for a 12 hour ride from Florida to Mississippi, it occurred to me that there was almost as much work as they did prepping the Space Shuttle for a mission into outer space complete with holding the countdown at least three times. Finally the countdown was completed and the minivan was cleared for launch. With a successful lift off of the Minivan I was given clearance from the tower to go to the shop and get a little work done.

Most of the time Saturday was spent measuring and measuring again and then cross measuring just to make sure.

Previously I had cut and drilled four 2 ¾ x 4 mounting tabs out of ¼ inch plate to mount the original mustang bushing to the axle tube.

I cut the 2 x 2 x 3/16 square tubing to the right size and angle, then cut the mustang control arm after checking everything to be level and checking the measurements once again I was able to get the right side control arm tack welded in place. Tonight with a little luck I should be able to get the left side tacked in place.





Peter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
imported post

Last night’s fabrication.

I got the rest of the left control arm tacked in place.



Now I need to run the supports from the top bushings to the swing arm.



On the left side I was thinking of running the support made out of the smaller 1 ½ square tubing up and attaching to the end of the old swing arm.

On the right, I don’t know. It really doesn’t line up with anything. Maybe the left support is all I need?



I also need to consider when I need to remove the rearend. If I pull the bushing bolts I should be able to pull the swing arm up away from the rearend.

What do you think?



You can see the smaller Square tubing in the back of the last photo



]

Peter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
imported post

I finished fabricating and tacking the Swingarm together.

I decided to go with the single upper support, there is definitely enough strength to keep the differential from twisting.

When I was done fabricating I did a mockup of the body pieces and took a few pictures.



The last thing I did on Saturday was remove the swingarm from the bike so I could weld it up solid.

Sunday I spent most of the day welding and then grinding off some of the nastier looking stuff. It’s welded up pretty solid.



When I was done welding and grinding I propped the swing arm up to paint it.

One of the Guy’s from one of the other shops walked up and was looking at it strangely and finally asked, “What is it? Looks like some sort of metal plant.” I just don’t know how he could not know what this is?



After it was dry I reinstalled it on the bike.



Now I need to work on the Driveshaft. After reading Scoto1’s build I have been trying to locate the front driveshaft from a 97 or newer F150 4X4, I called a local junkyard and they told me on the phone they had the driveshaft, So I went over at lunch today when I got there they told me I had to go look in the yard and they had no F150 4X4’s.

What a waste of time……..

A guy on Craig’s List says he has one, I am going to check it out tomorrow.

I photo shopped one of the pictures to try and see what the finished Trike should look like.

This is my Mockup of what it should look like when done.






Peter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
imported post

kevin wrote:
Awesome! Do you think a gl 1100 would work with a rearend geared to 3.23?

It looks like the stock Gear ratio for an 1100 is 3.09 for an 80/81 or 3.10 for an 82/83.

So a rearend ratio of 3.23 should work without any issues at all as long as you keep the outside diameter of the tire close to the original tire.

On the 1200 the outside diameter of the original tire is close to 25 1/2 inches I do not know what the outside diameter of an 1100 rear tire is.



Peter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
imported post

just found this looks familiar in a familiar kinda way. nice job. just make sure of your welding, it's the most important part.

i also laid a piece of plate on top of my joints for extra strength. i your welds are good and think you may not need to but if you ground a lot off you may want to plate it. just saying.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
imported post

skoto1 wrote:
just found this looks familiar in a familiar kinda way. nice job. just make sure of your welding, it's the most important part.

i also laid a piece of plate on top of my joints for extra strength. i your welds are good and think you may not need to but if you ground a lot off you may want to plate it. just saying.


Scoto1,


I had considered addinga gusset plate for strength as well. I also considered adding an extra piece of square tubing (and still might)that would act as a gusset between the two legs of the swingarm overlapping the new pieces on the bottom.

WhatI ended up doing was layering the welds with three or four overlapping layers on the high stress areas where the Square tubing joins the swingarm. I ground off very little, only some of the nastier looking splatter from the arc welding for cosmetic reasons, it is without a doubt plenty strong.

I appreciate the comments and concern, it is a good thing to have someone with your experience looking over my shoulder. I have watched and read with interest all of your builds and have incorporated many of your ideas and concepts into my build. As I stated earlier in this thread when I run into an issue I can usually look at you’re builds and see that you have already solved it for me.

Peter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
imported post

Anyone know about driveshaft U-joint alignment?

Now that I have two U-joints instead of the one.

On most cars they are aligned to each other.

In some of the posts I have found in the searches on the subject, Mototrike says to align them 90 degrees plus one tooth off from each other.

Or does iteven matter?

Any thoughts or suggestions on this subject would be welcome.

Peter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
imported post

i put mine like they came off. the joints where opposite of each other. 90 degrees sounds right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
imported post

I’ve got the driveshaft all put together.

Just like promised the end of the Goldwing driveshaft squeezed into the F150 driveshaft just like it was made for it, then I welded a bead around the edge fusing the two together.



I’ve the top mount for the shocks pieced together.

I am still considering adding some more bracing to this piece.

I placed the seat on top just to make sure I could still mount the seat on the original mounting points.



Then I tacked the lower shock Mounts to the rear end.



Now I need to tear everything back down to weld it up solid and paint everything.

I also need to unbolt the rearend from the swingarm to install the driveshaft.

I will take Scoto1’s suggestion and install the driveshaft with the U-joints off from each other by 90 degrees.

Then when it all goes back together it will be standing on all three and I might get to drive it around the parking lot WOOOOHOOOOO.

Peter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,947 Posts
imported post

I would add a brace from the shock bar down to the lower part of the frame.
Looking good.:waving:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
imported post

i would also ad a brace on each side of the shock bracket. maybe middle ways back and then down to the rear of the bike frame to beef that up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
imported post

I was thinking of adding something like this on both sides.
Made out of the same 2 inch square tubing as the rest of the upper shockmount.




Peter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
imported post

yes that'll work.
 
1 - 20 of 99 Posts
Top